C1 & C2 Corvettes General C1 Corvette & C2 Corvette Discussion, Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Project Builds, Restorations

Gas tank straps '62

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-15-2018, 04:36 PM
  #1  
Brew715
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Brew715's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 67
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default Gas tank straps '62

Has anyone replaced the gas tank straps on a '62? What does this entail? I wiggled the stay underneath and it fell off in my hand, rusted through.
Old 09-15-2018, 04:47 PM
  #2  
Chummy85623
Instructor
 
Chummy85623's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2018
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 181
Received 26 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

I've done it with my car. Had to take the tank out to get years of nasty gas and "stuff" boiled out of it.

There are threads on replacing straps that you can find using the forum search feature. The straps are a big PITA. Your experience with having the bolts rusted is typical. The new straps had to be bent to get them even close to fitting. I used all thread with nuts and washers to pull them into place the rest of the way and then replaced the bolts one at a time. That's what worked for me.

Its one of those jobs that required me to just take my time and several "step away and take a walk" before coming back to it. But it got done. Good luck
Old 09-15-2018, 05:20 PM
  #3  
Brew715
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Brew715's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 67
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Chummy85623
I've done it with my car. Had to take the tank out to get years of nasty gas and "stuff" boiled out of it.

There are threads on replacing straps that you can find using the forum search feature. The straps are a big PITA. Your experience with having the bolts rusted is typical. The new straps had to be bent to get them even close to fitting. I used all thread with nuts and washers to pull them into place the rest of the way and then replaced the bolts one at a time. That's what worked for me.

Its one of those jobs that required me to just take my time and several "step away and take a walk" before coming back to it. But it got done. Good luck
Will the tank come out of the car through that access panel in the trunk if I decide to pull it or Can I just leave it in place and feed the new straps in up from the bottom? I have a bouncy fuel indicator as well. If I replace with a new sender will it fix of help the bouncy needle indicator? IF I have to do that though , I might as well rehab the whole thing. I haven't even pulled that panel yet to look at it. Just found the rusty strap a couple of hours ago.
Old 09-15-2018, 05:42 PM
  #4  
Brew715
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Brew715's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 67
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

I would look now but it's at the shop getting a new starter motor put on. The mounting bracket vibrated loose on the first starter (just replaced thursday) and broke the mounting plate. I found the rusty strap while it was on the lift. I decided to have a clutch kit put on it too as long as they had it up. I can't pick it up until Monday and was just wondering about the new (never ending ) problem with the straps.
Old 09-15-2018, 06:08 PM
  #5  
Chummy85623
Instructor
 
Chummy85623's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2018
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 181
Received 26 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

The tank cover comes out after removing the screws around the circumference. You definitely need to remove the cover. Once the straps are removed, and after removing the fuel line and wires to the sender, the tank can be lifted out of the car if need be.

I had to remove the tank for reasons other than the straps. Not sure if you need to do so to just replace straps but the front of the straps need to be fed down and hooked onto the fitting on the car. It's probably easier to do that with the tank out. Someone else will likely add to this.

The fuel senders on these cars is another issue. I replaced mine with a new one and it still doesn't work. I called Southern Car Parts and they indicated they would replace the sender but it never happened. If yours is just "bouncy" you' re ahead of the game.
Old 09-15-2018, 06:41 PM
  #6  
vettsplit 63
Le Mans Master

 
vettsplit 63's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: "You may all go to Hell- and I will go to Texas- Davy Crockett
Posts: 9,151
Received 474 Likes on 337 Posts
St. Jude Donor '12

Default

Don't know if it will help, but when I was looking through a wiring harness pdf the other day, the author showed a ground strap going from one of the sender mounting bolts to the frame for a non working or poorly grounded fuel sender
Old 09-15-2018, 06:50 PM
  #7  
Brew715
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Brew715's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 67
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Chummy85623
The tank cover comes out after removing the screws around the circumference. You definitely need to remove the cover. Once the straps are removed, and after removing the fuel line and wires to the sender, the tank can be lifted out of the car if need be.

I had to remove the tank for reasons other than the straps. Not sure if you need to do so to just replace straps but the front of the straps need to be fed down and hooked onto the fitting on the car. It's probably easier to do that with the tank out. Someone else will likely add to this.

The fuel senders on these cars is another issue. I replaced mine with a new one and it still doesn't work. I called Southern Car Parts and they indicated they would replace the sender but it never happened. If yours is just "bouncy" you' re ahead of the game.
Thanks Chummy. I reviewed the past posts on this as you suggested. Yep, sounds like a PITA for sure. I'm temped to just run a canvas strap through and secure it down for now until I get the gumption to fix it correctly. I was turning a slow corner and slowly went over a speed bump when I heard a strange thump behind the passenger seat. The same side as the busted strap. At least I know what caused it. When I get the car back Monday from the shop I'll dig into it and see what the condition is. I've just owned the car since July 15th of this year and we're still getting to know each other. So far the total is : a new water pump (did myself). A new fuel pump, a new starter motor, and a new clutch kit in the shop now. ( preventative, I can hear the throw out bearing talking back) And a weird propensity of not being able to red line over 3500 rpm. Which Leads me to believe the clutch is slipping. However, hard to tell because of the original sketchy distributor driven tac reading and the good torque up until that point dictates a good mate. So as long as it's up....I told them just do it. Thanks for your reply, your experience and directing me to the knowledge base. Now if I could buy a frown eraser for my wifes face somewhere that would be ****.
Old 09-15-2018, 11:14 PM
  #8  
59BlueSilver
Safety Car

 
59BlueSilver's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: Arlington TX
Posts: 4,833
Received 929 Likes on 531 Posts
2023 Restomod of the Year Finalist
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified

Default

I used a canvas strap tie down instead of the steel strap and like it better. Doesn’t rust, chafe, make noise, and will last practically forever.
Old 09-16-2018, 11:05 AM
  #9  
Brew715
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Brew715's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 67
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by vettsplit 63
Don't know if it will help, but when I was looking through a wiring harness pdf the other day, the author showed a ground strap going from one of the sender mounting bolts to the frame for a non working or poorly grounded fuel sender
ahh sooo. Good to know.
Old 09-16-2018, 11:09 AM
  #10  
Brew715
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
Brew715's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 67
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 59BlueSilver
I used a canvas strap tie down instead of the steel strap and like it better. Doesn’t rust, chafe, make noise, and will last practically forever.
Good enough for me. I'm gonna do it too.
Old 09-16-2018, 11:18 AM
  #11  
SDVette
Safety Car
 
SDVette's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2000
Location: Poway CA
Posts: 4,845
Received 1,295 Likes on 560 Posts
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (stock)
2016 C1 of Year Finalist

Default

I bought new straps when I replaced my tank. However, other than a few rusty places, the originals were in pretty good condition.
The mounts (as you point out) were a different story. They needed replacement.

It was so difficult to get the new straps to "take the shape" that I ended up wire-brushing, painting, and re-using my original straps.
I sent the new straps back for a refund!

Last edited by SDVette; 09-16-2018 at 11:18 AM.
Old 09-16-2018, 01:07 PM
  #12  
Chummy85623
Instructor
 
Chummy85623's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2018
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 181
Received 26 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SDVette
I bought new straps when I replaced my tank. However, other than a few rusty places, the originals were in pretty good condition.
The mounts (as you point out) were a different story. They needed replacement.

It was so difficult to get the new straps to "take the shape" that I ended up wire-brushing, painting, and re-using my original straps.
I sent the new straps back for a refund!
Yes. The problem with the new straps is getting them to take the shape needed to secure them to the fasteners in the back. That's why I used the all threaded rod to pull them down to the point where I could then remove one side at a time and secure with the new fasteners. I'm not worried about future rust. My car is an southern AZ car all it's life.
Old 09-16-2018, 05:15 PM
  #13  
Frankie the Fink
Team Owner

 
Frankie the Fink's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,062
Received 7,082 Likes on 4,736 Posts
Army

Default

Originally Posted by vettsplit 63
Don't know if it will help, but when I was looking through a wiring harness pdf the other day, the author showed a ground strap going from one of the sender mounting bolts to the frame for a non working or poorly grounded fuel sender
That extra ground is a common fix for a “dancing” fuel gauge when the brakes are applied.
Old 09-16-2018, 10:31 PM
  #14  
CANDA
Instructor
 
CANDA's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Sherman TX
Posts: 107
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

If your going to go to all the trouble of replacing the straps you should at least also replace the vent hose, the hose connecting the fuel line and fuel sensor, and possibly the filler hose. Redo any electric connections to the fuel sensor, redo the ground and I added another ground connected to a second part of the frame. If your tank is cruddy you may want to consider that also. My tank was the original one and I found a couple of rust spots that caused concern with gas leaks. If your strap connectors or straps are coming apart due to rust you should consider replacing the tank as well. Yep expensive and as noted a pain in the rear but once its done you know its taken care of. Just sayin. Good luck.
Claude
Old 09-18-2018, 10:13 AM
  #15  
jimh_1962
Le Mans Master
 
jimh_1962's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Norcal CA
Posts: 6,717
Received 551 Likes on 444 Posts
2018 C1 of Year Finalist

Default

My .02. I used longer bolts to get the straps formed then removed the long bolts and replaced them with the correct ones. By long I meant around 3-4 inch bolts (cannot remember such a long time ago).

Get notified of new replies

To Gas tank straps '62




Quick Reply: Gas tank straps '62



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:18 PM.