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Sorry if I seem to be Hi-Jacking the thread Mark : ST going back to an earlier post, and I know I've asked this question before and you answered, - but have searched Hi & Lo for additional details on this car and were wondering if you could help with additional info - even tried google the website tiny.pic and came up zero - car just screams "Hot Rod" this and the Picket Racing #7 - Hope you can help - Many Thanks - GV
Mark; Not sure if this is a "trick" of the eye, but the centre of the wheel doesn't seem to line up with the centre of the flare; the gap to the rear of the wheel also seems to be greater than the gap to the fore of the wheel in relation to the body and the wheel opening - Regards GV
You have a good eye there GV. Two other things you should notice in that picture. First, the wheel will move aft about an inch or so as the trailing arms come up to ride height. More importantly, notice how I cut the wheel opening and if you look back on previous pictures you will see some indicators of my intent. I deliberately did not cut the bottom of the body where the sill trim attaches. That will be addressed when I finish the body work. Also, notice how the leading edge of the wheel well appears to come in towards the wheel at the bottom 6-8”. That area will be addressed and while I don’t plan to have the wheel perfectly centered, it will look much better. Remember, I simply bonded the flares where I wanted then so I could figure out wheel/tire specifics. No other finish work was done.
I forgot to mention that yesterday I ordered my TKO600 and assorted parts from Silversport. Gene was awesome to work with and really helpful. It’s free shipping February and I got a military discount which was an added bonus. Last night, FedEx sent me a note saying my four boxes from Silversport would be here on Tuesday! I got to get my *** in gear!
Given my half shafts and 9” Ford diff use 1350 series ujoints, I wanted a 1350 for the front ujoint. Gene says the extra 3/8’s of an inch in width will require some tunnel mods at the front unjoint. More slippery slope work! Not a big deal as I have a bunch of fiberglass work to do in the tunnel and around the car anyway. The tunnel at the rear joint is cracked completely around the tunnel and you can push the tunnel up with your hand fairly easily. I will need to be very careful to ensure the center tunnel plate and trim still fits. Tomorrow I hope to pull the engine and tranny!
What did you end up settling on for an engine? Or did I miss that post....
Blueprint 427 sbc with a Holley Sniper. Blueprint installs the sniper and dynos the engine with it. Seemed like a very fair deal. They are building it now and I should have it in 2 or 3 weeks.
I may have posted this before, but I ordered a Tanks C2 efi gas tank, Walbro pump, sender, fuel filler, etc. from Summit. What showed up was all of that packaged with the Holley Sniper fuel tank instructions and a refund from Summit for the savings over the individual parts. Now that is customer service!
Very cool....after the success of the Terminator on the LS in my Suburban, I'm leaning heavily towards doing the Sniper on my car when I re-do the electrical system next winter.
Hi Mark - I thought you might have some more "fettling" of the fenders and body work to do as you mentioned in one of your early posts - a work in progress, the project is looking good and I'm sure will end up a quality work striven by perfection - I've re-read the thread several times and each occasion discover something new - stupendous effort - well done - GV
Sorry if I seem to be Hi-Jacking the thread Mark : ST going back to an earlier post, and I know I've asked this question before and you answered, - but have searched Hi & Lo for additional details on this car and were wondering if you could help with additional info - even tried google the website tiny.pic and came up zero - car just screams "Hot Rod" this and the Picket Racing #7 - Hope you can help - Many Thanks - GV
I got the brakes all set up and parking brake adjusted at the rear wheels. The final adjustment will have to wait until I finish painting the chassis and install the new front cable.
I did verify that all the body mounts are free. I loosened them all and then retightened them until I raise the front end again. On the seized driver side seat belt bracket mount, I braced a wrench on the head of the bolt in the car, slipped another wrench over the nut under the car and a three foot piece of roll bar tubing over that. Even with the leverage it took two farts worth of torque to snap the bolt, but it’s out!
Once the engine is out I’ll roll it outside and power wash the chassis and engine bay. Hey I’ll take some pictures of the rear on the ground then. Look at me just making crap happen!
Massive meats! I will have to trim and reshape the lower front and rear openings for the front wheels to have enough clearance for steering. Kind of important. Great fit on the front now that it has a rough alignment. I think the rear will fit nicely also once on the ground. Unfortunately, that won’t happen for about a month.
Hi Mark - Car is starting to look very sharp, wheels and tyres fill the fenders nicely - potential to be one of the greatest looking C2 Corvettes of all time - it truly has a WOW factor - just great - Best Regards - GV
Originally Posted by Factoid
I got the brakes all set up and parking brake adjusted at the rear wheels. The final adjustment will have to wait until I finish painting the chassis and install the new front cable.
I did verify that all the body mounts are free. I loosened them all and then retightened them until I raise the front end again. On the seized driver side seat belt bracket mount, I braced a wrench on the head of the bolt in the car, slipped another wrench over the nut under the car and a three foot piece of roll bar tubing over that. Even with the leverage it took two farts worth of torque to snap the bolt, but it’s out!
Once the engine is out I’ll roll it outside and power wash the chassis and engine bay. Hey I’ll take some pictures of the rear on the ground then. Look at me just making crap happen!
Massive meats!
I will have to trim and reshape the lower front and rear openings for the front wheels to have enough clearance for steering. Kind of important.
Great fit on the front now that it has a rough alignment.
I think the rear will fit nicely also once on the ground. Unfortunately, that won’t happen for about a month.
Last edited by roadster65; 02-16-2019 at 05:31 PM.
Since I ran out of steam and now need to get ready for the wife and I to go drinking with friends, I thought I would share my thinking on the rear wheel opening centering question.
There is about 4 1/2” between the tire and the rear wheel well edge. At ride height the wheel actually only moves back 1/2” which results in 4”. In the front, there is currently 2 1/2” plus the 1/2” move to the rear at ride height is 3”. I didn’t catch the opening high enough in this picture, but you can see it in the pictures from yesterday, I will need to remove just over an inch of original fender near the rocker to even out the leading edge and provide a more eye pleasing taper without going too far and exposing the rear edge of the frame. Problem solved!
Since I ran out of steam and now need to get ready for the wife and I to go drinking with friends, I thought I would share my thinking on the rear wheel opening centering question.
There is about 4 1/2” between the tire and the rear wheel well edge. At ride height the wheel actually only moves back 1/2” which results in 4”.
In the front, there is currently 2 1/2” plus the 1/2” move to the rear at ride height is 3”. I didn’t catch the opening high enough in this picture, but you can see it in the pictures from yesterday, I will need to remove just over an inch of original fender near the rocker to even out the leading edge and provide a more eye pleasing taper without going too far and exposing the rear edge of the frame. Problem solved!
Mark: it's not the so much the gaps, although that's a biggie in itself; the centreline of the wheel does not match the centreline of the flare - the centre of the flare should come down in a straight line through the centre of the wheel - what you propose wont address that misalignment - you may have to seriously consider sectioning the flare by 2" to remediate this anomaly - in the attached pic - and this is from using a ruler on a laptop mind you - I took a measuring line across the rear frame rail; the white dot represents the median point of the arch of the flare; then I took a vertical line from the centre of the wheel and this is represented by the yellow dot - whilst in the pic the difference may appear to be small enough to rectify by the method you propose, I fear it may not. - in for a Penny, or in for a Pound - GV
PS: I think some T-Shirts made up emblazoned "Fat Boy" with a pic of the finished car would look really cool.
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Last edited by roadster65; 02-16-2019 at 11:50 PM.
I think what he's saying is that the flare will be cut at the line, and the wheel opening blended something like this, which should make it more symmetrical to the eye....
02-15-2019, 10:56 PM
