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Have you first decided what trackwidth and wheel type you want on the car. A stock trackwidth (or narrower in the rear) lets you run "period correct" looking wheels, rather than late model type wheels.
I prefer stock looking wheels on our antiques, and kept the original trackwidth in the newer suspension install.
Having used Mikes SRIII chassis now on three separate restomod builds out of four projects in the past 5 years, I only have positive reviews. Mike is absolutely trustworthy, attentive, and very busy. His shop is very popular and always full of projects. Every time I have been in it he has lots of new work. To that end, get in line early if this is your decision, I have used the Currie third member with both the C7 and C6 (photo below) suspension. It is a very nice modern set up.
There are a number of tricks to give you more room in the interior, many have been stated here already. Adding tilt steering, smaller wheel, low profile seats and even altering the pedals is an option.
I am one of those guys that likes the modern tucked in wheels, you can always have wheels built to resemble a retro look like these: C7 SRIII chassis utilizing Z51 19s in the front, and 20S in the rear.
I've used 2 SRIII chassis on convertibles, both C6 z06 wheels and have a third (C7 I think this time) about to start being built next week. Inner fender lip to inner fender lip measures 65" on my car (until yesterday when removed the original quarters). Now Mike says he can build it using a quickchange or camaro diff. to a 57.5" hub to hub width (C6) (not sure if that includes rotors). c6 Z06 rear wheels (59mm offset) with a 325 tire stick out ~4.5" past the mounting surface, so 57.5 + 4.5 + 4.5 = 66.5" which is 1.5 inches more than 65", so by my calculations, no they wont' fit without installing wider quarters. I think my calculations are correct, but someone correct me if I'm wrong. If Mike says it can be done, then maybe I'm wrong somewhere. But now AM claims they can get 56.5" width in the rear so shaving the lip of the fender just might work and Roadstershop can do 54.5" rear width (not sure if that's straight axle or IRS).
One more thing regarding C6 z06 rear suspension, I remember Mike telling me to get base or GS rear control arms because the Z06 ones have an extra lobe on them which interferes with his frame. Maybe he has overcome this by now, but better check with him if you decide to buy his frame. Be careful with SRIII regarding lead times. I was given a 4 month lead time last spring, 6 months latter they still weren't ready to build which blew my build schedule to make it to scottsdale. I put things on hold till December and was 2 chassis away from being next up, now 6 weeks later I'm up, I'm told.
All frames are going to flex. When I put the 67 convertible with SRiii chassis up on a 2 post lift, I can't close the doors because the door gap has opened up. This is probably typical of most if not all frames.
Ken,
Maybe you can use my experience for reference. I am just a simple guy working on this one car (and it's a coupe). I can't confirm or deny any measurements, but my SRIII frame with C6 suspension and the ZL1 rear end (all bolted up by Mike's team at SRIII) works just fine with 9.5 inch (on front) and 12.5 inch (on back) 2013 Grand Sport wheels without exterior mod modifications - I have 265 40s on the front and 325 30s on the back....I am sure I can go to 345 with the same rim. I have at least and inch away from the outer wheel well lip at all corners (more at back)....I have tested it with the shocks at the lowest and also as it sits now (I like it a little high)....in the pictures it looks a little higher because I have not gone for a test drive where it should (may) settle a little. (this is my "little guy, amateur" two-cents.)
Photo below shows car low in back (still more than 1 inch clearance). Plenty of clearance in front (at least inch)...want it lower but can only come down (limited by coil over length) about 1/2 inch.
Photo below after "eye balling" camber and up-tick in shocks....it's a little high but should settle when driven...still no clearance problems all around.
Last edited by vjjack04; 01-29-2019 at 03:03 PM.
Reason: problem with pictures
Have you first decided what trackwidth and wheel type you want on the car. A stock trackwidth (or narrower in the rear) lets you run "period correct" looking wheels, rather than late model type wheels.
I think I am leaning the other way. Sure stock wheels on stock cars, but a restomod should scream big rotors.
I am one of those guys that likes the modern tucked in wheels, you can always have wheels built to resemble a retro look like these:
That's a DeWitts Radiator in this one! C7 SRIII chassis utilizing Z51 19s in the front, and 20S in the rear. (It looks like the rear wheel could have been moved back some more)
Thanks Tom, yes indeed it’s your radiator, custom for this build, thank you!
You ought to come visit us up here during the deep freeze Michigan winter, where we get serious about our garage time during the down season. We can compare some chassis’s features. My buddy (your customer Steve S.) has a few in the works with various optioned chassis to consider. Myself though, I am sold on SRIII.
Come visit , it’s only 9 below tonight. The cold causes shrinkage, alloying is to easily fit into these beautiful machines! 👍 Brian
If you want the same quality product you provide... I would at least suggest a phone call and a conversation with Mike. You guys are on the same level and just don’t realize it yet.
If you want the same quality product you provide... I would at least suggest a phone call and a conversation with Mike. You guys are on the same level and just don’t realize it yet.
Building a custom car is a game of compromises. There's going to dozens of conflicting requirements. You'll never get everything you want, so you have to decide what's most important to you and what is not. Wide low profile tires conflicts with having a soft ride and a C2 corvette conflicts with a roomy interior just to name two right off the bat. Any chance we can talk you into maybe starting with '69 mach 1 body or some other larger size muscle car?
The most common complaint I hear about restomods is the harshness of the ride. People get drawn into the look of the low profile tires, cool 18,19,20" rims and low stance. These attributes all conflict with having a soft comfortable ride. One of the misconceptions is if I bolt suspension from a new car onto a new chassis, its going to drive like a brand new car. Simple not the case. Automakers spend years and tens of millions of dollars engineering and designing a new car where every part is designed to work with all the other parts and to optimize the performance all as a system. Taking some of these parts and integrating them with other aftermarket parts simple doesn't give you the same level of performance. If an original car performs as a 1 and a brand new car as a 10, you may get a 6 or 7 doing this.
Its impressive and fairly cost effective to say you have C6/C7 suspension on your car, but the caveat is you need to angle your coilovers at 25+ degrees off vertical which means you need to use a fairly stiff spring. The more expensive chassis makers make their own upper and lower control arms which allow for vertical springs and thus lower spring rates and a softer ride. The quality of the shock is important too. You can spend $900 for a set of shocks, or $2500. I've used the $900 set from Viking 3 times now and have had to change them out for customers who want a softer ride. I still used Viking, but they have a softer version for $300 more. You get what you pay for.
You say you can't fit in a c6 or c7 now, but I would think they offer more room than a c2 How do you fit in the car now? You can drop the floors about 1.5" and use a low profile seat bottom, but that means less cushion so not as comfortable. Dropping the floors will make exhaust routing more difficult if you are going out the back. You can push the seat back maybe an inch by reconstructing the bulkhead behind the seat. You can extend the firewall and lower foot well to push the pedal forward and gain more leg room there. How about a Dan Gurney bubble in the roof? He was 6'4" too. I'm 5'11" 155 and feel cramped, but then I've been driving a minivan for 15 years.
You didn't mention cost, which frankly shouldn't be an issue IMO. This is a car you're keeping to enjoy the rest of your life. C4 suspension setup is out because the wheels won't fit, unless you are willing to use narrower wheels and sell of the suspension you already bought. That leaves C5,6,7 (Sriii, streetshop or Jamison) which would allow you to use the suspension from your donor car. But I don't this will give you the best comfort for reasons I mentioned above. So that leads to AM or Roadstershop and a bump up in price. AM is coming out with a new chassis designed specifically for a C2. But they have their own suspension setup. Cost for a rolling chassis is in the $27K area and that's a straight rear axle. Roadstershop is also priced in this area with a straight axle and up around $33k for an IRS. But I think these two chassis would give you the most comfortable ride.
This is just the tip of the iceburg. There are so many details to be considered when building these cars. Planning and designing can take just as long as doing the actual construction.
Fire away with any more questions.
Ken
Your insights are spot on sir! There are compromises but in the end it is a leap forward from the stock stuff.
My 64 has the Street Shop chassis with the C6 front and rear suspension. Coletta had to massage the body onto it and I have to admit while I love the final product, dealing with the owner of Street Shop was not the best experience.
Before you make a decision, talk to Clint Coffman at Coffman Corvettes in Mansfield, OH. He makes a beautiful frame for C2 cars (419) 522-2246. He is close and I think you would be pleased.
I think I am leaning the other way. Sure stock wheels on stock cars, but a restomod should scream big rotors.
Don't equate stock wheels with just stock cars there, Tom. You never know if under some stock appearing bodywork there might be a lightweight aluminum-intensive structure, drivetrain, and suspension. And under those stock wheels might be similarly themed lightweight calipers and rotors. Big heavy rotors are fine for stopping heavy cars and adding bling, but add unwanted unsprung weight and is usually unnecessary for lightweight street-legal cars.
A component of my lightweight theme was installing one of your radiators. I enjoy the weight reduction, but I also enjoy the black color for a more stock/sleeper look. OBTW, a few kudos your direction. This radiator works so well, even on very hot days, that I'm entertaining the idea of swapping in one of your other models that might even be a touch lighter (in material) and water volume/weight. I might bother you or someone at the shop with some radiator weight numbers and internal water volume/weight questions down the road.
As Ken spoke earlier, Art Morrison has come out with a C-2 chassis. I have attached a copy of the C-2 chassis page from their 2019 catalog. We have a Morrison chassis under our C-1 '59. We have a Street Shop chassis under our '64 Coupe. It is my understanding that Street Shop buys their frame rails and other structural components from Art Morrison. Both of our cars ride, handle and perform excellently. Ken has hit it on the nose about the financial considerations.
I've posted these pictures of our cars before...Here they are again to give you a comparison view of their stance and wheel tuck.
I have a 64 roadster on a Street Shop frame that I bought used. No experience with the supposedly grumpy business owner. Jacked in the usual spots the rear end doesn’t sag and I can open and close both doors.
As Ken spoke earlier, Art Morrison has come out with a C-2 chassis. I have attached a copy of the C-2 chassis page from their 2019 catalog. We have a Morrison chassis under our C-1 '59. We have a Street Shop chassis under our '64 Coupe. It is my understanding that Street Shop buys their frame rails and other structural components from Art Morrison. Both of our cars ride, handle and perform excellently. Ken has hit it on the nose about the financial considerations.
I've posted these pictures of our cars before...Here they are again to give you a comparison view of their stance and wheel tuck.
Paul
I like the 64! Very nice. I spoke with Mike from SR3 tonight and he gave me a lot to think about. I agree with Ken, planning and deciding on how and what is not going to be easy. Maybe the C6 donor chassis wasn't the best thing for me to start with because it looks like I won't be able to use much from this package other than the control arms. No sense breaking this down for just he corner parts. This would be good for someone considering flares and a wider stance. Anyone interested? $22k and it drives!
Ken,
Maybe you can use my experience for reference. I am just a simple guy working on this one car (and it's a coupe). I can't confirm or deny any measurements, but my SRIII frame with C6 suspension and the ZL1 rear end (all bolted up by Mike's team at SRIII) works just fine with 9.5 inch (on front) and 12.5 inch (on back) 2013 Grand Sport wheels without exterior mod modifications - I have 265 40s on the front and 325 30s on the back....I am sure I can go to 345 with the same rim. I have at least and inch away from the outer wheel well lip at all corners (more at back)....I have tested it with the shocks at the lowest and also as it sits now (I like it a little high)....in the pictures it looks a little higher because I have not gone for a test drive where it should (may) settle a little. (this is my "little guy, amateur" two-cents.)
Photo below shows car low in back (still more than 1 inch clearance). Plenty of clearance in front (at least inch)...want it lower but can only come down (limited by coil over length) about 1/2 inch.
Photo below after "eye balling" camber and up-tick in shocks....it's a little high but should settle when driven...still no clearance problems all around.
Hmmm, somethings not adding up here. I have a customer's car here, sriii c6 suspension, 57.5" hub to hub, 66.5" outside rear wheel face to face, Z06 wheels with 59mm backspace, widened quarters and the wheel just fit inside quarterpanel. Mike must be narrowing the wheel track even more now. He's holding out on me, gotta have a talk with him...
Thanks for the correction.
Tom, remember, form follows function. Everyone wants their car to look good, but if you're going to be driving it too, make sure its functional the way YOU want. Let us know what you're thinking and we'll help you spend your money
Hmmm, somethings not adding up here. I have a customer's car here, sriii c6 suspension, 57.5" hub to hub, 66.5" outside rear wheel face to face, Z06 wheels with 59mm backspace, widened quarters and the wheel just fit inside quarterpanel. Mike must be narrowing the wheel track even more now. He's holding out on me, gotta have a talk with him...
Thanks for the correction.
Tom, remember, form follows function. Everyone wants their car to look good, but if you're going to be driving it too, make sure its functional the way YOU want. Let us know what you're thinking and we'll help you spend your money
What kind of ride do those 17" tires give you compared to stock 15" tires? Just wondering since you have less rubber to absorb the road bumps and pot holes.
MikeB,
I think you are asking Ken S the question...but just for clarification, my car has 18' on front and 19" on back...(not been on the road enough to elaborate on the ride....)
I also bought a Roadster Shop chassis over the SRIII for the most part because I did not want a round tube chassis. I also experienced flex when we installed the body and was extremely disappointed. As they say, if the chassis flexes the suspension cannot do it's work. Now to actual driving experience. I have a 605HP LS3 and I have been amazed with the way the car handles. I have driven it hard enough to break the rear free in a turn and it moved in a very controlled fashion, nothing scary. I do wonder how it would be if it did not flex? Nothing but time and money!
01-29-2019, 11:00 AM
