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it seems you would be correct, this info is from chevelle forum site
It's important to note that the "CE" designation for replacement Chevrolet engines did not start until 1968 so any year designation in the engine number would be for 1968 and later. The CE block stamp year is the year the block was stamped and not for what year of car the block was destined for since a generic block for fitted engine could be used as a warranty replacement for any number of years' engines, applications, and for cars produced from any assembly plant
The block can't be a 1974 block...it has the road draft tube/PCV boss cast into it behind the distributor. 1968 was the last year that hole was there. Need a casting number off the block (by bellhousing). My $$$ says it's a 1964 block....and it has all the correct, impossible to find '66 AIR and smog equipment. Very cool.
The block can't be a 1974 block...it has the road draft tube/PCV boss cast into it behind the distributor. 1968 was the last year that hole was there. Need a casting number off the block (by bellhousing). My $$$ says it's a 1964 block....and it has all the correct, impossible to find '66 AIR and smog equipment. Very cool.
1969 was the last year for the rear block vent canister, that block casting was 3933180 I bought a short block 327 in 76 over the counter with the crankcase vent provision present. Based on this and the block stamped with CE this a 1974 casting.
The block can't be a 1974 block...it has the road draft tube/PCV boss cast into it behind the distributor. 1968 was the last year that hole was there. Need a casting number off the block (by bellhousing). My $$$ says it's a 1964 block....and it has all the correct, impossible to find '66 AIR and smog equipment. Very cool.
Originally Posted by Vitaminmopar
1969 was the last year for the rear block vent canister, that block casting was 3933180 I bought a short block 327 in 76 over the counter with the crankcase vent provision present. Based on this and the block stamped with CE this a 1974 casting.
here is the casting off the back of the block, im still not sure of what it is.
In 71, they started using the run letter before the year. I have seen it before. C- Chevrolet E- engine C- third run of warranty blocks 1- 71 The rest is sequential. If you look by the starter boss on the bottom, it will tell you the month and year it was assembled.
guess now i can pull starter off to further investigate
It's a service engine from 1974. That sums it up as far as the engine case is concerned.
Further investigation into the origins of the engine block is time spent chasing your tail. What's to be gained?
There is a lot of work to be done on that car. It should be a real nice driver when it's finished.
It's a service engine from 1974. That sums it up as far as the engine case is concerned.
Further investigation into the origins of the engine block is time spent chasing your tail. What's to be gained?
There is a lot of work to be done on that car. It should be a real nice driver when it's finished.
the best thing to be gained was me hopefully increasing my knowledge
yes there is a ton of work to be done, i can imagine the owner will spend lots of time cruzing around smiling and waving
Considering that the car no longer has its born-with engine, what is the owner's goal regarding originality?
I'd suggest upgrading the Powerglide to a THM350. That's a three speed auto, with superior gear ratios. I did this swap into my PG equipped '67 coupe a couple of years ago, and it was a significant improvement.
The PG has but two ratios: 1.76 low and 1:00 high. The THM350 has 3 ratios: 2.52, 1.52, and 1:00 The swap is relatively easy, as these things go. Benefits include better acceleration from a standing start, less 'hunting' between low and high, and more flexibility with a second gear for hill-climbing and engine braking.
The THM350 was designed by GM as a replacement for the venerable PG, has virtually the same length and spline count, etc. It'll bolt right up to the driveshaft, the trans cooler lines bolt up too. You can re-use the existing PG shifter mechanism by using a kit from Shiftworks. They also sell a complete new shifter assembly if you want to go that route.
The other popular swap is to use a 700-4R overdrive trans, but that is more involved, requires drive shaft to be cut, a custom rear trans mount, and electrics to control the torque converter lockup and overdrive functions. I carefully evaluated the merits of both swaps and for me the TH350 came out ahead as it costs about half what a 700-R4 swap would cost. Also, if you're running a 3.08 or 3.36 rear end, the fuel saving advantages of overdrive are less compelling, considering the owner probably won't be commuting or taking long drives on the interstate.
The benefits of a 3 or 4 speed auto are significant, and in my case, going with the TH350 swap really improved the driving enjoyment of my '67.
I can provide my research on the PG to TH350 and 700-R4 swaps, if you like.
Considering that the car no longer has its born-with engine, what is the owner's goal regarding originality?
I'd suggest upgrading the Powerglide to a THM350. That's a three speed auto, with superior gear ratios. I did this swap into my PG equipped '67 coupe a couple of years ago, and it was a significant improvement.
The PG has but two ratios: 1.76 low and 1:00 high. The THM350 has 3 ratios: 2.52, 1.52, and 1:00 The swap is relatively easy, as these things go. Benefits include better acceleration from a standing start, less 'hunting' between low and high, and more flexibility with a second gear for hill-climbing and engine braking.
The THM350 was designed by GM as a replacement for the venerable PG, has virtually the same length and spline count, etc. It'll bolt right up to the driveshaft, the trans cooler lines bolt up too. You can re-use the existing PG shifter mechanism by using a kit from Shiftworks. They also sell a complete new shifter assembly if you want to go that route.
The other popular swap is to use a 700-4R overdrive trans, but that is more involved, requires drive shaft to be cut, a custom rear trans mount, and electrics to control the torque converter lockup and overdrive functions. I carefully evaluated the merits of both swaps and for me the TH350 came out ahead as it costs about half what a 700-R4 swap would cost. Also, if you're running a 3.08 or 3.36 rear end, the fuel saving advantages of overdrive are less compelling, considering the owner probably won't be commuting or taking long drives on the interstate.
The benefits of a 3 or 4 speed auto are significant, and in my case, going with the TH350 swap really improved the driving enjoyment of my '67.
I can provide my research on the PG to TH350 and 700-R4 swaps, if you like.
-Alex
yeah send me whatever info you have, im not sure what i can talk the owner into. he is sentimental about the car being as period correct as possible, he knows the motor has been changed. as many of us are, the cars are an emotional attachment.
That's correct - the 3959512 block casting never had a production application - it was only used for factory replacement of 4"-bore engines (302, 327, 350), was available machined for either small-journal or large-journal cranks/bearings, and had the rear crankcase vent port to accommodate PCV systems. This block is always in demand due to the presence of the rear crankcase vent port for use as a restoration engine.
manifolds look good, tubes are very fragile though thanks
Try very hard to preserve the driver's side A.I.R. tube and the hose, check valve to pump. One year only, 327 only, Corvette only, etc. This is a very difficult part to find.
The 4th photo in your original post #1 shows it pretty well. Note how the the vertical tube for the check valve is plumbed straight up. Same on a '66 L79 car, but completely different in '67 model year.
Last edited by vark_wso; 02-20-2019 at 06:24 PM.
Reason: clarity
Try very hard to preserve the driver's side A.I.R. tube and the hose, check valve to pump. One year only, 327 only, Corvette only, etc. This is a very difficult part to find.
The 4th photo in your original post #1 shows it pretty well. Note how the the vertical tube for the check valve is plumbed straight up. Same on a '66 L79 car, but completely different in '67 model year.
I have a 67 with the tube that is bent as you mentioned but where the tube is bent it broke. still king of hanging there with a hole. is there a way to repair that section, I have tried to remove the tubes but no luck, don't want to cut them off as some suggested.
Are they braised on with solder or? the tube look and feels like copper not sure how to remove them
Thx in advance
02-13-2019, 09:23 AM
thanks
