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Door Fitting on the '63.

Old 11-29-2018, 01:34 AM
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ptjsk
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Default Door Fitting on the '63.

Darn......nothing seems to want to cooperate.

Trying to get the doors to fit is pretty crazy. For some reason, I can't get them to come up to proper height, and it looks like I'll have to shim quite a few shims just to get them to come out towards the surface of the body.

I sure can't believe that opening up the hinge holes would be necessary, but I'm running out of options!

I do have a well informed friend coming over tomorrow. I will attempt to have him show me that there must be another way to get the doors up to proper height (absent opening up the hinge plates.

Pat
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Old 11-29-2018, 08:10 AM
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MikeM
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Did they fit before you took them off?
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Old 11-29-2018, 08:15 AM
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mike coletta
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Has there been a replacement of the nose??
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Old 11-29-2018, 09:01 AM
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Ken Sungela
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PIcs, Pics, pics, help us help you.
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Old 11-29-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Sungela View Post
PIcs, Pics, pics, help us help you.
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Old 11-29-2018, 12:04 PM
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I wouldnt open up the hinge holes.....you need to find the root cause...opening those holes will be a nightmare for you in the long term.

Did you take the hinges off the car and did they go back in the same position that they came off? I cant believe that this is the issue but something is out of whack.....
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Old 11-29-2018, 12:13 PM
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Old 11-29-2018, 12:17 PM
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Hinges were off, and put back in. They do not adjust on the body side.

all body shim count placed back in the same configuration.

It's getting closer on the passenger side as I shimmed out from the hinges, but still can't get it up quite high enough for the body lines to line up.

Thanks for any advise.

Pat

Last edited by ptjsk; 11-29-2018 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 11-29-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mike coletta View Post
Has there been a replacement of the nose??
Fortunately, there has been no replacement of the nose. All panels are original to the car.

Pat
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:41 PM
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jim lockwood
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Hi Pat,

At the rear of the both doors, the gap changes from bottom to top. Even though you put the body shims back where you found them, doesn't the varying gap suggest the body shimming needs to be modifed? I'm no expert on body shims so I may be all wet.....

Jim
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:55 PM
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Pat,

Looking at the pictures I would focus only on the style line, the other areas will level nice with some body filler. The passenger door looks good except the style line on the fenders (not doors) looks like it rides up some. You may have to fitness the style line on both sides of the doors after you get your best adjustment, don't file the door to add extra door shims although I would not doubt if that wasn't done.

If you notice, the passenger side rear top gap is wider than the lower gap so try one or two more shims in the rear above the tire and see how that makes it look and snug the bolt down after any shim changes.

Post up more pics when you have time and go get a Coors light, put some music on and take a break.
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:08 PM
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If your car is on jack stands, it won't be possible to align and body panels. The car has to sit on it's wheels/tires.
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:13 PM
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Listen to Jim Lockwood and Critter1. Was this body removed from the chassis? Al W.
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Old 11-29-2018, 08:09 PM
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Thanks Guys,

it's definitely getting better, still more to do.

Need to get another shim in the back to close the gap as Tim, and Jim pointed out.

Pat


Last edited by ptjsk; 11-29-2018 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 11-29-2018, 08:22 PM
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This is where body filler and high build primer becomes your best friends. After playing with door shims, and adjusting chassis shims and getting things as close as you can -- your just have to go to filler, primer and blocking to finish the job. Even the mid-character line can pretty easily be shifted a sixteenth or so with a heavy coat of high-build primer, guide coat and a long, semi-rigid sanding block. Work either top or bottom side of the peak to the character line with back and forth criss-cross sanding strokes until the edge of the remaining guide coat is uniform and straight across the panels and panel joints. Once it's evened up on one side and then do the same on the other side until you end up with a pencil lead width, uniform character line from the guide coat. If not perfect the first time then repeat. The top of fender to door at front and back just need to be filled and sanded flush across the gap until uniform and feathered out.
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood View Post
Hi Pat,

At the rear of the both doors, the gap changes from bottom to top. Even though you put the body shims back where you found them, doesn't the varying gap suggest the body shimming needs to be modifed? I'm no expert on body shims so I may be all wet.....

Jim
Yea Jim,

I figured I would shim the rear up a little more, and that should take care of it.

Pat
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Critter1 View Post
If your car is on jack stands, it won't be possible to align and body panels. The car has to sit on it's wheels/tires.
No, I have it on all four wheels and onto the suspension.

Thanks,
Pat
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 67vetteal View Post
Listen to Jim Lockwood and Critter1. Was this body removed from the chassis? Al W.
Yes, I did remove the body and had it placed onto a dolly I built.

Pat
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66 View Post
This is where body filler and high build primer becomes your best friends. After playing with door shims, and adjusting chassis shims and getting things as close as you can -- your just have to go to filler, primer and blocking to finish the job. Even the mid-character line can pretty easily be shifted a sixteenth or so with a heavy coat of high-build primer, guide coat and a long, semi-rigid sanding block. Work either top or bottom side of the peak to the character line with back and forth criss-cross sanding strokes until the edge of the remaining guide coat is uniform and straight across the panels and panel joints. Once it's evened up on one side and then do the same on the other side until you end up with a pencil lead width, uniform character line from the guide coat. If not perfect the first time then repeat. The top of fender to door at front and back just need to be filled and sanded flush across the gap until uniform and feathered out.
Thanks Dan. That's just about the point where I'm at now.

Do you recommend a type of filler? I've been using VPA, and that stuff is hard as stone! But Dub had told me to shape it and get it close before it sets up completely, and that did help a lot.

Or, do you suggest to place more glass on top to blend in the body?

Thanks again,

Pat

Pat
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Old 11-30-2018, 12:12 AM
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Don't know about the C2 cars but the doors on the C1 will drop a little at the rear when the glass and all the other parts, including door panel, are installed. Lots of guys enlarge mounting holes in door when needed. Why not, if it helps. The factory guys even had to bend the coupe doors at top to fit.
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