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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Motor mount keep/replace
Looked up some old threads, including this one https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-mounts.html but still need to be educated a bit further on the subject. It's a '64, engine is 327 250hp, I'm keeping it stock and car will be a driver, not a track car. An Interstate on-ramp is probably about the most strenuous thing it will be dealing with.
The thread above discusses replacement mounts some of which did not fit, some which were in the wrong box, etc. Looks like FLAPS has them pretty reasonably priced, but how do I evaluate re-using the ones I took off? I see the rubber coating is torn in a few places but I believe that's more for vibration control than strength - correct me if need be. Pics of one below, the other is still in the parts washer but about the same condition.
So my questions are
1. What's the difference between locking and non-locking mounts discussed in the thread above?
2. Given my low hp and comparatively mild usage, do I need to worry about high-performance mounts?
3. What's the feeling re just cleaning and re-using the Made In USA mounts that came off there and fit as intended? Is it a no-brainer to go new (and hope I don't have quality or fit problems) or "if it ain't broke don't fix it"?
Original, usable motor and transmission mounts are the dickens to find - I went with Anchor motor mounts which is about as good as it gets. I don't know if the ones you have can be "brought back" from what I'm seeing...
Those look pretty tapped out from here. If the non-critical rubber is shot, wouldn't all the rubber be just as old?
What I've read is that the locking mounts, which were designed in response to the motor mount failures resulting in the throttle sticking and subsequent unintended acceleration, were only needed for the full-sized Chevies, and that Corvettes were not susceptible to that problem. At least that's what I've read. Additionally, the locking motor mounts interfere with one side of the boomerang wiring chrome shielding, requiring that the shielding be modified to fit.
I would replace, though most options are China-brand junk. If you want a made in USA mount, your only option is likely Energy Suspension, but that is a very nonstock-appearing part and is poly (not rubber). I have put them on several Mustangs and honestly they are stiffer than an good OE rubber mount, but way more compliant than a worn-out OE mount.
I put the repro rubber mounts from Corvette Central on my last 67 and was very satisfied with the fit and quality.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Well, in preparing to ask more questions here, I was poking around to see what felt firm etc. A good size chunk came off in my hand. In my first photo, there's a slot on the right hand side. All the rubber along the left-hand ridge of that slot fell apart so I agree with all of you who say "replace". The verdict has been decided!
I'll take a ride to FLAPS and see what they have - Anchor if possible. If I don't like what they have I'll hold off and check Corvette Central. I'd like to keep the boomerangs I guess, so will try to stay fairly close to stock if I can.
Replaced my mounts three weeks ago. Mine is also 327 300hp and believe me the throttle will stick wide open when the D/S mount fails.
I got the non locking mounts at Bennett auto because the locking ones require modifications to the shielding.
Well, in preparing to ask more questions here, I was poking around to see what felt firm etc. A good size chunk came off in my hand. In my first photo, there's a slot on the right hand side. All the rubber along the left-hand ridge of that slot fell apart so I agree with all of you who say "replace". The verdict has been decided!
I'll take a ride to FLAPS and see what they have - Anchor if possible. If I don't like what they have I'll hold off and check Corvette Central. I'd like to keep the boomerangs I guess, so will try to stay fairly close to stock if I can.
Thanks!
Good choice. Power is not the only concern as the engine and drive line alignment impacts everything from vibration comfort to handling.
I believe the mounts you show in the OP have interlocking steel between the frame side and engine side brackets. This prevents the engine from twisting the brackets apart even if the rubber deteriorates.
The original non-interlocking brackets would allow separation of the engine and frame side plates, and the rubber in between could stretch or squeeze. The drivers side stretch was the typical failure mode, and with enough rotation the tail shaft mount would fail or the tail shaft would break (one reason why redesigned Muncie tail shafts received added ribs and strength). The old-school non-interlocked engine mount solution was installing a chain from the engine to frame to limit the separation. The chain was slack at idle and cruise with no vibration, but stretched and taught, limiting engine roll under power. The interlocking engine mounts eliminated the need for a separate "safety" chain.
Looked up some old threads, including this one https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-mounts.html but still need to be educated a bit further on the subject. It's a '64, engine is 327 250hp, I'm keeping it stock and car will be a driver, not a track car. An Interstate on-ramp is probably about the most strenuous thing it will be dealing with.
The thread above discusses replacement mounts some of which did not fit, some which were in the wrong box, etc. Looks like FLAPS has them pretty reasonably priced, but how do I evaluate re-using the ones I took off? I see the rubber coating is torn in a few places but I believe that's more for vibration control than strength - correct me if need be. Pics of one below, the other is still in the parts washer but about the same condition.
So my questions are
1. What's the difference between locking and non-locking mounts discussed in the thread above?
2. Given my low hp and comparatively mild usage, do I need to worry about high-performance mounts?
3. What's the feeling re just cleaning and re-using the Made In USA mounts that came off there and fit as intended? Is it a no-brainer to go new (and hope I don't have quality or fit problems) or "if it ain't broke don't fix it"?
Thanks!
What you have are interlocking, but guess you know that. I also used the Anchor brand from FLAPS. Made in Mexico, but "look" good. Today's rubber "ain't what it used to be".
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Just came back from FLAPS. Not in stock but tomorrow they will have two in for me. Part # is A2249, which is the Anchor which Frankie suggested and is also the one pictured in the other thread I found with search. Whether that is still USA made or not, we'll see tomorrow.
One difference I see is on mine, that locking ridge extends all the way across the mount. In the pic of the new one, looks like a hole in the middle, with 2 segments of that left-hand ridge. I'm guessing that would not be critical, just a bit less structutal area on the lock?
EDIT - the more I look, the more differences I see. I'm hoping that is a generic pic for on-line purposes, and the actual mount will be closer to what I have. I'll be taking the old one in with me for comparison before I buy.
The difference is not critical on our 250hp "mouse" motor cars....I've been driving on my Anchor mounts for close to a year now and no issues and nothing noticeable... Not precisely as the original mounts in appearance but as far as fit and function they're fine. You certainly don't want to fight with shielding fitment issues with those other brands...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 08-26-2018 at 06:04 PM.
Looked up some old threads, including this one https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-mounts.html but still need to be educated a bit further on the subject. It's a '64, engine is 327 250hp, I'm keeping it stock and car will be a driver, not a track car. An Interstate on-ramp is probably about the most strenuous thing it will be dealing with.
The thread above discusses replacement mounts some of which did not fit, some which were in the wrong box, etc. Looks like FLAPS has them pretty reasonably priced, but how do I evaluate re-using the ones I took off? I see the rubber coating is torn in a few places but I believe that's more for vibration control than strength - correct me if need be. Pics of one below, the other is still in the parts washer but about the same condition.
So my questions are
1. What's the difference between locking and non-locking mounts discussed in the thread above?
2. Given my low hp and comparatively mild usage, do I need to worry about high-performance mounts?
3. What's the feeling re just cleaning and re-using the Made In USA mounts that came off there and fit as intended? Is it a no-brainer to go new (and hope I don't have quality or fit problems) or "if it ain't broke don't fix it"?
Thanks!
The mounts pictured is of the later interlocking kind. So even if the vulcanizing lets go the engine stays basically in place.
The loose rubber squeezeout from the manufacturing is only cosmetic.
Check if the loadbearing surfaces are coming loose, not so likely in a low HP car. Big block torque is another matter.
If no problem is detected you can use them, the interlocking feature protects you in case of failure.
And you don't have to fit indian, chinese or something parts.
Thats just my opinion.
I
Replace them. They aren't original anyway. If memory serves they didn't come out with the interlocking feature until 68. And to Ed yes they are
the same. Yours are the early ones without the safety locking.
You have the locking type, so at least it wont end up like mine
I actually tried to replace this mount before it failed, but the ones I ordered didnt fit.... despite being from a corvette supplier and listed as fitting a 64.
I'm here to say if they break you'll need a change of shorts. I had this happen and hp rating does not matter. I was getting on it and mount broke. Engine lifted and jammed throttle linkage wide open. Fan hit shroud and bent blade took out radiator. Only thing that saved me was pushing clutch in and engine sat back down. I now run a turn buckle on driver side to limit torque lift. It was a very exciting event
Be cautious with Anchor mounts....the last set I bought for a Mustang were so poorly made, there was no possibility of the mount holes aligning without major work with a burr on my die grinder...
I'm here to say if they break you'll need a change of shorts. I had this happen and hp rating does not matter. I was getting on it and mount broke. Engine lifted and jammed throttle linkage wide open. Fan hit shroud and bent blade took out radiator. Only thing that saved me was pushing clutch in and engine sat back down. I now run a turn buckle on driver side to limit torque lift. It was a very exciting event
When the non-interlocking mounts let go on the drivers side it gets your attention. If the engine twists up enough to drop out the clutch linkage from the ball end in the block, things can get real ugly.
The 1960's equivalent of a sudden acceleration problem.
.
Railroadman, If the car had the 1969 & later interlocking style mounts, and there was no problem with fit and you do not plan to restore the car, the interlock style are safer and less expensive.
08-26-2018, 12:13 PM
Motor mount keep/replace
