When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Fresh from the powder coated. Yeah !!! First step Rear suspension all pretty and new. Global West off set trailing arms with completely rebuilt spindle assemblies from Bairs. Test fitting the Viking coil overs and yes I reinforced the lower control arms. Test fitting the a frames with the new Global West Del-A-Lum bushings and off set upper a arm shafts. Front suspension back together. All new pieces including brake lines, fuel lines and ball joints. Added Borgeson P/S box with Ride Tech stiffening brace. Added my garage roller wheels and let it see the sun for the first time In 2 years. Progress is slow due to having surgery on both hands and fitting updated pieces but moving forward. Still need to add sway bars front and rear and brake pieces from Wilwood. Just taking it one step at a time and saving more money �� LOL!!!
I used Global West upper and lower control arms on the front with Ridetech coilovers. I had to mix and match some parts to get the right set up, but the Global West stuff cant be beat. I’m currently now working on the back with Ridetech parts. When I look at your chassis, I almost wish I would have pulled the body. Almost.
Looking good. Curious as to why and how you had to reinforce the lower "A" frames.
I have also been thinking about the Viking Coil Overs.
Woodsdesign,
I'm using the Viking semi coil over setup. The shocks bolt into the original upper and lower shock mounting holes. The instructions state the lower mounting area needs to be at least 3/16" thick. The stock control arms are only 1/8" thick. So for overkill I added a 1/4" plate to the bottom of the lower spring pocket. Now I have 3/8" of metal for the lower mounts. Of course I read the instructions "after" I powder coated my A frames. So after the modifications I had them redone. Who really reads instructions anyway, unless there's a problem. Oops. I'm sure all the coil over manufactures state the same info for safety concerns when using the stock arms. If you have any other questions, let me know.
Chris
That is sweet. Congrats on getting it rolling. I thought I was going to be the only one at that point to be saving for the wilwood stuff.
A
elwood13,
Yeah, don't really think you can beat Wilwood brakes for the money. A couple of my pals are using them and can't be happier. Besides, those red calipers look bitchin with the right wheels. At least I'm going with red.
Chris
Woodsdesign,
I'm using the Viking semi coil over setup. The shocks bolt into the original upper and lower shock mounting holes. The instructions state the lower mounting area needs to be at least 3/16" thick. The stock control arms are only 1/8" thick. So for overkill I added a 1/4" plate to the bottom of the lower spring pocket. Now I have 3/8" of metal for the lower mounts. Of course I read the instructions "after" I powder coated my A frames. So after the modifications I had them redone. Who really reads instructions anyway, unless there's a problem. Oops. I'm sure all the coil over manufactures state the same info for safety concerns when using the stock arms. If you have any other questions, let me know.
Chris
Thanks for the info. I was under the impression that they were a bolt in deal. So, there is more too it then that. Did you weld a plate in the bottom? I am having trouble picturing it in my mind. Can you post a pic?
Last edited by woodsdesign; 01-20-2019 at 08:21 AM.
Beautiful. It is so nice to put together a car without getting yourself covered in grease and dirt. Is there some shielding on the fuel line coming out of the frame kick-up? If I remember, there was something around the line to prevent chaffing. Keep the pictures coming. Jerry
That's a really well thought out selection of upgrades. You will have a nice driving and great handling C2.
Great work. Please keep the progress pictures coming.
Beautiful. It is so nice to put together a car without getting yourself covered in grease and dirt. Is there some shielding on the fuel line coming out of the frame kick-up? If I remember, there was something around the line to prevent chaffing. Keep the pictures coming. Jerry
Jerry,
Yes, there is shielding for the fuel line I that location. It's just hard to see in the pictures. Also the white plastic bushing that protects the line going through the frame is black so it's hard to see as well. Even though I plan on using an LS engine I am going to try and use the stock feed line. I'm going double flair both ends for screw in fittings once I figure it all out. I just figured I'd only have to fabricate a return line this way. At least that's today's plan. The target is always moving on these things.
Thanks,
Chris
I plan on doing the same for my fuel lines with the Holley sniper. I thought about enlarging the hole at the kick up and running two factory lines but I am second guessing that route. I looked at the C3 lines that are paired but they have more room between the body and frame at the rear. One that I saw ran a metal return line on the outside of the frame in rear wheel well. Did you get a stainless or regular factory line?
I plan on doing the same for my fuel lines with the Holley sniper. I thought about enlarging the hole at the kick up and running two factory lines but I am second guessing that route. I looked at the C3 lines that are paired but they have more room between the body and frame at the rear. One that I saw ran a metal return line on the outside of the frame in rear wheel well. Did you get a stainless or regular factory line?
Chris
Chris,
Because I knew I was going to modify the line, I went with the factory type steel line. They are easier to modify. Also stainless lines are harder to do because they tend to crack when you try and double flair them. I live in a dry area so corrosion is not an issue.
Chris
Thanks for the info. I was under the impression that they were a bolt in deal. So, there is more too it then that. Did you weld a plate in the bottom? I am having trouble picturing it in my mind. Can you post a pic?
Woodsdesign,
here are the only pictures I have. I guess I should’ve documented this step better. Been getting lots of questions.
First I made a template out of 1/4” plate, custom fit them to each control arm. There was still a small space between the plate and the arm where the bolts go through so I made spacers welded in to fill the void then welded the plates on. I redrilled the holes in the stock location. Hope this helps.
Chris
Well now I'm starting to remove paint from the body with razor blades. The fiberglass is a little rough from sitting outside so i dont want to use stripper. Im afraid I'll never get it all out of the cracks before painting. this is slower but safer in my opinion. Once all the paint is removed from the rear deck and doors, I'll start fitting my new tail light panel and the GTS, wider by 1", rear quarter panels. So the adventure continues... lots of previous damage to the rear.. another angle working on the top of the door another angle
01-19-2019, 10:11 PM
My 67’ Project Rolls on....
