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[C2] Spindles and Hubs question

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Old 11-28-2018, 10:54 AM
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Factoid
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Default Spindles and Hubs question

Are the 69-82 spindles and hubs stronger or superior to the 65-68?

It looks like they both use the same control arms and brakes and the later spindles and hubs are both cheaper and more plentiful. I’m planning my next build and will be updating a ‘64 coupe with stock drum brakes all around that needs everything, is not numbers matching or even close to original and will be heavily modified for performance. Thanks!
Old 11-28-2018, 11:03 AM
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FLYNAVY30
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Mark, I too looked into this when I was assembling parts for my build. Allegedly, the 69-82 spindles are stronger/beefier. Ive never seen them side by side with the 65-68 pieces so I can not verify first hand. I could not get a definitive answer as to how using the later spindles might affect other front suspension components like the steering knuckles, dust shields, hubs, etc so I just went with the 65-68 spindles. I'm not building a race car, and with beefy (flexible) 15" tires, even when I do lean on it, I doubted Id be generating enough load to cause the early spindles to be the weak point in the system.

As best I can tell, they are in fact plug and play replacements for the early spindles, but like I said, I wasn't 100% certain.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:03 AM
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Yes, the spindles are thicker and the bearings are bigger to handle the higher loads of the bigger tires on the 69. I'd advise the newer stuff with disc brakes. And yes the hubs are different on account of the bigger bearings. Still pretty much a bolt on, but I believe the steering arms need drilled out .060 for the bigger bolts.

Last edited by Pop Chevy; 11-28-2018 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:11 AM
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Not sure about 69 but 70 up I think are. They use larger bearings. You also need the caliper mounts and bolts if you make the change.The the bolts are larger diameter. I got mine for the 65 from a salvage yard. $90 for both sides. Knuckles, caliper mounts and bolts, and hubs with good Timken bearings.

Tom
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:18 AM
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Excellent! This supports my research. I will be running 11x18 wheels, so I’m going for the 69-82 to replace the ‘64 drums on there now.

I know I will need the spindles, hubs, bearing/seals, and steering knuckles. I’m not using dust shields, but I am using Wilwood big brakes and I see their caliper bracket mounts directly. Thanks!
Old 11-28-2018, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Factoid
Excellent! This supports my research. I will be running 11x18 wheels, so I’m going for the 69-82 to replace the ‘64 drums on there now.

I know I will need the spindles, hubs, bearing/seals, and steering knuckles. I’m not using dust shields, but I am using Wilwood big brakes and I see their caliper bracket mounts directly. Thanks!

Yea, if you're running that much meat, go with the beefier stuff. I found some of my old notes and yes, if you order all 69 and later parts, all you'll need to do is drill out the one hole on the steering knuckle for the slightly larger bolt.

Any pics of the coupe?!?
Old 11-28-2018, 12:05 PM
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We are still haggling over price. It has some issues, but most are things I was planning on changing anyway, like the rear valance moving from exhaust cutout to none.
Old 11-28-2018, 12:27 PM
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Don't drill the 63-64 steering knuckle bolt holes. Get '69 up knuckles. If the whole issue is putting on beefier stuff for big tires, drilling out a forging can't be a good idea.
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:35 PM
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Hi Mark
As mentioned the front axles are larger on the 69-82, use the larger bearings. There are plenty of them around, so this shouldn't be an issue. The bolt diameter for the front assemblies changed from 67-68-69 as well. Make sure there are no groove on them from a bearing spinning.

The rear outer axles are different between the drum brake and disc cars. If you are going to build more then 450hp I recommend stepping up to Tom's 31's, which I understand are on back order now. The stock 17's hold up ok to about that point but it all depends on PTTRF = power, trans, traction, and your right foot! The 17's will snap off at the base of the threaded end or twist the splines on the mid 70's axles with enough shock loading.

The stock 64 outers have a shorter wheel stud and flange face. The arms do not have the PB brackets or top bump stops. The front rubber bushings are all the same and so are the bearings for the entire 63-82 run.

Last edited by GTR1999; 11-28-2018 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 01:25 PM
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Thanks, Gary, I haven’t gotten to the rear, yet, but great advice as always!
Old 11-28-2018, 02:56 PM
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This is what you want, I bolt on and dial in the rotors but you don't have to.

Old 11-28-2018, 04:45 PM
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That’s pretty! I want slightly larger rotors.

By the way, I used to live in Branford (Short Beach to be precise). Where in New Haven are you?
Old 11-28-2018, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
Any pics of the coupe?!?
We finally struck a deal that works for us both. It is a ‘64 coupe originally tuxedo black with a black and silver leather interior, 365hp 327 4spd. Now painted ermine white with a black interior and a counter exchange 350. It looks like the original 4 wheel drum brakes, suspension and steering have never been touched. The original ‘64 hood has a crack and someone drilled holes in the depressions in a misguided attempt to let water drain out. Also, the rear valance is jacked. Looks twisted and one of the exhaust surrounds protrudes. No worries, both those get replaced. One of our fellow forum members checked it out and ran a scope up the birdcage and through the frame. Both look solid with minor surface rust on the frame. I bought this one given everything that needs attention will get it as part of my plan.

Once I get it here and go through it, I’ll start a build thread. Here’s a few pics.






Old 11-28-2018, 07:00 PM
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Nice looking car, plus 64's have the best interior styling!!
I'm quite biased tho..

Old 11-28-2018, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Factoid


We finally struck a deal that works for us both. It is a ‘64 coupe originally tuxedo black with a black and silver leather interior, 365hp 327 4spd. Now painted ermine white with a black interior and a counter exchange 350. It looks like the original 4 wheel drum brakes, suspension and steering have never been touched. The original ‘64 hood has a crack and someone drilled holes in the depressions in a misguided attempt to let water drain out. Also, the rear valance is jacked. Looks twisted and one of the exhaust surrounds protrudes. No worries, both those get replaced. One of our fellow forum members checked it out and ran a scope up the birdcage and through the frame. Both look solid with minor surface rust on the frame. I bought this one given everything that needs attention will get it as part of my plan.

Once I get it here and go through it, I’ll start a build thread. Here’s a few pics.



Very cool!! As you know, I'm also biased towards modified '64s! I look forward to the build thread...you've now got quite the pair!
Old 11-29-2018, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Factoid
That’s pretty! I want slightly larger rotors.

By the way, I used to live in Branford (Short Beach to be precise). Where in New Haven are you?
Short Beach and Branford point are very nice, we had a summer cottage at the point back in the early 60's when I was a little kid. Grew up near Yale Bowl. Now days are in Fair Haven but I moved my shop to Cheshire.
Old 11-29-2018, 07:05 AM
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I just missed buying a 64 coupe before I stumbled upon my split window...they are fine cars....the only thing I've never liked are the hubcaps (an easy fix). Looks like a fun project with "good bones".....

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Old 11-29-2018, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
Short Beach and Branford point are very nice, we had a summer cottage at the point back in the early 60's when I was a little kid. Grew up near Yale Bowl. Now days are in Fair Haven but I moved my shop to Cheshire.
Ah, fond memories! Do you know Ron Randall? He owns Metal-Morphous in North Haven. Great guy and probably the best auto painter I have ever known. He only paints classics, hotrods, and replicas/kits (mainly Factory Five Racing cobras). He painted my GT40 that was in the Fast Five movie. A great local resource and person to know. That cobra on the cover page of his website is fiberglass coated with real aluminum. Ron has a process where he can coat any surface with just about any metal. It’s amazing really.

http://www.metal-morphous.com/

Anyway, the new (to me) Corvette should be here early next week and I’ll start a new build thread.

Last edited by Factoid; 11-29-2018 at 07:11 AM.
Old 11-29-2018, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Factoid


Ah, fond memories! Do you know Ron Randall? He owns Metal-Morphous in North Haven. Great guy and probably the best auto painter I have ever known. He only paints classics, hotrods, and replicas/kits (mainly Factory Five Racing cobras). He painted my GT40 that was in the Fast Five movie. A great local resource and person to know. That cobra on the cover page of his website is fiberglass coated with real aluminum. Ron has a process where he can coat any surface with just about any metal. It’s amazing really.

http://www.metal-morphous.com/

Anyway, the new (to me) Corvette should be here early next week and I’ll start a new build thread.
What are the basic plans for this one? With 18x11 wheels, I'm assuming flares (and paint), suspension?, big brakes?, big motor? I have dreams of a 327 cu. in. solid lifter LS motor some day if my original ever needs replacing....
Old 11-29-2018, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Factoid


Ah, fond memories! Do you know Ron Randall? He owns Metal-Morphous in North Haven. Great guy and probably the best auto painter I have ever known. He only paints classics, hotrods, and replicas/kits (mainly Factory Five Racing cobras). He painted my GT40 that was in the Fast Five movie. A great local resource and person to know. That cobra on the cover page of his website is fiberglass coated with real aluminum. Ron has a process where he can coat any surface with just about any metal. It’s amazing really.

http://www.metal-morphous.com/

Anyway, the new (to me) Corvette should be here early next week and I’ll start a new build thread.
No I don't know Ron, I will have to check out his place when I get a minute. It's only 10-15 minutes away.

That is a nice 64, I would tune it and throw old school Crager SS on it and drive it as is. 300hp is all I need these days and breaks a lot less parts!

Last edited by GTR1999; 11-29-2018 at 07:48 AM.


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