ricks327

Time for you to step away from the crack pipe.

Powershift

Ed:

Don Baker is from Chicago area. His phone number (last one I have) is (815) 498-9522. He is a regular at Bloomington and does a lot of distributor work for others. He is a good guy.

The original can for your car is a #236. Don makes the best reproduction out there, and it is used by all the FI guys. But it is not cheap. But it works.

You can also buy a generic B28 vacuum can from Rock Auto and others that is essentially the same and is cheap. Just Google B28 or NAPA/Echlin VC1810 to find this can part number from other brands...........but they are all the same nowadays and made by the same company which is Standard Motor Company (SMP). I think the Airtex brand is still available. Ebay is another place to look. Be sure to check exactly what you have now versus the B28 specs to make sure you are not going to create an problem for yourself with California gas and engine ignition timing. You can use a timing light and a Mighty-Vac to check out your current vacuum can performance.

Lars and SWCDuke and others have recommended that most folks install the Bxx can for a better fit for their cars based on engine vacuum at idle. I BELIEVE this xx number for your car is B20 or B26 (VC1765), but search the archives for Lars or SWC exact comments and cautions. If needed I can do this research for you when I have more time (Monday or Tuesday) and/or no one else responds. Our New Orleans Saints play in about an hour and I have a party to go to.

Larry

emdoller

dmaxx3500

ok,heres what you really need to do

1.roll the car back inside the garage
2.jack up car to 27'' off the ground,making sure is 2degs up in the rear
3.unbolt body and lift off frame 46''
4.disassemble every nut,bolt,washer
5.strip and paint/replate everything
6.reassemble everything
7.never drive it again,so as to never get it dirty



the car looks real good as is-good work

emdoller

GearheadJoe

Just be clear about the overspray on the hood latches, that happened only on bodies that were assembled in the St. Louis body shop. In St. Louis, when blackout spay was applied to the firewall, the hood latches had already been installed, and they got lots of overspray.

The assembly sequence was different at the AO Smith body shop. The hood latches were installed *after* the firewall blackout had been applied. An AO Smith body should have no overspray whatsoever on the hood latches.

There are lots of subtle differences between the way that St. Louis bodies were assembled and the way AO Smith bodies were assembled. In the early days of NCRS judging, the judging guide was based primarily on original St. Louis cars. It has taken several years to get the AO Smith differences into the NCRS Judging Guide.

For readers who may not know whether their car body was made at St. Louis or AO Smith, the simplest way to check is to look at the trim tag under the glove compartment (assuming the trim tag is original to the car). In the photo below, the characters "A-2409" next to BODY indicate the the body was the 2409th body assembled at AO Smith. For St. Louis, the first character would be an "S".

emdoller

65hihp

Drew Brees will be taking the rest of the Winter off.
The alignment shims should all have squared off tops.
You NCRS guys are completely insane.

emdoller