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Grounding and circuit completion to light the bulb only occurs when the glove box is opened ... the plastic push button extends by being pushed by the internal metal coil spring. Upon full p/b extension, the spring contacts the (grounded) metal housing of the switch, lighting the bulb. When closed, the door contacts the plastic p/b, the spring is pushed inward off of the metal housing, opening the circuit. The internal spring is what makes & breaks.
Larry -- link below is from AIM for metal car, but it shows the same p/n switch, correct way to install the hook termination before installing the bulb.
The ground is at the metal switch face and the crimped center piece surrounding the plunger through the “fingers” around the switch face contacting the metal glove box liner frame.
Granted, the arrangement is the reverse of the polarity of most bulbs’ operation
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-11-2019 at 09:00 AM.
That is correct. My battery is currently disconnected due to all the work I am doing.
That is not correct.
There is no”grounding pin” in this case.
The problem with the unswotched glove box light hot wire is that if it touches ANYTHING it’s a dead short. Z-bar, glove box frame, etc.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-11-2019 at 12:22 PM.
So you are saying 12v power routes through the brass pin on the bulb base and grounds through the center. I understand the ground path through the glove box frame etc.
So you are saying 12v power routes through the brass pin on the bulb base and grounds through the center. I understand the ground path through the glove box frame etc.
Hot goes to the brass side PIN, the ground is made through the silver contact "nub" on the bulbs bottom which is insulated from the sides; again - opposite most arrangements...
This is why the bulb's bottom is facing outboard and towards the plunger...bulbs are not directional...the filament does not care which way current flows.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-11-2019 at 09:46 AM.
OK - I am so **** that I still have my crappy repro switch in pieces so let me field strip this for once and forever: Glove box door closed...spring captured on plastic rod is disconnected from grounding to the switch face plate Glove box door open...spring rides plastic plunger forward to contact grounded face plate via the crimped in metal ring around the plunger This is why the repros are junk. The center metal ring around the plunger will have the crimp let go and ride forward on the plastic plunger preventing a ground for the bulb to light.
That is the right connector - a small piece of hellish design as it is both an electrical connector and configured to physically hold the bulb in by a side pin at the same time.
Its fragile and hokey and once I get one installed and working I do NOT touch it again...which is why I put a bullet connector on the orange glove box light wire (male end coming off the light switch) so I can just unplug the wire when R&Ring the glove box.....
Yep, that repro switch is a mess The whole thing fell apart in my hand as I was trying to install it. It’s one of those parts where all you have to do is look at it and you know it’s junk.
Bought a repro several months ago. Fell apart trying to install it. Finally found a super good used original and, made the wire mods and haven't looked back since. This is the one item you should run away from the CHINA ones...total junk.
02-11-2019, 08:52 AM
