[C2] What Holley carb is this on my '67?
#41
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Thread Starter
Mr. Fufu,
If you want to buy a new 3810, try
If you want to buy a new 3810, try
Specialty Parts Direct
Atlanta, GA.USPhone: 404.416.8757They're listing the 3810 for about $711. Eckler's wants $820 for it. Or, if want to still have externally adjustable floats, you could spend $36 more for the 1966 version the 3367. If there's some good reason to prefer the 3810 on a '67, other than judging points, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than I am will pipe up. I figured from your A/C compressor that you weren't 100% devoted to originality.BTW - I think you're referring to another poster's car (GSvert?) when you referred to the Senden A/C compressor in the photo he posted.
My '67 is a factory A/C car, still with it's original compressor and equipment. I did convert it to 134A last year, so it's not exactly 100% original anymore. I aim to keep my car as close to original as I reasonably can as it does deviate in some ways. For example the carb on my car isn't the original Holley 3810. A previous owner replaced it with a generic Holley 1850, so there you go. When I bought the car I saw a Holley on it; it 'looked' original, but of course now I learn it is not.
I admire the NCRS guys that keep their cars as close to 100% original. Approaching this level isn't probably in my budget, so I'll settle for 'mostly original' at this point. Thanks for your comments.
#42
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Hi Lars, A couple of questions for you:
- Once I receive the new bowl, what will be involved with installing it on my carb? Can the marine bowl be installed without removing the carb from the car? I see there are four bolts that hold the float bowl to the carb, but I wonder if there's anything else I need to remove?
- Do I need to order a new float bowl gasket to install the marine bowl? Or, can I re-use the old one? I had my carb rebuilt about 18 months ago, so the gaskets on it now aren't that old, but of course I'm not going to cheap out if I should replace the gasket!
- Anything else I should consider when swapping in the marine bowl? -Alex
Remove the fuel line from the bowl. Have rags handy to soak up spilled fuel from residual pressure in the line.
The bowl will be full of fuel, so you have to drain it. If you pull the carb (recommended), you can hold your finger over the secondary bowl vent and flip the carb upside-down over a coffee can to drain the primary bowl from the primary bowl vent tube. Once it's drained, release your finger off the secondary vent tube and drain it into the coffee can, too. If you do not pull the carb, find a fuel container that will fit under the primary bowl at the forward, driver's side bowl screw location. Pull that screw out and let the bowl drain into your drain cup.
Remove the other 3 bowl screws. Even though the carb has been recently rebuilt, the bowl will be stuck to the gasket. Tap on the bowl with the plastic handle end of a screwdriver until it loosens. The gasket may or may not tear - impossible to predict, so be prepared to replace it. When the bowl comes off, the fuel transfer tube will need to be pulled out of the bowl. Sometimes it will pull loose out of the secondary bowl, too. Either way, remove the tube, and pull the tube seals out of the primary and secondary bowls. Retain them with the tube.
You will need to transfer all hardware and parts from the old bowl to the new bowl, so remove the accel pump housing, the pump diaphragm and the diaphragm spring. Remove the float adjustment hardware and unscrew the needle/seat assembly out of the bowl. Retain and inspect the 2 round gaskets that seal the float adjustment hardware. Remove the sight plug and its gasket. Remove the needle/seat splash shield, and remove the c-clip holding the float on the float pivot pin. Remove the float with its spring.
Reverse the process to install all the parts back into the new bowl. Lubricate the needle/seat o-ring before installing it, and lightly lubricate all threaded hardware. Lubricate the 2 round gaskets for the float adjustment hardware to prevent them from tearing during float adjustment. Lubricate the threads of the new fuel inlet fitting.
If the round gaskets sealing the 4 bowl screws to the bowl are not in good condition, they will need to be replaced. Replace the bowl gasket if it did not come off in one piece. Spray the gasket with "Pam" kitchen spray to assure that the gasket will come off clean next time.
Once the float and the needle/seat assembly is installed and the adjusting hardware is loosely installed, flip the bowl upside-down and adjust the float so that it is perfectly level in the float bowl. Snug down the adjusting hardware. Install the accel pump, spring, and housing.
Install the transfer tube seals to the ends of the tube and lubricate them. Stick the tube into the secondary bowl, but don't push it all the way in.
Install the assembled primary bowl. Hold the accelerator pump arm lever on the throttle linkage in position, and move the float bowl assembly into position so the accel pump lever on the bowl goes under the throttle linkage pump lever. Do this while engaging the transfer tube into the primary bowl, and then smoothly push the bowl into position to fully engage the tube and to seat the bowl against the primary metering plate. Install the 4 bowl bolts with lubricated threads and the bolt seals installed on the bolts. Use a 5/16" nut driver to evenly snug the bolts down. Do not over-tighten
Install the carb to the engine and hook it up. Lubricate the fuel line inverted flare nut and install it into the float bowl fuel fitting. Remove the primary bowl sight plug and fill the primary float bowl with gasoline using a small kitchen funnel with a 5/16" rubber hose attached to it. Install the sight plug. Wipe the funnel out and put it back in the kitchen drawer where you found it. Do not tell your wife that you used it on the car.
Fire up the engine and check for leaks. Leaks should be fixed with the engine off. Once everything is leak free, remove the sight plug with the engine running and adjust the float level so that fuel will just barely slosh out of the sight hole when you "rock" the car by bumping your body against the fender. Install the plug and adjust idle mixtures, keeping both screws adjusted evenly. Reset idle speed.
Good luck!
Lars
Last edited by lars; 02-11-2019 at 09:46 PM.