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My engine harness was pretty chopped up. The transistor ignition harness was disconnected and there were several foreign wires in the engine bay including two black wires jammed through the grommet with the copper oil line. When I had the dash out I found their origin. A kill switch hidden under the dash. Okay. I replaced the engine harness.
Today I was ringing wiring and found that key in the START position provides 12v to the starter solenoid, but no other position does anything. I’m now thinking his kill switch was just a cob job for bad wiring under the dash. I hate going backwards!
I replaced all of my wiring harnesses this winter. If I was you I would replace them all with new. You’ll likely end up hours ahead and know exactly what you’ve got when you’re done. Plus it was a lot easier to incorporate my FI, headlight relays and fan relay circuits into the new harness on the bench.
I replaced all of my wiring harnesses this winter. If I was you I would replace them all with new. You’ll likely end up hours ahead and know exactly what you’ve got when you’re done.
trying to be penny wise could make you pound poor - nice job on the battery cables - GV
That truly sucks, and you had the cluster out already, would have made it far simpler to find.
Originally Posted by Factoid
Bubba strikes again!
My engine harness was pretty chopped up. The transistor ignition harness was disconnected and there were several foreign wires in the engine bay including two black wires jammed through the grommet with the copper oil line. When I had the dash out I found their origin. A kill switch hidden under the dash. Okay. I replaced the engine harness.
Today I was ringing wiring and found that key in the START position provides 12v to the starter solenoid, but no other position does anything. I’m now thinking his kill switch was just a cob job for bad wiring under the dash. I hate going backwards!
So, the ignition key doesn’t supply 12v to IGNITION when in the START position. I could use a relay, but any other ideas? I have a mini starter that doesn’t have an R terminal.
Looks good, Mark ! - the elongated holes set it off nicely - what sort of carpet are you intending to install ? loop or pile ? - will it match the curtains - GV
PS: use of the scope ??
Last edited by roadster65; 04-18-2019 at 06:01 PM.
Tell me about it....I'd settle for 2!!! I haven't looked into it yet, but down the road, I may investigate an aftermarket pedal solution for the clutch and brake pedal since they sit so far aft, and have so much travel.
Looks good, Mark ! - the elongated holes set it off nicely - what sort of carpet are you intending to install ? loop or pile ? - will it match the curtains - GV
PS: use of the scope ??
Heh, heh, snort on the drapes matching the carpet.
Actually, no they won’t. The carpet and dash will be black and most everything else silver.
If it is the little screen you are referring to, that is the controller for the Sniper fuel injection system.
Tell me about it....I'd settle for 2!!! I haven't looked into it yet, but down the road, I may investigate an aftermarket pedal solution for the clutch and brake pedal since they sit so far aft, and have so much travel.
I was studying the storage area behind the seats looking to see if there was a way to move the seats further back. Inconclusive at this point.
Got my driveshaft installed today! Fat Boy now has a complete drivetrain. The engine, tranny and rear end all have oil and I hope to add antifreeze this weekend.
In order to get a stronger ujoint and maintain the necessary removable front yoke, I “upgraded” to a 1350 joint and man is it beefy! Gene at SST was convinced it would need to clearance the tunnel but I have about 1/2” all around. You could drive truck through that!
04-16-2019, 11:02 PM
trying to be penny wise could make you pound poor - nice job on the battery cables 
- GV
- GV
