Dumping The Voodoo
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Dumping The Voodoo
Someone's put the hex on my plans to use a Lunati Voodoo Cam in my '62 327. Had several extra days to think about it, and I've decided to take the advice of some people here and I'm dumping my plan to use the Voodoo Cam. I discussed it further with the machinist and he seconded that this cam would be a little light for the horsepower I wanted.
We agreed on having a cam ground that will give me at least one horse[power per cubic inch from the 327. He is already working with Schneider Racing Cams of San Diego on a custom ground cam. We will still be using the roller tipped rockers and the flat topped pistons...gonna be interesting!
Bob
We agreed on having a cam ground that will give me at least one horse[power per cubic inch from the 327. He is already working with Schneider Racing Cams of San Diego on a custom ground cam. We will still be using the roller tipped rockers and the flat topped pistons...gonna be interesting!
Bob
Last edited by 6T2Vette; Dec 27, 2018 at 11:19 AM.
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Someone's put the hex on my plans to use a Lunati Voodoo Cam in my '62 327. Had several extra days to think about it, and I've decided to take the advise of some people here and I'm dumping my plan to use the Voodoo Cam. I discussed it further with the machinist and he seconded that this cam would be a little light for the horsepower I wanted.
We agreed on having a cam ground that will give me at least one horse[power per cubic inch from the 327. He is already working with Schnieder Racing Cams of San Diego on a custom ground cam. We will still be using the roller tipped rockers and the flat topped pistons...gonna be interesting!
Bob
We agreed on having a cam ground that will give me at least one horse[power per cubic inch from the 327. He is already working with Schnieder Racing Cams of San Diego on a custom ground cam. We will still be using the roller tipped rockers and the flat topped pistons...gonna be interesting!
Bob
Make SURE to tell them you are using Flat Top Pistons as you may depending upon valve lift, duration and overlap have to have valve reliefs CUT into the piston tops...Mark
Last edited by sidepipe seeker; Dec 27, 2018 at 05:17 AM.
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Also make sure they are aware that you’re using factory exhaust manifolds and not headers. It’s my understanding that the vast majority of cam manufacturers don’t do well in this area and that you are better off using a factory type cam such as a 365 or 350 h.p. type cam that were developed for use with exhaust manifolds.Now that you have this realization is the time for you to also look at the value of aluminum heads versus doing any kind of porting work on your original cast iron heads. Don’t get hung up on the horse power ratings of the above listed cams. When you go to the aluminum heads the horse power with the above cams will increase.
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You can get one HONEST NET HP per CID with the LT-1 cam and massaged heads, which are the key to top end power, and the cam will make 80 percent of peak torque at 2000, so it won't be a soggy dog around town. Search for threads started by Dave McDufford and ghostrider20 back in the 2006 time frame for the engine system engineering story and dyno tests. Peak power comes in at 6500 with a useable bandwidth to 7200 with carefully set up '67-up OE valve springs. Roller tip rocker arms are a waste of money. In fact, they will reduce valve train limiting speed because they are heavier than OE rockers. Also check out the "Tale of Two Camshafts" pdf that is attached to a thread started by me.
The above valve train is OE so you have OE reliability and the OE SB valve train is bulletproof. Assuming you have an original 327/340 the mods will be undetectable because exterior visual appearance is unchanged, and idle behavior is indistinguishable from the Duntov cam, and the final cost of the above will be less than what you are currently considering.
Make sure you replace the weak early 327 rods with aftermarket Eagle SIR 5700 or better.
Duke
The above valve train is OE so you have OE reliability and the OE SB valve train is bulletproof. Assuming you have an original 327/340 the mods will be undetectable because exterior visual appearance is unchanged, and idle behavior is indistinguishable from the Duntov cam, and the final cost of the above will be less than what you are currently considering.
Make sure you replace the weak early 327 rods with aftermarket Eagle SIR 5700 or better.
Duke
Last edited by SWCDuke; Dec 27, 2018 at 09:35 AM.
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Also make sure they are aware that you’re using factory exhaust manifolds and not headers. It’s my understanding that the vast majority of cam manufacturers don’t do well in this area and that you are better off using a factory type cam such as a 365 or 350 h.p. type cam that were developed for use with exhaust manifolds.Now that you have this realization is the time for you to also look at the value of aluminum heads versus doing any kind of porting work on your original cast iron heads. Don’t get hung up on the horse power ratings of the above listed cams. When you go to the aluminum heads the horse power with the above cams will increase.
The "327 LT-1" engines I referred to earlier were tested on both a lab dyno, with both headers and manifolds, and on a chassis dyno with manifolds and the OE exhaust system. This configuration can make more torque bandwidth and top end power with a lower overlap cam than the LT-1 cam, but then you loose the SHP idle behavior. The McCaw Special cam will make more torque/power up to 5500 with a useable bandwidth to 6500 on a 327, but it idles like an OE 327/300, which was a requirement for the original application that it was designed for.
Duke
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Someone's put the hex on my plans to use a Lunati Voodoo Cam in my '62 327. Had several extra days to think about it, and I've decided to take the advise of some people here and I'm dumping my plan to use the Voodoo Cam. I discussed it further with the machinist and he seconded that this cam would be a little light for the horsepower I wanted.
We agreed on having a cam ground that will give me at least one horse[power per cubic inch from the 327. He is already working with Schnieder Racing Cams of San Diego on a custom ground cam. We will still be using the roller tipped rockers and the flat topped pistons...gonna be interesting!
Bob
We agreed on having a cam ground that will give me at least one horse[power per cubic inch from the 327. He is already working with Schnieder Racing Cams of San Diego on a custom ground cam. We will still be using the roller tipped rockers and the flat topped pistons...gonna be interesting!
Bob
JIM
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I’m curious which VooDoo cam you rejected.
I’d also like to recommend that before you buy anything, get some engine software that does simulations and run a number of simulations with actual engine and cam specs. I ran probably a hundred simulations varying engine and cam specs before I bought anything. And, I’m very happy with the end results.
I’d also like to recommend that before you buy anything, get some engine software that does simulations and run a number of simulations with actual engine and cam specs. I ran probably a hundred simulations varying engine and cam specs before I bought anything. And, I’m very happy with the end results.
Last edited by Drothgeb; Dec 27, 2018 at 10:34 AM.
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Lunati Voodoo Cam
The Lunati Voodoo Cam Part number is 201-207-10. The machinist reaffirmed it would be a good cam to putter around town in, but it would not give me the performance I was looking for. The guy putting my engine together has worked with performance engines and works closely with the people at Schneider Cams. He told me he had already discussed my engine with them.
I cannot continue to micromanage the overhaul of my engine. He knows what I want. I need to let him do his work,
Yes, I understand I can get better horsepower if I go with aftermarket heads and headers but keeping an OE semblance is important to me. I don't care that someone sells aluminum camelback look alike heads that provide more horsepower, and I'm not gonna get into a shorty vs long header debate either.
I really appreciate the advice and support I've received here, but sooner or later I have to decide what I'm going to invest my money in. Right now I'm hoping to be driving my '62 by the end of January. It will have a fully rebuilt front and rear suspension, new brakes, new 3.55 Posi rear end, rebuilt original radiator, rebuilt Carter AFB carburetor, and distributer converted to electronic ignition.
I still need to decide on a good set of 15 inch tires.
Bob
I cannot continue to micromanage the overhaul of my engine. He knows what I want. I need to let him do his work,
Yes, I understand I can get better horsepower if I go with aftermarket heads and headers but keeping an OE semblance is important to me. I don't care that someone sells aluminum camelback look alike heads that provide more horsepower, and I'm not gonna get into a shorty vs long header debate either.
I really appreciate the advice and support I've received here, but sooner or later I have to decide what I'm going to invest my money in. Right now I'm hoping to be driving my '62 by the end of January. It will have a fully rebuilt front and rear suspension, new brakes, new 3.55 Posi rear end, rebuilt original radiator, rebuilt Carter AFB carburetor, and distributer converted to electronic ignition.
I still need to decide on a good set of 15 inch tires.
Bob
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Can't find that number on Lunati site...or Summit. But I guess it doesn't matter anyway.......
Knock yourself out...hope you get it done.
JIM
Knock yourself out...hope you get it done.
JIM
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FWIW, about 15 years ago i put my old 327 L79 motor (modified) on a chassis dyno.
The block/pistons, cam was stock except the cam was actually an L46/ L82 (962) cam as that is what Chev was putting in their CE over the counter blocks at that time (1976).
Modifications were Chev BowTie heads in 1991, 1.62" long tube headers and full exhaust, and Torker II intake manifold.
RW Tq was 302 ft-lb, and RWHP peaked at 315 HP IIRC. The motor had about 50K miles on the short block,and perhaps 5K miles on the heads at that time. It was a very nice,easy to drive streetable motor,and it was really happy between 2500 and 6000 RPM. That was running 650 Holley that wasn't totally jetted right and I have no idea what the advance curve looked like.
Doug
The block/pistons, cam was stock except the cam was actually an L46/ L82 (962) cam as that is what Chev was putting in their CE over the counter blocks at that time (1976).
Modifications were Chev BowTie heads in 1991, 1.62" long tube headers and full exhaust, and Torker II intake manifold.
RW Tq was 302 ft-lb, and RWHP peaked at 315 HP IIRC. The motor had about 50K miles on the short block,and perhaps 5K miles on the heads at that time. It was a very nice,easy to drive streetable motor,and it was really happy between 2500 and 6000 RPM. That was running 650 Holley that wasn't totally jetted right and I have no idea what the advance curve looked like.
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; Dec 27, 2018 at 01:14 PM.
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315 RWHP is no slouch at all for a relatively mild cruiser with a hyd flat tappet.
JIM
JIM
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Here’s the specs on the cam. I know someone that runs it, very good street cam. Providing your heads are pocket ported, 1 hp/ci should be attainable.
211/219 @ .050”
.507”/515” lift
211/219 @ .050”
.507”/515” lift
Last edited by Drothgeb; Dec 27, 2018 at 01:46 PM.
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Right now I'm hoping to be driving my '62 by the end of January. It will have a fully rebuilt front and rear suspension, new brakes, new 3.55 Posi rear end, rebuilt original radiator, rebuilt Carter AFB carburetor, and distributer converted to electronic ignition.
I still need to decide on a good set of 15 inch tires.
Bob
I still need to decide on a good set of 15 inch tires.
Bob
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The motor was recammed with a ~214* duration at .050" and ~.480" lift hyd roller, 114* LSA bump stick and put in my '37 Ford pickup in 2010.. No nitrous though. Still don't know what the dizzy curve it, but it doesn't ping under load with initial timing set at 8* BTDC..*Under full throttle, in first and second gear, everything of any mass (flashlight, rolls of wire, wrenches) in the package tray migrated to the passenger seat. Not from gear banging, from acceleration.
At 4000 feet elevation.Doug
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If the radiator doesn't leak under pressure, run it until it does. Or until it doesn't cool the motor. I am not sure what "flows pretty well" means. Flows pretty well for a like new rad, or flows pretty well for a 60 YO rad.
Doug
Doug
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Bob
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You can get one HONEST NET HP per CID with the LT-1 cam and massaged heads, which are the key to top end power, and the cam will make 80 percent of peak torque at 2000, so it won't be a soggy dog around town. Search for threads started by Dave McDufford and ghostrider20 back in the 2006 time frame for the engine system engineering story and dyno tests. Peak power comes in at 6500 with a useable bandwidth to 7200 with carefully set up '67-up OE valve springs. Roller tip rocker arms are a waste of money. In fact, they will reduce valve train limiting speed because they are heavier than OE rockers. Also check out the "Tale of Two Camshafts" pdf that is attached to a thread started by me.
The above valve train is OE so you have OE reliability and the OE SB valve train is bulletproof. Assuming you have an original 327/340 the mods will be undetectable because exterior visual appearance is unchanged, and idle behavior is indistinguishable from the Duntov cam, and the final cost of the above will be less than what you are currently considering.
Make sure you replace the weak early 327 rods with aftermarket Eagle SIR 5700 or better.
Duke
The above valve train is OE so you have OE reliability and the OE SB valve train is bulletproof. Assuming you have an original 327/340 the mods will be undetectable because exterior visual appearance is unchanged, and idle behavior is indistinguishable from the Duntov cam, and the final cost of the above will be less than what you are currently considering.
Make sure you replace the weak early 327 rods with aftermarket Eagle SIR 5700 or better.
Duke
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...-gets-answers/
Last edited by sidepipe seeker; Dec 27, 2018 at 05:52 PM.