[C2] Passenger Side Dash Pad
#21
Team Owner
The only onerous part is removing the instrument cluster to pull the dash frame....everything else is straight-forward...
As to the cluster pull, as the Navy SEALS say, just "embrace the suck" and do it...
As to the cluster pull, as the Navy SEALS say, just "embrace the suck" and do it...
#22
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Okay, I almost have the dash out, instrument panel today. Ordered the L/H dash pad today and clips. Have a couple of questions, power wire to radio has a RadioShack noise suppressor and the backside of the instrument cluster has two capacitors (I think). Can these items be eliminated?
#23
Team Owner
The Bubba tomato juice can line filter go - the noise suppression capacitors can definitely go - they are shot after 55+ years and only worked on AM anyway....
Put 'em in a ZipLok bag for storage if they're original or sell them on here - some people still want them...
Are you going to wind up with one new pad and the other side an old one - I don't see how that will look acceptable ?
Put 'em in a ZipLok bag for storage if they're original or sell them on here - some people still want them...
Are you going to wind up with one new pad and the other side an old one - I don't see how that will look acceptable ?
#24
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The Bubba tomato juice can line filter go - the noise suppression capacitors can definitely go - they are shot after 55+ years and only worked on AM anyway....
Put 'em in a ZipLok bag for storage if they're original or sell them on here - some people still want them...
Are you going to wind up with one new pad and the other side an old one - I don't see how that will look acceptable ?
Put 'em in a ZipLok bag for storage if they're original or sell them on here - some people still want them...
Are you going to wind up with one new pad and the other side an old one - I don't see how that will look acceptable ?
#25
Team Owner
You absolutely can remove the entire dash without taking out the instrument panel and gauges, You just take out the screws that hold the panel to the dash and leave the gauges ,tack and spedo cables conected. If you back the column suport out it will give you a little more room but undoing the gauges and cables is not that much of a task.and its hard to put it back together wrong.and it makes taking out the dash easier
#26
Safety Car
You absolutely can remove the entire dash without taking out the instrument panel and gauges, You just take out the screws that hold the panel to the dash and leave the gauges ,tack and spedo cables conected. If you back the column suport out it will give you a little more room but undoing the gauges and cables is not that much of a task.and its hard to put it back together wrong.and it makes taking out the dash easier
#27
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Finally got the dash out and the r/h pad removed. The clock had about a pint of resin holding it in, got it removed and cleaned up but can’t see what will hold the new clock in. How does it attach?
#29
Team Owner
#30
I’m getting ready to replace the passenger side dash pad and have been doing a lot of searching and reading about it on this forum. Almost everyone recommends removing the dash. Are they kidding me?? Taking the instrument panel out with all those wires & connections! Is that really necessary just to replace the passenger side?
the answer to this original question you can take the dash out of the car without taking out the instrument panel , and you can leave all the wires and cables intact and still change your pads and skin
the answer to this original question you can take the dash out of the car without taking out the instrument panel , and you can leave all the wires and cables intact and still change your pads and skin
Last edited by theodude; 03-15-2019 at 10:56 PM.
#31
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I’m getting ready to replace the passenger side dash pad and have been doing a lot of searching and reading about it on this forum. Almost everyone recommends removing the dash. Are they kidding me?? Taking the instrument panel out with all those wires & connections! Is that really necessary just to replace the passenger side?
the answer to this original question you can take the dash out of the car without taking out the instrument panel , and you can leave all the wires and cables intact and still change your pads and skin
the answer to this original question you can take the dash out of the car without taking out the instrument panel , and you can leave all the wires and cables intact and still change your pads and skin
#32
Team Owner
I’m getting ready to replace the passenger side dash pad and have been doing a lot of searching and reading about it on this forum. Almost everyone recommends removing the dash. Are they kidding me?? Taking the instrument panel out with all those wires & connections! Is that really necessary just to replace the passenger side?
the answer to this original question you can take the dash out of the car without taking out the instrument panel , and you can leave all the wires and cables intact and still change your pads and skin
the answer to this original question you can take the dash out of the car without taking out the instrument panel , and you can leave all the wires and cables intact and still change your pads and skin
If you think you can change the driver's side pad with the instrument cluster in then tell me how you install these two butterfly clips....not to even mention the others...
There is a reason that all of your "searching and reading" of posts by experienced forum members recommend removing the dash frame for this job...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-16-2019 at 09:20 AM.
#33
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I may be thinking wrong but it looks like it may be possible to just unbolt the instrument panel from the dash, leave all the wires & cables connected for support, then pull up the dash out a little then up to remove. Don’t know if there’s enough clearance for that or not.
#34
Team Owner
I may be thinking wrong but it looks like it may be possible to just unbolt the instrument panel from the dash, leave all the wires & cables connected for support, then pull up the dash out a little then up to remove. Don’t know if there’s enough clearance for that or not.
I can kinda, sorta see what he's talking about now - the description was a bit vague...
To wit, removing the dash frame leaving the cluster, unscrewed from the frame, but STILL IN THE CAR - this last part wasn't clear to me...
An interesting approach and the first I've heard of it.....but I'm trainable...
In my case, and many others here, the dash pad frame removal was the lead in to do a variety of other tasks - like restore the cluster/gauges, fix a wonky weld at the top of the clutch pedal downrod, lube tach/speedo cables, etc..
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-16-2019 at 11:39 AM.
#35
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I can kinda, sorta see what he's talking about now - the description was a bit vague...
To wit, removing the dash frame leaving the cluster, unscrewed from the frame, but STILL IN THE CAR - this last part wasn't clear to me...
An interesting approach and the first I've heard of it.....but I'm trainable...
In my case, and many others here, the dash pad frame removal was the lead in to do a variety of other tasks - like restore the cluster/gauges, fix a wonky weld at the top of the clutch pedal downrod, lube tach/speedo cables, etc..
#36
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I painted the dash yesterday, radio panels today. I will say that the condition of the birdcage looks great, not a spot of rust anywhere. Lucked out on that. While I’m sitting around waiting for parts, is there anything in the dash that needs attention, lubrication, etc.? How about the wiper arm pivots? Also, is there any kind of a seal between the defroster duct and heater? Big gap on mine.
#37
Team Owner
Yes you could lube the wiper arm pivots and as I stated check your clutch pedal's side to side movement to see if there is a broken weld....perfect time to install LED dash bulbs ...if not at least swap in all new incandescent bulbs.
Add a bullet crimp connector on that dangerous, "always hot" orange glove box wire (female connector on the power/fuse side of course). Lube tach/speedo cable. If your windshield leaks - a good time to shoot a little sealant in the corners.. Make sure your wiring harness is good and fuse box is fine...
Check if the nylon bushing in your pedal support bracket are installed and in good shape, adjust your brake light switch if needed.. Make sure heater box sliders and fresh air vents operate easily. Make sure firewall insulation is good and tight to the bulkhead.
I don't know about yout heater/defroster question as I have Vintage Air A/C-heater-defroster.
Add a bullet crimp connector on that dangerous, "always hot" orange glove box wire (female connector on the power/fuse side of course). Lube tach/speedo cable. If your windshield leaks - a good time to shoot a little sealant in the corners.. Make sure your wiring harness is good and fuse box is fine...
Check if the nylon bushing in your pedal support bracket are installed and in good shape, adjust your brake light switch if needed.. Make sure heater box sliders and fresh air vents operate easily. Make sure firewall insulation is good and tight to the bulkhead.
I don't know about yout heater/defroster question as I have Vintage Air A/C-heater-defroster.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-17-2019 at 07:17 AM.
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#38
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#40
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