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Agree with doing the minimum, sooner or later its going to get a flaw. at least you are taking it out. The first flaw or two p'd me off but noone else knows nor cares its still just as fun.
How much of the moldings and trim pieces did you guys remove before painting your cars? I have to have my Ermine white 67 Vert painted as the next project on my car and I would probably take off most of the pieces before I take it to the paint shop: bumpers, side trim, grill, lower side pipe covers, lights, mirrors, door handles and locks and aerial (that radio thing). I haven't taken off molding pieces around the windshield or the hard top before and I don't want to bend them so the paint shop can do that. I also don't have the tools for that. The door trim and felt is out of my capabilities also....
I think you pretty much covered everything. I did the emblems, grille, exhaust bezels, door window stainless and fuel door in addition to your list. I fought with the clip tool on trying to remove the outer windshield trim. I may have figured it out but got scared I would bend something. I had to replace my windshield anyways so I left the bottom piece of trim on and removed the windshield first then the bottom piece. If you are not replacing the glass, then I would have the paint shop do it. Keep in mind, I took my car down to bare frame to start over.
I would also go so far as to remove the interior as well as the carpeting and door cards.body shops are notorious for leaving doors open windows down, you will be spending forever cleaning out the dust and overspray.
I would also go so far as to remove the interior as well as the carpeting and door cards.body shops are notorious for leaving doors open windows down, you will be spending forever cleaning out the dust and overspray.
No competent body shop should allow this to happen...
My car was in the body shop for 18 months and none of this occurred....
You can help by providing a car cover to the shop to help them keep things clean....a lightweight cheapie, breathable Walmart $40 cover is enough...don't send them your $300 Wolf custom cover...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-15-2019 at 08:25 AM.
No competent body shop should allow this to happen...
My car was in the body shop for 18 months and none of this occurred....
You can help by providing a car cover to the shop to help them keep things clean....a lightweight cheapie, breathable Walmart $40 cover is enough...don't send them your $300 Wolf custom cover...
mine was 18 mo., one man shop. Ermine white is color but 2 stage Acrlyic. Didn’t and don’t cheap out on the $ of the clear...
Wondering were they able to get the paint ovens in St. Louis hot enough for true reflow or did they rely on polishing more than the steel car part of the plant ?.
The fiberglass material wouldn't tolerate the high temperature profile required for "reflow" of acrylic lacquer, which is why each Corvette got a thorough polishing (from the "bone-line" up) to create the required final gloss level. The steel passenger cars and trucks had their own completely separate Paint Shops in the main assembly building, with oven temperature profiles that matched the needs of the production paint materials without polishing.
What are your thoughts on polishing a fiberglass body??? I do not feel comfortable using a power buffer because of the potential damage it might cause. Although not sure if polishing by hand can have a professional job.
What are your thoughts on polishing a fiberglass body??? I do not feel comfortable using a power buffer because of the potential damage it might cause. Although not sure if polishing by hand can have a professional job.
Power Buffer or polishing just by hand???
it makes no difference what the body is made out of. if you don't know what your doing you can mess the paint up. if you know what your doing your be fine. and what damage can you see happening?
it makes no difference what the body is made out of. if you don't know what your doing you can mess the paint up. if you know what your doing your be fine. and what damage can you see happening?
I agree.. but there is a "middle-ground". I used a dual-action buffer to restore my 60 year old lacquer. It's more than a toy buffer, but less than a full-strength buffer.
The dual action makes it harder to cut too much.
The results with light rubbing compound were very good.
I agree.. but there is a "middle-ground". I used a dual-action buffer to restore my 60 year old lacquer. It's more than a toy buffer, but less than a full-strength buffer.
The dual action makes it harder to cut too much.
The results with light rubbing compound were very good.
If you do not know what you are doing, the industrial buffers can cause significant damage. The smaller, dual-action, a lot less so. Griots has a couple of nice ones. Check them out, as well as the pads and compound specifically for these machines. You can also these buffers buy directly from many tool stores as SD says.
Looks good John! I think White is also the most forgiving color when it comes to imperfections.
There is an old saying in auto paint, “if it ain’t right, paint it white.”
To your point, imperfections are hardest to spot in white. However, as Gavin found out, white is very difficult to match particularly if the original paint you are trying to match is older.
03-13-2019, 12:53 PM
If you do not know what you are doing, the industrial buffers can cause significant damage. The smaller, dual-action, a lot less so. Griots has a couple of nice ones. Check them out, as well as the pads and compound specifically for these machines. You can also these buffers buy directly from many tool stores as SD says.
