Electrical issue
03-13-2019, 05:26 PM
#1
7th Gear
Thread Starter
Electrical issue
First, let me preface this post by saying that electronics is not my best area but here is my problem.
I have a 67 convertible that will not start. Here's what I've done so far:
Engine does crank, no spark
Put test light on ballast resistor and coil with key in ON position, no light
Put test light on ballast resistor and coil with key in ACCESSORY position, does light in both places.
All wires on solonoid are tight.
Any suggestions as to what could be causing this
I have a 67 convertible that will not start. Here's what I've done so far:
Engine does crank, no spark
Put test light on ballast resistor and coil with key in ON position, no light
Put test light on ballast resistor and coil with key in ACCESSORY position, does light in both places.
All wires on solonoid are tight.
Any suggestions as to what could be causing this
03-13-2019, 05:36 PM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
there is anther guy with the same problem on page one
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-experts.html
most of everything to help you is listed in that thread. good luck and keep us up dated
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-experts.html
most of everything to help you is listed in that thread. good luck and keep us up dated
03-13-2019, 05:47 PM
#3
Team Owner
Just to clarify, here's what should happen;
Key in on position, test light clip on ground, pointed end on ballast resistor, light should come on both ends of ballast resistor and on the + on the coil. Key in acc position light should not light on either end of resistor.
Key in start position light should light on the ballast resistor and the + on the coil (it's the same electrical connection).
If your description is correct, you should be able to run the engine by holding the key in the start position after it starts (IF IT DOES). You should also be able to start the car by connecting a jumper from the positive on the battery to the + on the coil. If it doesn't start with the jumper, you have more than one problem. You should always have voltage on the ballast resistor (and therefore the + on the coil) with the key in run position (comes from the ignition switch) AND in the start position (comes from the starter solenoid), both are pink and connect to the + on the coil. Neither should have voltage in the ACC position.
Key in on position, test light clip on ground, pointed end on ballast resistor, light should come on both ends of ballast resistor and on the + on the coil. Key in acc position light should not light on either end of resistor.
Key in start position light should light on the ballast resistor and the + on the coil (it's the same electrical connection).
If your description is correct, you should be able to run the engine by holding the key in the start position after it starts (IF IT DOES). You should also be able to start the car by connecting a jumper from the positive on the battery to the + on the coil. If it doesn't start with the jumper, you have more than one problem. You should always have voltage on the ballast resistor (and therefore the + on the coil) with the key in run position (comes from the ignition switch) AND in the start position (comes from the starter solenoid), both are pink and connect to the + on the coil. Neither should have voltage in the ACC position.
Last edited by 65GGvert; 03-13-2019 at 09:09 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Mr. Froggy (03-14-2019)
03-14-2019, 09:55 AM
#5
Team Owner
Check the pink wire connection on the starter solenoid and the pink one to the ballast resistor from the coil. At least one of them isn't getting voltage to the positive on the coil, either in the start or run position.
03-15-2019, 07:23 AM
#6
7th Gear
Thread Starter
No spark on 67
WE did finally get the car running as we found one of the wires from the solenoid to the positive side of the coil was just hanging on by a few strands and wasn't giving us enough voltage at the coil. Actually ended up cleaning up a lot of wiring issues so hopefully I won't have any future problems (at least along those lines). Thanks for the advice from all who posted. Nice to have so many willing to lend a hand and much needed advice.
03-15-2019, 08:28 AM
#7
Team Owner
Just to clarify, here's what should happen;
If your description is correct, you should be able to run the engine by holding the key in the start position after it starts (IF IT DOES). You should also be able to start the car by connecting a jumper from the positive on the battery to the + on the coil. If it doesn't start with the jumper, you have more than one problem. You should always have voltage on the ballast resistor (and therefore the + on the coil.
If your description is correct, you should be able to run the engine by holding the key in the start position after it starts (IF IT DOES). You should also be able to start the car by connecting a jumper from the positive on the battery to the + on the coil. If it doesn't start with the jumper, you have more than one problem. You should always have voltage on the ballast resistor (and therefore the + on the coil.
Something I would never do...
03-15-2019, 10:00 AM
#8
Team Owner
Neither would I, I was pointing out that the voltage would remain on the coil + with the key in the start position but not in the run position if the voltage from the ballast or ignition was missing, but the voltage from the solenoid was there. Just a test, not a suggestion as normal operation. IF the car started, but died when key released the problem would probably be the ballast source to the coil.