[C2] Oil question in AZ
#1
Oil question in AZ
Our '64 has a crate motor that on the manual I received with the car, is handwritten "Installed 3/04". GM Performance 350/333hp Part No. 12496968 Vortec. What oil would be best to run out here in the high summer temps? Currently running synthetic 5W/30 Mobil 1, doing an oil change so your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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64SilverbluePhx (02-11-2019)
#3
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15W-40 Rotella T for about anywhere in the country.
I wouldn't run 5/30 in any gen 1 small block. Its not a Toyota.
Doug
I wouldn't run 5/30 in any gen 1 small block. Its not a Toyota.
Doug
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64SilverbluePhx (02-11-2019)
#5
Thanks for the input reno stallion and AZDoug! My bad, it is 10W 30 that was in it. Motor is flat tappets. How much zinc does it need in the oil? Can I go from synthetic back to conventional?
Last edited by 64SilverbluePhx; 02-11-2019 at 03:39 PM.
#6
Melting Slicks
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Yes you can go back to conventional. If you run the Joe Gibbs the zinc is in it already. Or you can use any good oil and Lucas makes a zinc additive that will also work
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64SilverbluePhx (02-11-2019)
#7
reno stallion what weight do you run? I looked up Joe Gibbs and they have several weights... Though I didn't see a 15W-40... thanks again both of you for the help!
#8
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I agree. And just say NO to racing oil for an engine that is driven on the street. Racing oil is meant to be run hard and dumped after the event. It has no additive package for sitting in a crankcase for months and for keeping acids and corrosives at bay. I run Rotella in all my old cars, and have for the past 12-15 years or so, when the ZDDP was removed in most part from conventional motor oils. You could run the Brad Penn or Hemmings boutique oils with great results, if you like paying $8-$12 per quart. I can buy a whole gallon of Rotella for $12 on sale..........
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64SilverbluePhx (02-11-2019)
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64SilverbluePhx (02-12-2019)
#11
I've used the Rotella 15W 40 for years with good results. '57 270.
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64SilverbluePhx (02-12-2019)
#12
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#13
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Doug
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)
#14
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Yep. And the diesel engines running this well-engineered oil typically run 500,000 miles between overhauls, too.
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)
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Run the Rotella 15W 40. It has plenty of ZDDP for a flat tappet motor. I've run it for years in my old Vettes with zero issues. Forget the boutique and "racing" oils. They only lighten your wallet.
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#16
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Not quite sure what you mean about racing oil did you not read the jug far superior to oils with out zinc. Has every thing that cheap oil has and then some. Don't get me wrong I use rottela in my dodge diesel but not my hot rods. Number one cause of cam failure lack of zinc in todays common oils.They took out the good additives some time ago. Probably cause cancer
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)
#17
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Search for threads started by me. Download the oil article pdf, read it thoroughly, and you will be able to make an intelligent decision based on facts, not opinions or misinformation.
Duke
Duke
Last edited by SWCDuke; 02-13-2019 at 11:53 AM.
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)
#18
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St. Jude Donor '05
I think by racing oil he means non detergent?
There is NO perfect oil that will make a huge difference.
i run a wix filter and the cheapest oil for my DD (lsx) i can find. 185k and runs just fine. USed Mobil 1 for the first 60k it was just wasted money obviously. If machining assy and parts quality is good, you arent revving the thing to the moon cold most engines can last indefinitely.
An expensive high rpm deal,upgrade some.
Wiht flat tappet cams having shear strength is more important than just a "slippery" oil. See comment above about bearing load.
There is NO perfect oil that will make a huge difference.
i run a wix filter and the cheapest oil for my DD (lsx) i can find. 185k and runs just fine. USed Mobil 1 for the first 60k it was just wasted money obviously. If machining assy and parts quality is good, you arent revving the thing to the moon cold most engines can last indefinitely.
An expensive high rpm deal,upgrade some.
Wiht flat tappet cams having shear strength is more important than just a "slippery" oil. See comment above about bearing load.
Last edited by cv67; 02-13-2019 at 12:33 PM.
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)
#19
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Even clicking right on your name shows 0 threads and only four posts.
Doug
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Not quite sure what you mean about racing oil did you not read the jug far superior to oils with out zinc. Has every thing that cheap oil has and then some. Don't get me wrong I use rottela in my dodge diesel but not my hot rods. Number one cause of cam failure lack of zinc in todays common oils.They took out the good additives some time ago. Probably cause cancer
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64SilverbluePhx (02-14-2019)