I’ve seen several threads on this, but no follow up (May have just missed it in my search).

Has anyone actually replaced their fuel line with the body on and if so, what tips do you have to offer? For example, did you have to cut the line where it exits the frame in front of the right rear tire or is there a trick to threading the needle so to speak? Any tips and tricks appreciated!

Here is what I found, which tells me that if I am not having the car judged (I’m not), I can cut and splice at will, add sections of flex line, run an entire flex line, etc. much easier than following this procedure. Thanks Frankie!

“I used most of the stock replacement line, and cut it about midway where it turns and goes up the kickup. there is spring armor around it at that point, so you have to pull it down, and clamp it out of the way to make the cut. Remove the right rear tail light. Using a store bought piece of 3/8" steel tube(not stainless, it's too hard to bend), you can fish the tubing from the taillight opening, into the frame rail, to the exit hole, located at the front of the kick. Now comes the tricky part. You'll have very little room between the body (fender well), and the frame, but you need to pull it out, and bend it at the same time. I got it started, using pliers, vice grips, or whatever, to get the pipe out far enough to make a nice bend downward at the top. You'll mess up the end of it, but it doesn't matter, because you're going to cut it off anyways. You can then get the front section in place, by bending, or unbending as necessary. It will go, but it's a little tricky!! The hardest part is getting it over the crossmember, and under the battery box. What you should end up with is a piece coming out of the top of the frame rail, and running parallel to the front piece which is coming from the bottom of the kick. This is where you'll make the splice(at the front of the kick, and vertical). Carefully mark the pipe where you'll make the cut. Allow about 3/4" overlap for a "swedge" fit. Push the spring down, and clamp it to the bottom section with some small vice grips. Cut the tube, and swedge one side. I sweged the bottom. Make sure you sand the ends a little with some 220 paper or there about. Push them together (this can also be a little tricky). Using a 200 watt or better soldiering iron, and using some liquid flux, and SILVER soldier, sweat the joint. Release the spring, and work it over the coupled area. Spray a little 1613, and you'll have an invisible repair. It took about 3 hours as I recall. Good luck.”

Well of all people, I can certainly understand that point!

Thanks again.

Frankie. Is that you after your car was hit?