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Power steering Conversion v2.0 need help with belt lengths
I have an earlier thread outlining my journey with 5 different Alternators and 8 different power steering pumps in my attempt to convert my 65 big block car to power steering. i bought all the brackets and belts from Long Island Corvette supply and the final power steering pump from Lone Start in Tx.... it now looks like everything is bolted in and alignment is good.
Final challenge is the belts from Long Island are either too small (or at the very end of the adjustment range) or too long and I have the adjuster all the way out.
So, does anyone know the actual length of these belts so I can find replacements that are 1/2" longer or shorter?
B-046a - water pump belt - I need a 1/2 shorter one
B049 - the crank, water pump, power steering belt - I need a 1/2-5/8" longer one
B047 - the power steering to Alternator belt - I need a 1/2 5/8 shorter one
I stopped by the local auto parts chain and they said without a make and model, they couldn't help....
The current water pump/crank belt has not adjuster and it very very loose. I know I can unbolt 3 of the 4 upper pulley bolts and finagle it on, but it needs to be tighter.
The crank/water pump/ power steering belt - the power steering pump is leaned in to tight to the crank pulley that the upper inside bolt is hitting the block and I can't tighten it
The Power steering to Alt belt, the Alt adjuster is all the way out and play is still over the typical 1/2 inch of deflection I like
NAPA should have a belt tool/gage that mounts the belt and reads the length. You can measure the width yourself with a ruler or dial caliper.
If all else fails, check phone book in your area for a belt supply company (auto/industry). They have all the tools and gages to get you this info. Quanta may have it on their website, as well as Paragon. I know Paragon did at one time. But Quanta belts for some reason are not always true to published size, so be cautious.
I’m confused about your problem at the local auto parts store. Why couldn’t you tell them what your working on? If your using stock replacment parts then there info will work.
In the same spot, my neighbors would have already called the cops on me for too much public cursing. FWIW, the inner crank/wp belt should be loose. I can push mine under very light finger pressure 1/2 inch or more between the pulleys. Even that loose, it does what its supposed to, BC the crank/wp/PS belt doesn't squeal when the motor is revved. As long as the belts don't squeal, they're tight enough. The alt belt may be BC you have a low HP belt on a high HP alt pulley. Yes, there are different alt pulleys, one for low HP big block w PS and a shorter one for the hi HP versions. Check the corvette central catalog.
For non-stock set ups or mismatched components, I always put the adjustment in the middle of the range, measure the length around the pulleys with a sewing tape measure, and then find three belts that measure that length and +/- 1”. Which ever one fits best I return the other two.
In San Antonio, the O’reilly’s in Boerne is the best for finding parts I need without a specific application.
I would calculate the length of the belt/s that you need by using a math formula. For a two pulley sys, measure the diameter of each pulley, multiply each by Pi and divide by 2. This will give you the wrap around lengths. Now measure the center to center distance, multiply by 2 then add both wrap around measurements. I would do this for the min adjustable position and the max adjustable position. Now you have a definitive length/s to go shopping. Now a multiple pulley sys is calculated a bit different but the principle is the same. There is some good info on this on the net. I used this for an industrial application and worked ok. A rough sketch will help with the visuals.
Brgds,
Rene
Hmmm, being the urban dictionary sats a FLAPS is "The term flap is mostly used to describe any ****, skank, bimbo, man/*****, ..." I'm thinking there is a different definition here on CF? Oh, Franchised Local Auto Parts Store? LOL..... Wow, I keep thinking you all are referring to how the local autoparts stores can "take us to the wood shed"
That said, I went to another local today and not only could the counter guys NOT help find belts by size, the belt checker was broken...... 8^(
But, when measuring the belts with the string method, do we take the outside measurement? Being I do have belts on the car, I can measure the outside....
Hmmm, being the urban dictionary sats a FLAPS is "The term flap is mostly used to describe any ****, skank, bimbo, man/*****, ..." I'm thinking there is a different definition here on CF? Oh, Franchised Local Auto Parts Store? LOL..... Wow, I keep thinking you all are referring to how the local autoparts stores can "take us to the wood shed"
That said, I went to another local today and not only could the counter guys NOT help find belts by size, the belt checker was broken...... 8^(
But, when measuring the belts with the string method, do we take the outside measurement? Being I do have belts on the car, I can measure the outside....
I did not mention it earlier, but if I need a special belt and don't want to rely on help from others, I first determine the width of belt needed. Since there are only about 2, it isn't very difficult: 3/8 or 15/32 inch. Make sure it fits correctly on the pulleys. Then I buy a cheap belt of this width that is much longer than needed. I cut this belt, center up the engine pulleys about mid-way in adjustment, wrap the belt snugly around the pulleys, and mark where the two ends meet. Then I lay the belt flat on the workbench and measure the marked length with a tape measure. That gives me the EXACT dimension length) that I require. I then buy this belt: as I now know both width and length.
Trying to do it any other way is guessing (maybe educated guessing ) but doing it the way stated above is exact. Cost is generally less than a Wendy's lunch.......and I can miss lunch a few days anyway
Rock Auto has an online table of belts by number and that will tell you the lengths. You can go lower or higher based on what you need to do. Worked find for me. All you need to know is belt number (they carry Gates).You can buy from Rock Auto also as their belts work fine.
Nowhere, I have gone to 3 local auto parts stores and they ask for make/model and it get belts and they are either too short or too long..... as you know for belts, they kinda have to be close...
Nowhere, read Avispa's thread too.... many variations and I'm trying to find the right set up..... Avispa, my crank to WP pulley as about 3/4-1' of play which I think is too much
Nowhere, read Avispa's thread too.... many variations and I'm trying to find the right set up..... Avispa, my crank to WP pulley as about 3/4-1' of play which I think is too much
That's about how much play I have in my own belt. What you have now should be ok as long as there is no belt squeal in the forward (PS/WP/Crank) belt when you rev the motor. The WP may or may not be fully and properly driven if the forward belt pops off or breaks, but that's a problem for another day. Where I am now is my back belt seems loose, but it works properly and has never been thrown off the pulleys, and I've revved that thing to 7000 RPM a few times and to 6300 or so plenty. As long as the forward belt doesn't squeal, the back belt is doing its job. This is from experience. I ran my 65 NOM BB without a back belt for years and was never able to get the forward belt not to squeal when the motor was revved. Even a somewhat loose back belt should fix that. I have't popped the front belt or had any problem with it or the pulleys/PS pump, so as far as I can tell the front belt is tensioned ok as well.
Before buying the "loose" belt, I had a tight belt on it, too tight as it turned out. My water pump pulley cracked off at the hub.
01-12-2019, 09:08 PM
Power steering Conversion v2.0 need help with belt lengths
) but doing it the way stated above is exact. Cost is generally less than a Wendy's lunch.......and I can miss lunch a few days anyway 
