[C2] Oil question in AZ
#21
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: McCloud CA
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What I mean is that true racing oil has NO ADDITIVE PACKAGE for street-use conditions: long periods of idling (hydrocarbon contamination), High temps, cold temps, constant cold start/hot start cycles, in the crankcase for months at a time, etc. Additive packages that neutralize oxidation and corrosion and can hold up to contamination are necessary in a street engine. In a racing engine, with racing oil, the oil is meant to protect the moving metal parts in the engine during the event. This oil is usually dumped out after a weekend, or a race. It was never meant to stay in your crankcase for 4-6-12 months as a regular oil. If you want to use it, go for it. Me---- working in street driven engines for the past 40 years as a professional--- I simply know better.
#22
Race Director
Not sure what your reasoning is here? Diesel oil has lots of anti wear additives like zinc and phosphorous and also detergents to stop sludge build up. It is ideal for older non roller cam engines/flat tappets/solid lifters.
I use it in my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, my 67 Mustang, and my 67 Corvette. I am not aware of any issues regarding its use whatsoever.
I use it in my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, my 67 Mustang, and my 67 Corvette. I am not aware of any issues regarding its use whatsoever.
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)
#23
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2013
Location: McCloud CA
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Not sure what your reasoning is here? Diesel oil has lots of anti wear additives like zinc and phosphorous and also detergents to stop sludge build up. It is ideal for older non roller cam engines/flat tappets/solid lifters.
I use it in my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, my 67 Mustang, and my 67 Corvette. I am not aware of any issues regarding its use whatsoever.
I use it in my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, my 67 Mustang, and my 67 Corvette. I am not aware of any issues regarding its use whatsoever.
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)
#24
Le Mans Master
This debate has been ongoing for several years. Enough to be safe is a relative term. What may be ok for a 300/327 may not keep a 370/350 alive and happy. Spring pressures being a big variable. The number I have heard is a minimum of 1200ppm but can not site a quote. Comp cams tech line told me one time just adding more zinc is not the answer but rather the ratios in the ad PAC that really matter. I think they recommend their own or JGR driven. I have lost 3 engines to flat cams and one in a 73 Vette only had Rotella and ZDDP in it so I'm not sure anyone really has the correct answer. As I stated what works ok for one may not work in another. Just my .02. Not looking for a debate
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)