tbarb

I did not know you were going to do all that work to the fuel system when I made my post.

Have you given any thought to a wideband O2 and get the carburetor to perform like fuel injection, might be just the right challenge for you if the fuel injection costs to much.

MikeM

PWilly was the OP and his OP is above. Not Rocket Man.

PWilyl says his stuff runs fine on E 10 and just wants to know if higher octane and no corn juice mixed in will his car run better? That was his question.

All the rest of this stuff in the thread is just life's little experiences in the geographical area you live and the vehicle you use it in.

If his stuff is running fine I'd have to ask what does he have to gain by spending $.50/gal more for something else that also runs fine?

wmf62

if the Florida Panther wasn't protected, and panther pizz would burn, i'd use it...
Bill

emccomas

The Rochester EFI conversion is a LONG TERM project, but my goal is a systems that looks like a Rochester FI system, and adds the reliability and drivability of a modern EFI system

I do not expect to "fool" the experts (basically anyone that knows what a factory Rochester FI setup looks like), just want it to sort of look period correct.

I expect / hope to have no more than roughly 1/2 the cost of a restored Rochester FI system, so somewhere in the $6K to $7K range, but I can / will go up ma bit to get the system just right.

Frankie the Fink

You should pick the brain of "wmf62" above, Bill Fleckenstein.

He has done what you are attempting in his 62, I've known the car and the person for over a decade... He can undoubtedly save you some heartache and $$$...

wmf62

I have a bit more than $5K invested in mine, 10 years ago; and I already had the adapter plate and doghouse. the major investment was in the ACCEL EFI electronics (which are now orphans due to technology advances.... ).

if something should happen to any of those components I will have to reinvent the wheel.... (something that may actually be easier today with the self tuning systems.. there were days, back then, that I wanted to find a tall building to jump off of...)

hard to believe, but I actually lost a mpg or so with the conversion, but the reliability and lack of perc problems has made it all worthwhile.... knock on wood...

Bill

jim lockwood

As I recall, when we reviewed your fuel map a few months ago, it it was on the rich side of stoich. Too, didn't you tune your Rochester FI by making it as lean as possible without provoking a lean stumble?

Or have I not had enough coffee yet this morning?

Jim

wmf62

Jim
no, you're right, IIRC it was 14.9; I upped it to 15.6 but have downed it to 15.1.. why, dunno… I guess because it's easy to do and I perceived a bit of leanness without getting to the stumble point....

I still haven't gotten the tune to where "I" think it ought to be, and if you saw my present fuel map you'd definitely need to make another pot of coffee

thanks
Bill

GEM '62

I have driven my 300hp 327 over 110,000 miles using ethanol gas. occasionally in the winter it may sit for 4 to 6 weeks without being started. I have never had a gasket, rubber hose, starting, percolation, or any fuel related problems. I have tried non- ethanol a couple of times and didn't see any real improvement. So for me, if it's not broke, don't fix it, especially if it's going to cost me more money.

wmf62

but others won't/don't

Bill

jim lockwood

Does your equipment have the option of displaying air/fuel in terms of Lambda instead of calculated air/fuel ratio?

wmf62

dunno…. AFR I understand, lambda is Greek to me....
Bill

jim lockwood

Oh, that's bad!!!!!!

Near as I can tell, all O2 sensors measure Lambda which is 1.0 at a stoich mixture, regardless of fuel type.

What is displayed on the readout device, be it a gauge or a computer screen, is Lambda multiplied by a conversion factor which is fuel dependent.

If you tell your equipment you are running pure gas, that conversion factor is 14.7. So you'll see 14.7:1 displayed at stoich. You'll see 14.7:1 at stoich whether you actually run pure gas or an ethanol blend or diesel. As long as the mixture is at stoich and the conversion factor is 14.7, you'll see 14.7:1 on the display.

Similarly, if you tell your equipment you are using 10% ethanol, the conversion factor will be 14.1. And at stoich, regardless of fuel type, you'll see 14.1:1 on the display.

Bottom line: Unless you know how the gauge or computer is converting Lambda to a calculated air/fuel ratio, you don't really know what your air/fuel ratio is. OTOH, if you can get your equipment to display Lambda instead, you'll always know if the mixture is lean, rich, or spot on.

Jim

wmf62

the manual is about an inch thick and describes all sorts of bells & whistles and options: but nowhere have I seen the ability to enter a fuel type or correction factor. the O2 sensor has its own separate 'black box' for wide band and doesn't seem to be addressable




Bill

tbarb

Jim,

Do you use the LM2 with a bung or a tail plpe clamp. I am thinking about one of these and not sure what to get because there seem to be so many options.

jim lockwood

When I got my Innovate equipment nearly 10 years ago, the LM1 was the hot (and expensive) ticket. I opted for the cheaper, single purpose LC1 (now replaced by the LC2) which measures only air/fuel.

I've since added 8 channels of thermocouple sensing for temperature measurements and 4 general purpose channels for sensing RPM, acceleration, manifold vacuum, and whatever else can be represented by a 0V - 5V signal.

To sample exhaust gases I use the Innovate tail pipe clamp with about a 15" extension added. Without the extension, I couldn't get meaningful air/fuel readings at low exhaust flows, like at idle. The extension is just soft copper tubing I got at the hardware store and is retained by a worm clamp.

It's my belief that my LC1 plus the SSI4 is approximately equal to an LM1 or LM2. If you do get an LM2, you aren't locked in to using just the LM2. Innovate modules can be daisy chained together via a serial link from module to module. That modular expandability is a powerful feature of the Innovate equipment.

Hope this helps.

Jim

Westlotorn

One issue not mentioned is the ability of the alcohol mix fuels to cause rust in your metal fuel lines.
Maybe we should upgrade to stainless since the newer fuels are all a mix.

richopp

https://www.pure-gas.org/

Just in case someone has not seen this.

I use a mix of VP 103 and boat gas (REC90) in all the 455 Buicks I have done. Expensive, but those engines, especially after a rebuild, need the octane just like when they were new and we used Sunoco 260, which was 102 I THINK...too long ago for this old brain. I am sure someone who has a better memory will correct me if I mis-remembered.

Not sure what I will use in my '66 when it arrives--327/300 w/factory A/C, so we shall see. I will probably put a couple tanks of 103 in it to start and then see where that goes. WAY too expensive for daily use--$11.50/gal.

Cheers,

Richard