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Frankie was SO right - Evapo-Rust tocks!
EDIT - how can I preview it 5 times and not see the typo, should say "rocks"
Working on a non-Vette project and had some stuff rusted pretty good which I needed to restore. Decided this was a good time to try that Evapo-Rust Frankie said was so good. (and others agreed). Got a small bottle at FLAPS, the guy said I missed getting their last gallon jug of it by about a half hour. I'm here to tell you Frank is not kidding, the stuff works great. I'm about ready to get a second parts washer, and filling that one with this chemical.
I am going to set up a method for cleaning all the small washers, nuts etc I take off the Vette, to help evaluation for keep/toss. I'm thinking 2 tin cans, one a bit larger than the other. I'll drill holes in the small one for a wire handle, and several small holes in the bottom. Drop the parts into the small can, small can into large can, and fill with Evapo-rust. When done, it will work just like what I have in the parts washer, easily draining the liquid into the larger can for return to the bottle and re-use.
Thanks Frankie, you were right on the money about that stuff! If anybody is thinking of giving it a try, I think you will like it.
Last edited by Railroadman; 08-28-2018 at 07:28 PM.
I agree that "Evaporust" works great. It's only drawback is that it's kinda expensive. You might want to try something called "Rust-911". It works the same way as "Evaporust" (chellation), but comes as a concentrate. A one gallon container costs about the same as a 5 gallon bucket of "Evaporust", but makes 16 gallons of working solution. I have used both products a lot, and for some reason, real "Evaporust" seems to work a little better than "Rust-911" solution. I keep some of both on hand. I use the real "Evaporust" for rusted tools, nuts and bolts, and most of the small stuff. If I have something big, I go with "Rust-911". For example, I pulled an old "SouthWind" heater out of a scrap pile. It wouldn't fit in anything smaller that a 5 gallon bucket, so I used the "Rust-911" solution for that. I had a good running Mercury flathead I wanted to use. I had it on my test stand, and filled it with "Rust-911" solution, and ran it for an hour or so, and then flushed it with plain water. I did this three times, and the first two times, the "Rust-911" solution came out black. The last time, it discolored only slightly, so I went with it. I have been running that engine in my '51 Ford for the last two years with 180 degree thermostats. I have never seen it over 180 degrees during that time. If you are familiar with the reputation flatheads have for running hot, you can appreciate what a feat this is. Oh yeah, "Home depot" carries a similar product called "Metal Rescue" if you can't find "Evaporust" locally.
Just this week I picked up 2 gallons at Tractor Supply, $4 off @ $17 and change. That was in Ashland, VA.
It's safe to put your hands in, so all that about cans isn't necessary. Pour into a container, place rusty parts in, retrieve once clean. And when it gets black and stops working, just flush it safely down the drain.
Funny you post this RRman. I remember Frankie talking about it and I was on the phone with my painter talking about the upcoming drop off and we were going over rusty stuff and he said to use it as well. I looked on amazon and they had 3.5 gal bucket for $58. I ordered at noon and it was on my door step at 7:30pm. $63 after tax.
Has anyone tried the gel? On my 63 there are areas with a light skin coating of rust. Like doors or other vertical areas. I am curious how you might have used the gel and how did you know when to flush with water?
Has anyone tried the gel? On my 63 there are areas with a light skin coating of rust. Like doors or other vertical areas. I am curious how you might have used the gel and how did you know when to flush with water?
I just had GREAT success with the gel - I had an engine pad that was totally unreadable - I put gel on it then covered it with plastic - it turns black - i wiped it off and did the same thing two more times - the engine pad is totally readable now - did not harm a thing !!!!! I let it sit 24 hrs each time. The engine pad was very valuable and totally unreadable and super hard to access due to brackets. I used a acid brush to apply - then covered it with a sandwich ziploc.
I became enamored of this product when I was involved with a particular line of Ford vehicles...
They don't call them Rustangs for nothing....
This stuff won't burn you like Ospho or eat holes in your concrete garage floor....its excellent for its intended purpose...
I don't put that much stock in 'online' reviews of products anymore - you always have one clown that can't follow directions and is a one-star pizzed off reviewer and the other end of the spectrum where a different clown does a five-star rave about a product even if its a turd because he shelled out his money for it...or he wants you to get screwed like he did...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 08-29-2018 at 08:38 AM.
08-28-2018, 07:27 PM
Frankie was SO right - Evapo-Rust tocks!
If anybody is thinking of giving it a try, I think you will like it.
