rayvaflav

My '66 Coupe has the OEM Delco-Moraine four wheel disc brakes, as does every other '66 Corvette out there. I don't have the optional power brakes, just the gigantic non-power master cylinder stopping this thing. And it stops pretty well. I have the OEM power steering and adding power brakes and a '67 dual master cylinder is an easy add-on, I might do that at some point. But I see that a lot of aftermarket "upgrade kits" are available for all four corners, usually a set of aluminum Wilwood calipers and slotted/drilled/vented/etc. rotors sold as a kit. Upgrade, I am curious about that. Certainly a lighter caliper would put a little less rotating mass on those rear half-shaft and rear wheel bearings but I'm not really sure how much of an improvement that would be and If it is something that I would notice in my lifetime.

I am running the OEM 15x6 knock-offs, I don't want to run any larger diameter wheel. My question is this:

Have any of you done this, "upgrading" from your OEM Delco-Moraine brake calipers and stock rotors ?

And if you have … What sort of improvements have you noticed ? Less brake fade, better pedal feel, etc. or just simply that you can now see a different color caliper when you remove the wheels. I assume that what was good in 1966 could probably be improved but I would like to know from the folks that have taken the plunge the real honest outcome from those of you who have spent that loot.

Thanks in advance,
Ray

BADBIRDCAGE

rayvaflav

My phrasing might not have been my best on this one, there may have been some late night Scotch involved. I should not have used the term "rotating mass" regarding the calipers, simply additional weight at the wheel side of the axles. Here's one of those kits that I mentioned:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WILWOOD-DIS...8AAOxy4dNSzcQv

Have any of you put this on your car ?

Ray

BADBIRDCAGE

rayvaflav

Any of you out there in the Midyear world that have done this disc brake replacement procedure that can offer a first-hand opinion ?

Ray

SWCDuke

The OE C2 brake system is way overkill, even by today's standards. The only "problem" is that pedal effort is high without a vacuum booster. Some guys get used to I, and some want more modern pedal effort so the solution is to install an OE booster. "Upgrading" the disks and calipers, other than maybe a slight reduction in weight will do nothing but drain your wallet.

Tires grip is what ultimately stops the car and the typical rock hard, low speed rated, "van tires" that most guys run will only generate maybe 0.9g under the best of conditions, and with or without power brakes the OE system will lock the brakes. And when that's the case, you have more than enough brake. It would be virtually impossible to "fade" the OE disk system in normal road use, and they are adequate for racing with semi-metallic pads in place of OE or current ceramic replacements, which are more than adequate for road use.

Duke

68hemi

Factoid

GTOguy

This is dead on. The limitations to a C2 braking system are the tires, not the brakes. The reason new cars have the huge calipers and rotors is because they also have huge tires and wheels. As for brakes, a locked up 215/75/15 tire will skid just as well with stock brakes as it will with huge brakes. Save your time and money at the wheels and limit yourself to a dual master cylinder and you will be safe as you can be in one of these cars.

68hemi

Sundevil64

Out of curiosity why do you want to upgrade the factory disc brakes? They work really well with the four piston set up and have tremendous mass for heat. My 64 was upgraded from drum brakes, I get that as I would have done the same. I've been rolling well in excess of 100mph and the brakes stop fantastically.

You could use a more aggressive pad if you autocross but I don't see many guys running these classics hard unless they are vintage racing.

427425

Hi, Ray. I have a 65 convertible that I have made into a 'restomod', of sorts. It is a rust free California car that I put on a diet. Big block with alum heads, 5 speed Tremec, stainless headers and exhaust, Dewitt aluminum radiator w/dual fans, Van Steel coilovers with offset control arms, and Wilwood calipers with dual master cylinder. Also has FR r&p and fixed C6 ZO6 seats. I have 7" front and 8" rear wheels with 235/60/15 and 245/60/15 tires. The car drives great and and stops great. I used the MC with 7/8" bore size to decrease the pedal pressure and it works great. The folks at Wildwood wanted me to use the 1", but had me talk with an engineer and he agreed with the weight reduction on the car, that I shouldn't have any issues with the smaller MC. I used the pads that Wilwood recommended and have been very pleased with the results. I had SS sleeved calipers(Lonestar) and a 67 manual dual MC before, and the pedal required much more effort than the Wilwood system requires. Sorry to be so long winded, but I wanted you to know about the weight reduction in my car, as your car may require a different MC if your car weighs over 3000#. Good luck if you decide to go with Wilwood, as I have been very satisfied with mine.

rayvaflav

Thanks so much for your response, this is the exact first hand opinion that I was looking for. Glad to hear that you had a positive outcome with this setup. Looks like you also put some real world research into your decision and came out better for it. My '66 is a stocker so I probably would not benefit from the change but I am always interested in the opinions of those that benefit or regret a modification on their old Sting Ray.

Ray

Sky65

I installed Wiwood calipers and eBay drilled and slotted rotors on my 65 several years ago. I have been happy with the change. I have a 1" dual aluminum master cylinder, no power. Pedal is hard and does take some effort but stops great. It will easily lockup all four tires and they are wide. 255/60 on the front and 275/50 on the rear. I think a 13/16 bore would be a better. The Wilwoods have more clearance to the wheels than the stock calipers so you should have plenty of clearance with your wheels. The rotors were cheap and not the best. I get a vibration in the pedal under braking. I'm pretty sure the rotors are warped. This is a post from several years ago why I changed to Wilwood.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...holy-crap.html

Tom

dmaxx3500

factory brakes worked on most of the factory L88 cars back in the day,so they should work for you,but a power-assist helps on the street

rayvaflav

This is still a great read, thanks Tom !

Ray

dcamick

Can't imagine a big difference between late C1 (61) and a midyear.........I replaced front drums on my 61. My biggest issue which ended up being minor the second right side install was the inner bearing race press fit.

I'm sure the spindles are different......so this may not be any help....Anyway, I heated the inner bearing race to 400 degrees prior to sliding on the spindle.....worked very well for me....

Results of installing Disk Brakes for a non PB/PS corvette were very noticable. The car already had a Dual Master Cylinder which is highly recommended. Perhaps all C2's have DMC?????

Stock wheel clearance should be checked....I run TTO wheels, so it was not an issue for my project...

Good Luck with your's!!