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Had some strange noise coming from my TO Bearing (at least that is what I guessed).
So I took it out (a shitty job...) and yes it did not seem ok.
There is some serious pitting where the fork fingers are resting/pushing, and the flange is bent upward.
I put the TOB in some 12k miles ago.
Any suggestion what the cause of this can be?
Last edited by alexandervdr; 11-09-2018 at 11:07 AM.
Wow - never seen anything like that. Curious to hear from others. Does it slide on the transmission collar smoothly? Is there a worn notch in the bearing flange on both sides - I assume where the fork fingers bear? How can a fork cause that spot damage/wear??
When adjusting the pedal I may have confused pedal mechanics (from pedal to fork) clearance with the free travel needed to keep the bearing from the fingers. When I removed the transmission, the bearing was stuck against the clutch fingers. I had to adjust the Z-bar rod (pedal side) and release some pressure to be able to slide the bearing from the fork. If that was the problem, it means the bearing was probably in contact with the fingers all or most of the time (clutch in or out), and all the harsh engine vibration was directly transferred to the fork bearing contact point causing the wear. Not sure this makes sense?
If it does, still no clue how that flange got bent!
Need to check the fork ends too. Do I need to unscrew the fork pivot ball, or does the fork simply slide off?
Wow - never seen anything like that. Curious to hear from others. Does it slide on the transmission collar smoothly? Is there a worn notch in the bearing flange on both sides - I assume where the fork fingers bear? How can a fork cause that spot damage/wear??
Clutch pedal adjusted preloaded and thus excess heat caused warp, not much else could cause this. I would replace TO bearing and fork obviously and the pressure plate, might also look at the flywheel and disc and ball pivot.
That's pretty ugly. I'm thinking the clutch fork geometry is off. Miss match of parts? Wrong fork pivot ball or fork? The release fork has dug into the bearing side of the assembly, 90 degs to that and opposite the metal is bent back and the center sleeve is no longer perpendicular to the bearing surface. Seems like like the fork angle is too much. Here is some great info on clutches.
this is how the bent flange looks on the inside where the fork goes, it's definitely been hit or forced by something. Most probably wrong clutch fork geometry.
Last edited by alexandervdr; 11-09-2018 at 02:12 PM.
engine is in the car with bell housing mounted. How do I remove the clutch fork?
If it's a standard GM fork, you should be able to pull on the outer end while using your other hand inside the bellhousing to push the inner portion of the fork forward while you other hand pulls it out. That should release fork from the ball stud and allow it to disengage from the springs. It should come off without much effort.
this is how the bent flange looks on the inside where the fork goes, it's definitely been hit or forced by something. Most probably wrong clutch fork geometry.
Did you have the fork fingers and the spring tabs both riding inside the groove - which is correct. Or were the spring tabs riding on the outside of the bearing collar/bent flange (towards the transmission)? What kind of bellhousing are you using?
Last edited by DansYellow66; 11-09-2018 at 02:15 PM.
yes the spring tabs were bot running inside the groove. will check the bell housing tomorrow, came with the car one of the few things I did not check or replace ;-)
By the way, shouldn't it be the other way around to remove the fork, meaning pushing inwards on the z-bar side of the fork to release the clip?
Last edited by alexandervdr; 11-09-2018 at 02:31 PM.
yes the spring tabs were bot running inside the groove. will check the bell housing tomorrow, came with the car one of the few things I did not check or replace ;-)
By the way, shouldn't it be the other way around to remove the fork, meaning pushing inwards on the z-bar side of the fork to release the clip?
Yes, you have to push the fork inwards toward the center of the bell housing.
yes the spring tabs were bot running inside the groove. will check the bell housing tomorrow, came with the car one of the few things I did not check or replace ;-)
By the way, shouldn't it be the other way around to remove the fork, meaning pushing inwards on the z-bar side of the fork to release the clip?
You have me there Alexander. I'm having one of those dyslexia moments. Yes push the fork towards the passenger side of the car.
To me it looks like a rivet head hit the flange just when the clutch was pushed, as there's 3 dimples, the same shape but at a spacing that suggests spinning. And the flange is clearly cracked around those dimples.
11-09-2018, 11:06 AM
TO Bearing problem
