[C2] How the **** do you reach the fuse block?
12-14-2018, 01:47 PM
#61
Race Director
Yup - last time I did that was about 10 years ago at age 58+ when I put the TKO 500 in my 67.
No more!
My new place has a lift! :-)
Last edited by tuxnharley; 12-14-2018 at 01:47 PM.
12-14-2018, 02:11 PM
#62
Advanced
12-14-2018, 03:52 PM
#63
I started this string of messages and can relate to the "old guy" malady of wanting to fix-it-myself. I'm 70, and while I've only been wrenching (and problem solving) on this '64 for six months, I've been working on my own cars and motorcycles for my whole adult life. My neighbor started me off as a teenager when he asked me to help him rebuild an old hit-and-miss washing machine engine. Now that I'm old, have many more aches and pains, am better off in that I could afford to pay a licensed mechanic to do my repairs, I still want to do them myself. I'm sure a mechanic could do the repairs in 1/4 the amount of time, and probably not break anything new in the process as I do, but I think when you get to my age it's not a matter of saving the money as much as it is proving to yourself that you can still do it—at my age! I will add that after six months of being inside, under, around, and in-between the various non-functioning parts of this car, I'm getting to know the workings of a '64 Corvette REALLY WELL!
Of course the contortions needed to change a simple fuse in a C2 do make me wonder if the licensed mechanic would just remove the seat and steering wheel first—and charge me the hourly rate to do so—or whether he would ask his wife to come in and reach under there and do it?
Of course the contortions needed to change a simple fuse in a C2 do make me wonder if the licensed mechanic would just remove the seat and steering wheel first—and charge me the hourly rate to do so—or whether he would ask his wife to come in and reach under there and do it?
Last edited by pgiganti; 12-14-2018 at 03:53 PM.
12-14-2018, 04:19 PM
#64
Team Owner
I started this string of messages and can relate to the "old guy" malady of wanting to fix-it-myself. I'm 70, and while I've only been wrenching (and problem solving) on this '64 for six months, I've been working on my own cars and motorcycles for my whole adult life. My neighbor started me off as a teenager when he asked me to help him rebuild an old hit-and-miss washing machine engine. Now that I'm old, have many more aches and pains, am better off in that I could afford to pay a licensed mechanic to do my repairs, I still want to do them myself. I'm sure a mechanic could do the repairs in 1/4 the amount of time, and probably not break anything new in the process as I do, but I think when you get to my age it's not a matter of saving the money as much as it is proving to yourself that you can still do it—at my age! I will add that after six months of being inside, under, around, and in-between the various non-functioning parts of this car, I'm getting to know the workings of a '64 Corvette REALLY WELL!
Of course the contortions needed to change a simple fuse in a C2 do make me wonder if the licensed mechanic would just remove the seat and steering wheel first—and charge me the hourly rate to do so—or whether he would ask his wife to come in and reach under there and do it?
Of course the contortions needed to change a simple fuse in a C2 do make me wonder if the licensed mechanic would just remove the seat and steering wheel first—and charge me the hourly rate to do so—or whether he would ask his wife to come in and reach under there and do it?
12-14-2018, 04:58 PM
#65
Race Director
I will confess, about 2 months after R&R the speedo and tach , and having them rebuilt, on the '72, when the power brake booster went out, i bought a new (rebuilt) PB booster,and took it and the car to a local mechanic (after i painted the booster properly),and said please install this new brake booster. I had replaced the master cyl with correct one at the same time I did the speedo and tach. I actually considered replacing the booster at the same time the dash was out, but didn't. You can replace the booster without dropping the column, using carefully assembled extensions and swivels, while laying under the dash, but not for me, again. $200 for labor, well spent.
Doug
Doug
12-14-2018, 05:38 PM
#66
Burning Brakes
I will confess, about 2 months after R&R the speedo and tach , and having them rebuilt, on the '72, when the power brake booster went out, i bought a new (rebuilt) PB booster,and took it and the car to a local mechanic (after i painted the booster properly),and said please install this new brake booster. I had replaced the master cyl with correct one at the same time I did the speedo and tach. I actually considered replacing the booster at the same time the dash was out, but didn't. You can replace the booster without dropping the column, using carefully assembled extensions and swivels, while laying under the dash, but not for me, again. $200 for labor, well spent.
Doug
Doug
12-14-2018, 06:44 PM
#67
OK. Here's the latest on my fuses and under-dash lights: I've managed to check all the fuses with a Volt/Ohm meter and all the fuses are good. I also used the meter to check the voltage reading on each side of each fuse. I get 12 volts on both sides of each fuse with ONE EXCEPTION. The fuse marked PNL reads only 6 volts. This is of course the power to those non-working lights. At this point I have no idea why it too doesn't read 12 volts. It's clearly not a dead short, but it's likely this is why my clock, radio, and dial lamps don't shine.
Not sure what could reduce the voltage on that one circuit to exactly 6 volts. Any ideas?
Not sure what could reduce the voltage on that one circuit to exactly 6 volts. Any ideas?
12-14-2018, 06:50 PM
#68
Team Owner
If the 6v is only on one side and the other reads 12v, it's probably corrosion on the fuse clips. Pull that panel fuse and clean any corrosion off the two clips at the ends of the fuse. I'd even try a different fuse because there may be some internal resistance at the end cap. If the 6v is on both sides of the panel fuse see below:
Does the voltage vary when you rotate the dashlight brightness up and down at the headlight switch? Almost fully counterclockwise should turn the dash lights to full bright and the voltage to 12 volts. Check that before you deal with the fuses.
Does the voltage vary when you rotate the dashlight brightness up and down at the headlight switch? Almost fully counterclockwise should turn the dash lights to full bright and the voltage to 12 volts. Check that before you deal with the fuses.
Last edited by 65GGvert; 12-14-2018 at 06:58 PM.
12-14-2018, 07:15 PM
#69
Burning Brakes
If the 6v is only on one side and the other reads 12v, it's probably corrosion on the fuse clips. Pull that panel fuse and clean any corrosion off the two clips at the ends of the fuse. I'd even try a different fuse because there may be some internal resistance at the end cap. If the 6v is on both sides of the panel fuse see below:
Does the voltage vary when you rotate the dashlight brightness up and down at the headlight switch? Almost fully counterclockwise should turn the dash lights to full bright and the voltage to 12 volts. Check that before you deal with the fuses.
Does the voltage vary when you rotate the dashlight brightness up and down at the headlight switch? Almost fully counterclockwise should turn the dash lights to full bright and the voltage to 12 volts. Check that before you deal with the fuses.
12-14-2018, 11:46 PM
#71
Race Director
OK. Here's the latest on my fuses and under-dash lights: I've managed to check all the fuses with a Volt/Ohm meter and all the fuses are good. I also used the meter to check the voltage reading on each side of each fuse. I get 12 volts on both sides of each fuse with ONE EXCEPTION. The fuse marked PNL reads only 6 volts. This is of course the power to those non-working lights. At this point I have no idea why it too doesn't read 12 volts. It's clearly not a dead short, but it's likely this is why my clock, radio, and dial lamps don't shine.
Not sure what could reduce the voltage on that one circuit to exactly 6 volts. Any ideas?
Not sure what could reduce the voltage on that one circuit to exactly 6 volts. Any ideas?
IMO, you can jumper it, or just go for new main wire harness.
Old cars, like old car owners, do not work as well everywhere, as they once did.
Doug
12-15-2018, 06:24 AM
#72
Team Owner
I will confess, about 2 months after R&R the speedo and tach , and having them rebuilt, on the '72, when the power brake booster went out, i bought a new (rebuilt) PB booster,and took it and the car to a local mechanic (after i painted the booster properly),and said please install this new brake booster. I had replaced the master cyl with correct one at the same time I did the speedo and tach. I actually considered replacing the booster at the same time the dash was out, but didn't. You can replace the booster without dropping the column, using carefully assembled extensions and swivels, while laying under the dash, but not for me, again. $200 for labor, well spent.
Doug
Doug
Back on topic - 6v on one side of the fuse is wrong of course....many times its corrosion or the fuse holder "fingers" have become too weak to ensure a good connection... Some wrap the ends of the fuse in a chewing gum wrapper when this happens to make the ends larger. I, of course, would never do that
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 12-15-2018 at 06:24 AM.
12-15-2018, 06:30 AM
#73
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2009
Location: Nearby Mayberry in NC
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Crowd Plow For Now
Jist did a dead battery swap, in trunk on 2012 jag.... secret squirrel process. Makes a 64/65
looks like a cake walk.".
looks like a cake walk.".