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I'm finally finishing up the swap from drums to discs on the rear of my '64 coupe. I ordered the parking brake cable for the disc brake cars from Van Steel. Everything is pretty self explanatory, and getting it installed only took 15 minutes, but as you can see, I have the adjuster pushed as far forward as it will go, and there is still a good inch or two of slack in the cable. Am I missing something in my set up, or is there another part I need to complete the conversion?
Assuming the unseen ends are routed and connected properly -- there isn't much left except a cable that is too long or an adjustment rod not threaded far enough down its length...
I'd give Van Steel a call and see what they say...
Kind of what I figured....Ill give them a call tomorrow. The ends going to the calipers are all routed and connected properly....the only thing I can think of is that the drum brake cars had a different adjustment rod than the disc brake cars? All it would take is another inch of thread to take up the slack, but as you can see, I'm bottomed out at this point....
Yeah that looks way off. The adjuster nut should not need to be adjusted that far forward. Assuming all is correct at the brake end, perhaps the hand mechanism is run afoul. Can you post photos of the pulley mechanism?
All 67-82 cables measure out to be 88" with a 12-3/4" sheathing. If you cable measures out the same, and I'm most certain it will you will need to contact Global West and ask them what to do. I think the parking brake cable bracket is located in the wrong spot making the cable more of a straight shot right to the #3 cross member frame bracket vs having more of a bend to it like factory cables. Here's one on our offset arm on it and one on a factory arm. The decrease in bend where the cable sheathing is, is causing the line to be to long.
If there is no shorter cable to be found, you can cut the necessary inches off of one end and swage a new ball on that end. I’d say that’s the simplest solution.
If there is no shorter cable to be found, you can cut the necessary inches off of one end and swage a new ball on that end. I’d say that’s the simplest solution.
Drop by your local HD or Lowe’s. They have the tool to swage wire rope, but I’m not sure if it can be used on the ball ends, but it’s worth asking. Also, given you are in Norfolk, there are local companies that make wire rope and braided cable assemblies that might just crimp it for you while you wait.
Drop by your local HD or Lowe’s. They have the tool to swage wire rope, but I’m not sure if it can be used on the ball ends, but it’s worth asking. Also, given you are in Norfolk, there are local companies that make wire rope and braided cable assemblies that might just crimp it for you while you wait.
Good call...thanks! Probably a lot easier to just cut 2" of this cable and swage a new fitting than to mess with a custom cable.
Definitely. Another thought is the shipyard on the base. Somewhere in that shipyard is the tool and capability. Maybe ask one of the maintenance chiefs if they have any contacts. When I was stationed in Pearl Harbor, I got a lot of specialty car work done by some of the shipyard guys. Usually for a six pack of Primo beer!
Did you adjust the e-brake shoes inside the rotors to minimize the clearance. If there's too much clearance, your cable will seem like it's too long. I loosen the front cable and then adjust the star wheels until the rotors lock up and then I back off 4 notches on each side. Try that, and then see if the cable is still too long.
Did you adjust the e-brake shoes inside the rotors to minimize the clearance. If there's too much clearance, your cable will seem like it's too long. I loosen the front cable and then adjust the star wheels until the rotors lock up and then I back off 4 notches on each side. Try that, and then see if the cable is still too long.
RON
Ron, Ill take a look....I haven't adjusted the e-brake shoes yet, although I'd be surprised if that took up the amount of slack I currently have, but its definitely worth a shot. FWIW, Global West says that the stock parking brake cable works with their arms as well.
Definitely. Another thought is the shipyard on the base. Somewhere in that shipyard is the tool and capability. Maybe ask one of the maintenance chiefs if they have any contacts. When I was stationed in Pearl Harbor, I got a lot of specialty car work done by some of the shipyard guys. Usually for a six pack of Primo beer!
Yea, Ill ask around work today. We may even have the equipment at out squadron... the flight controls in the MH-53 are all rods and bell cranks, but the throttle quadrant is all stainless braided cable.
You can still do a bit of comshaw, but you know that....
I could tell you stories about chrome plating motorcycle parts at *** Norfolk in the 70s....
But I won't
An alternative is to add threads to the rod the adjustment bracket rides on in the picture in the first post...as long as the cable/rod geometry still worked it might be an easier option... I could prob do that with hand tools and a vice in my garage....
I'm a bit skeptical about non-factory crimps holding your car if you ever get stationed somewhere with big hills. I'm just sayin'...
But before I did ANY of that I would consider Van Steel's advice in post #8....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-15-2018 at 07:13 AM.
Flynavvy30, check with the AR shop at work.. the guys that do flight controls.. All the shops have a ATI520 JK swagging machine for cables for mobility. I used the one at my base for years for my acft rebuilds and bought one from the base when it closed down. it will work just fine for your needs.. If you ask the maint guys real nice they might even give you the ***** (usually on bench stock) but if not you can get them from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.
Dan at Van Steel was kind enough to give me the contact info for the company they use to manufacture the replacement cables in the first place. I'm just going to send it back to them and have them take 3 inches out of it and send it back. I did adjust the tensioners on the brake shoes before measuring how much cable to remove. 3 inches of slack should put the tensioner right in the middle of the adjustment range.
09-05-2018, 04:10 PM
Parking brake set up assistance
