[C2] Need Wiring advise on 63!!!! PLEASE!!!
09-20-2018, 12:08 PM
#1
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Need Wiring advise on 63!!!! PLEASE!!!
Hello to all,
I am not usually a Forum guy and I just joined because I am stumped and need some advise or help. PLEASE READ ALL AND HELP ME if you can.
I bought a 63 corvette convertible a year ago and I am trying to get it done finally. I pulled the numbers matching 300hp 327 and the trans. Wanted to keep it together and not wear it out or hurt it for future reinstall. Kinda to keep the value of it as high as possible. In the search for a fast driver I installed a blueprint 450hp 383. I am going Holley Sniper fuel injection, Vintage A/C... car was a non a/c car. And the list goes on. ANYWAYS... I have upgraded to a one wire alternator and I am having trouble with the factory horn relay and the voltage regulator.
The alternator is easy just one wire up from the starter. I am running a 4g wire.... is that big enough??
What do I do with the OE regulator??? Can I delete it??? If so... What do I do with the Horn Relay???
There are wires coming from the alternator to the relay and the voltage regulator.
Any help would be awesome. I would even call someone if it would be easier for the explanation.
Please help fellas... I know there has to be some that has done this.
Thanks for reading...THanks for helping in advance
Warren
I am not usually a Forum guy and I just joined because I am stumped and need some advise or help. PLEASE READ ALL AND HELP ME if you can.
I bought a 63 corvette convertible a year ago and I am trying to get it done finally. I pulled the numbers matching 300hp 327 and the trans. Wanted to keep it together and not wear it out or hurt it for future reinstall. Kinda to keep the value of it as high as possible. In the search for a fast driver I installed a blueprint 450hp 383. I am going Holley Sniper fuel injection, Vintage A/C... car was a non a/c car. And the list goes on. ANYWAYS... I have upgraded to a one wire alternator and I am having trouble with the factory horn relay and the voltage regulator.
The alternator is easy just one wire up from the starter. I am running a 4g wire.... is that big enough??
What do I do with the OE regulator??? Can I delete it??? If so... What do I do with the Horn Relay???
There are wires coming from the alternator to the relay and the voltage regulator.
Any help would be awesome. I would even call someone if it would be easier for the explanation.
Please help fellas... I know there has to be some that has done this.
Thanks for reading...THanks for helping in advance
Warren
09-20-2018, 05:29 PM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2001
Location: Various places in California. Not currently aflame.
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Welcome to the midyear Corvette world!
Well, the one-wire alternators are generally a poor choice for our cars. When using a one-wire alternator, you eliminate the voltage regulator. So you don't need to worry about hooking that up. But the trouble is that the one-wire alternator is not able to sense demands appropriately which will usually lead to poor performance--lights that get dim, a battery that's under- or over-charged, etc.
Is there a reason you went with a one-wire unit? I know the AC and FI likely required more alternator capacity, but that could still be done with a 10DN alternator. Depending on how much current those are drawing and how you have chosen to wire them, you may need to upgrade the wiring harness. That's probably why no one has responded--they don't want to give advice on something as important (and dangerous) as wiring when they have no idea how yours is set up.
I hope that helps. If nothing else, this will bring your query to the top....
Good luck to ya!
Well, the one-wire alternators are generally a poor choice for our cars. When using a one-wire alternator, you eliminate the voltage regulator. So you don't need to worry about hooking that up. But the trouble is that the one-wire alternator is not able to sense demands appropriately which will usually lead to poor performance--lights that get dim, a battery that's under- or over-charged, etc.
Is there a reason you went with a one-wire unit? I know the AC and FI likely required more alternator capacity, but that could still be done with a 10DN alternator. Depending on how much current those are drawing and how you have chosen to wire them, you may need to upgrade the wiring harness. That's probably why no one has responded--they don't want to give advice on something as important (and dangerous) as wiring when they have no idea how yours is set up.
I hope that helps. If nothing else, this will bring your query to the top....
Good luck to ya!
09-20-2018, 06:16 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
I modified my car in much the way you are doing about 17 years ago, and I have not had any electrical problems related to those changes. The way I visualized the alternator/regulator change was to look at the factory wiring diagram and draw a circle around everything going into and out of the original system. You'll find there are lots of wires between the alternator and regulator, but only two connections that leave that circle - a ground for the alternator and a +12v power wire going to the horn relay. So I removed all that extraneous equipment and wiring (you could leave it disconnected if you like) and ran the single wire from the alternator to the horn relay. Just be sure the alternator is properly grounded through its mounting bracket.
P.S. You need to keep the horn relay because it serves as the main power buss under the hood.
P.P.S. There are dozens of wire gauge calculator websites that will recommend the wire size for a given voltage, amps and length of wire. All you have to do is determine the maximum amps based on your equipment. Here's one: link.
P.S. You need to keep the horn relay because it serves as the main power buss under the hood.
P.P.S. There are dozens of wire gauge calculator websites that will recommend the wire size for a given voltage, amps and length of wire. All you have to do is determine the maximum amps based on your equipment. Here's one: link.
Last edited by kellsdad; 09-20-2018 at 06:45 PM.
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QICRNU (09-20-2018)
09-20-2018, 06:35 PM
#4
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Welcome to the midyear Corvette world!
Well, the one-wire alternators are generally a poor choice for our cars. When using a one-wire alternator, you eliminate the voltage regulator. So you don't need to worry about hooking that up. But the trouble is that the one-wire alternator is not able to sense demands appropriately which will usually lead to poor performance--lights that get dim, a battery that's under- or over-charged, etc.
Is there a reason you went with a one-wire unit? I know the AC and FI likely required more alternator capacity, but that could still be done with a 10DN alternator. Depending on how much current those are drawing and how you have chosen to wire them, you may need to upgrade the wiring harness. That's probably why no one has responded--they don't want to give advice on something as important (and dangerous) as wiring when they have no idea how yours is set up.
I hope that helps. If nothing else, this will bring your query to the top....
Good luck to ya!
Well, the one-wire alternators are generally a poor choice for our cars. When using a one-wire alternator, you eliminate the voltage regulator. So you don't need to worry about hooking that up. But the trouble is that the one-wire alternator is not able to sense demands appropriately which will usually lead to poor performance--lights that get dim, a battery that's under- or over-charged, etc.
Is there a reason you went with a one-wire unit? I know the AC and FI likely required more alternator capacity, but that could still be done with a 10DN alternator. Depending on how much current those are drawing and how you have chosen to wire them, you may need to upgrade the wiring harness. That's probably why no one has responded--they don't want to give advice on something as important (and dangerous) as wiring when they have no idea how yours is set up.
I hope that helps. If nothing else, this will bring your query to the top....
Good luck to ya!
Thank you sir... I apologize for any misunderstandings. I am going to add a post but wanted to thank you personally
09-20-2018, 06:49 PM
#5
4th Gear
Thread Starter
PLEASE DONT BE UPSET FELLAS........
I Called painless wiring and Ron Francis. Both of them finally got back to me. I found out a few things. The voltage regulator came be removed completely without harm as long as the One wire is internally regulated and of good quality. The horn relay is just used as a junction block. All of the wires I was worried about can be eliminated. The car has been messed with more than once... years of repairs I am guessing. As far as DUCKs message.... I am replacing the wire that would cause the most issue and that is the main battery lead to the alternator. Larger gauge and needed it longer because the alternator got moved to the drivers side due to the vintage air a/c. As far as the horn relay.. I deleted it too and moved all the power wires that were necessary to a junction block hidden in the passenger wheel well behind the battery. Cleaned up a lot of wiring that way too. Replaced all the main power wires off the starter/alternator to where ever they were used. I replaced the fuse block with an original equipment style one with more ports in it under the dash as well. I just ran into the issue with all those wires that were making loops through the car. They started and stopped all at the horn relay by the factory wiring diagram. Gentleman at Ron Francis was a huge help.
I apologize for any inconvience this may have brought... I dont know how to delete the post to prevent later confusion.
Thanks again.
Warren
I Called painless wiring and Ron Francis. Both of them finally got back to me. I found out a few things. The voltage regulator came be removed completely without harm as long as the One wire is internally regulated and of good quality. The horn relay is just used as a junction block. All of the wires I was worried about can be eliminated. The car has been messed with more than once... years of repairs I am guessing. As far as DUCKs message.... I am replacing the wire that would cause the most issue and that is the main battery lead to the alternator. Larger gauge and needed it longer because the alternator got moved to the drivers side due to the vintage air a/c. As far as the horn relay.. I deleted it too and moved all the power wires that were necessary to a junction block hidden in the passenger wheel well behind the battery. Cleaned up a lot of wiring that way too. Replaced all the main power wires off the starter/alternator to where ever they were used. I replaced the fuse block with an original equipment style one with more ports in it under the dash as well. I just ran into the issue with all those wires that were making loops through the car. They started and stopped all at the horn relay by the factory wiring diagram. Gentleman at Ron Francis was a huge help.
I apologize for any inconvience this may have brought... I dont know how to delete the post to prevent later confusion.
Thanks again.
Warren
09-20-2018, 06:54 PM
#6
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Thank you!!!!
I modified my car in much the way you are doing about 17 years ago, and I have not had any electrical problems related to those changes. The way I visualized the alternator/regulator change was to look at the factory wiring diagram and draw a circle around everything going into and out of the original system. You'll find there are lots of wires between the alternator and regulator, but only two connections that leave that circle - a ground for the alternator and a +12v power wire going to the horn relay. So I removed all that extraneous equipment and wiring (you could leave it disconnected if you like) and ran the single wire from the alternator to the horn relay. Just be sure the alternator is properly grounded through its mounting bracket.
P.S. You need to keep the horn relay because it serves as the main power buss under the hood.
P.P.S. There are dozens of wire gauge calculator websites that will recommend the wire size for a given voltage, amps and length of wire. All you have to do is determine the maximum amps based on your equipment. Here's one: link.
P.S. You need to keep the horn relay because it serves as the main power buss under the hood.
P.P.S. There are dozens of wire gauge calculator websites that will recommend the wire size for a given voltage, amps and length of wire. All you have to do is determine the maximum amps based on your equipment. Here's one: link.
I Did the same as you.... I just wanted to make sure it was not going to cause an issue. Ron Francis wiring finally called me back and I was instructed the same way you advised. I made my own Power Distributuion block and hid it behind the battery in the fender well. I have a few more connections to make and then it will be testing time... maybe next week..... then get everything loomed up and light this monster off.