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[C2] Front brake calipers....what am I missing here???

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[C2] Front brake calipers....what am I missing here???

Old 11-28-2018, 09:39 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry View Post
I read on the C-3 section that a poster had the same problem. He ended up shimming the caliper mounting bolt. Jerry

I'd imagine in his case, he had the same problem in the opposite direction as there is no way to shim the caliper further inboard because the mounting bracket is on the outside of the caliper. Additionally, you can't shim the mounting bracket further inboard due to the fact that the bottom hole mounts on the back of the spindle while the top hole mounts on the front of the spindle.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:43 AM
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The Zip Catalogue for this kit says a 3/16" spacer might be required. Mine fit perfect however and did not need any spacers
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:47 AM
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Measure from the outside of your rotor to each mounting bolt hole on your caliper brackets to at least see if they are the same (parallel). My bottom hole on the bad side on my car was .006 thousandths closer to the rotor and both were closer than the good side. Maybe switch the calipers and rotors side to side to see if interference is the same. That would at least eliminate the caliper and rotor.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CHANEY View Post
The Zip Catalogue for this kit says a 3/16" spacer might be required. Mine fit perfect however and did not need any spacers
That spacer is for the wheels to clear the caliper. In my case I needed it as I dont have stock wheels. Stock calipers cleared my wheels but the Wilwoodís didnít.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CHANEY View Post
The Zip Catalogue for this kit says a 3/16" spacer might be required. Mine fit perfect however and did not need any spacers
You are correct, but that is in regard to the stock wheels clearing the Wilwood calipers, not the clearance between the caliper and the brake rotor.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 69ttop502 View Post
Measure from the outside of your rotor to each mounting bolt hole on your caliper brackets to at least see if they are the same (parallel). My bottom hole on the bad side on my car was .006 thousandths closer to the rotor and both were closer than the good side. Maybe switch the calipers and rotors side to side to see if interference is the same. That would at least eliminate the caliper and rotor.

Good call...headed down to the garage now...
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:59 AM
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Good deal. And might be a good idea to confirm your measurements by holding some sort of straight edge across the face of the hub instead of the rotor to take any rotor runout out of the equation.
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:41 AM
  #28  
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Greg, I reviewed your post and pictures carefully as I will be converting to disc on my hopefully newly purchased ‘64 coupe soon. I also then reviewed the instructions for your calipers carefully.

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...-140-10789.pdf

Did Van Steel press the new bearing races into the hubs and assemble them? I think a good measurement for comparison would be the rear of the hub (the surface where the wheel studs press in) to the spindle face. Compare yours to a known good one. As I read through the conversation, no shim is going to help you as it appears the hub is too close to the spindle (or the caliper is too far away from the spindle).

The only other thing I can offer is how is the caliper mounted? The instructions show the bolt going through the bracket and then into the caliper. Yours looks like the bolt going through the caliper and then into the bracket. However, I’m not sure how that is possible. Could you post some more pictures showing the caliper mounting and your measurements?

Last edited by Factoid; 11-28-2018 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:04 AM
  #29  
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Additional info and measurements:

Driver side hub face to inside of caliper mounting bracket: 3.97 in. top hole, 4.03 in. bottom hole

Passenger side hub face to inside of caliper mounting bracket: 4.06 in. top hole, 4.09 in. bottom hole

Driver side rear of hub to spindle face (dust shield installed): 1.33 in.

Passenger side rear of hub to spindle face (dust shield installed): 1.33 in.

Mark, to answer your question, yes the bolts go through the bracket and then into the caliper:


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Old 11-28-2018, 11:07 AM
  #30  
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Some additional photos of the spindle/hub/dust shield/caliper bracket assembly. Let me know if anyone sees something I missed. Top bolt is torqued to 110 ft/lbs, bottom two at 70 ft/lbs.

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Old 11-28-2018, 11:09 AM
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:22 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Factoid View Post

Did Van Steel press the new bearing races into the hubs and assemble them?
Yes, the races were pressed into the hub from Van Steel. All I had to do was pack the inner and outer bearings with grease and install the inner grease shield.
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:06 PM
  #33  
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I heard back from Dan at Van Steel. I mentioned to him that the hubs had been torqued to "hand tight" and then backed off one flat on the nut. He suggested that I put a wrench on the hub retaining nut to ensure that the hubs are fully seated on the spindle. I'll go give this a shot in a minute, but am I correct that for final torquing of the spindle retaining nut, its just hand tight and then backed off one flat? I was under the impression that those tapered captive bearings were supposed to have a small bit of run out in them.

Thanks,
Greg
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:13 PM
  #34  
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Spin them while tightening them with a socket. You may be surprised how much they will tighten. Back off, then do it again, then adjust as you stated.

This may be your issue.

Last edited by Factoid; 11-28-2018 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:45 PM
  #35  
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Well, I was hopeful for a minute...then realized that seating the hub properly just moved the hub and rotor inboard, exaserbating the problem...although at least the hub is properly seated now. Distance from back of the hub to the face of the spindle went from 1.33 in. To 1.28 in. Unfortunately, you now cant even slide the caliper between the disc and the mounting bracket



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Old 11-28-2018, 12:56 PM
  #36  
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Okay, let’s look at how your brake mounting brackets are installed. Sorry to keep asking for pics, but...

Is there a part number on the bracket? Just trying to be thorough and ensure you have the correct brackets.

Last edited by Factoid; 11-28-2018 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 01:28 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Factoid View Post
Okay, letís look at how your brake mounting brackets are installed. Sorry to keep asking for pics, but...

Is there a part number on the bracket? Just trying to be thorough and ensure you have the correct brackets.

Not at all, I appreciate the help. If you look back at the pics in post #31, you can see the sticker on the left hand bracket. It is marked BK 1010 LH. These were ordered through Van Steel as part # FB-12E "Bracket LH Front Caliper" and #FB-13E "Bracket RH Front Caliper". They also offer an FB-12L and FB-13L. I've emailed Dan to verify I have the correct ones. I assumed that "E" was for early, or 65-68 and "L" was for later, or 69-78. Of note, when they arrived, the brackets were actually bagged from another supplier (I believe Corvette Central, but can't remember). Either way, they are very clearly labeled BK 1010 LH and BK 1010 RH, so while they may not be the correct brackets, at a minimum, they're on the correct side. I'm wondering if I don't need the "L" brackets in order to run the Wilwood calipers. I'll be interested to hear what Dan has to say.
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Old 11-28-2018, 01:33 PM
  #38  
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Found it....they are actually from Corvette America, part # x2611 for the left side and X2612 on the right
http://www.corvetteamerica.com/part/X2611


Just heard back from Dan....the only difference between the early and late brackets is the bolt hole diameter. I'm all out of ideas at this point....

Last edited by FLYNAVY30; 11-28-2018 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:39 PM
  #39  
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Well I had almost the exact same measurement on mine where the lower bracket hole was the same amount closer to the hub surface or rotor on my bad side. When I pounded that back to even with the top hole my rotor centered perfectly. Does yours have the same interference in the top window of the caliper. If it is better up there then the problem is most certainly in the bracket. It is frustrating for sure. And then I had to grind the calipers as well to clear my wheels to boot.

Oh and curious where you found that 110 torque spec for that top spindle bolt. I couldn’t find anything in the assembly manual.

Bill

Last edited by 69ttop502; 11-28-2018 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:47 PM
  #40  
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Oops, my bad I see your bottom hole is farther from hub than top hole. See if the clearance is the same on the other side of the caliper because your brackets are not running parallel for sure, and I saw how much difference .006 thousandths made on mine.

Last edited by 69ttop502; 11-28-2018 at 02:59 PM.
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