[C1] Voltage Regulator
03-13-2019, 05:29 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Voltage Regulator
1961, 2x4 245, 4spd
Is there a written procedure detailing how to adjust the voltage regulator on a 1961? The specs say a gap of 0.075" and Voltage of 13.8 - 14.7 Volts.
I suspect this adjustment which I didn't make with a new regulator might be the cause of some of the issues I have.
Is there a written procedure detailing how to adjust the voltage regulator on a 1961? The specs say a gap of 0.075" and Voltage of 13.8 - 14.7 Volts.
I suspect this adjustment which I didn't make with a new regulator might be the cause of some of the issues I have.
03-13-2019, 05:39 PM
#2
Team Owner
The procedure is in the 1961 Passenger Car Shop Manual....
Some of the replacement, repro V/Rs are not adjustable though....
Some of the replacement, repro V/Rs are not adjustable though....
03-14-2019, 07:44 AM
#4
Team Owner
That's a much more comprehensive treatise on the old Delco voltage regulators than what appears in shop manuals.... You could certainly follow those setup procedures...
However, if you do the checks specified and the regulator output is within specs, I'd leave it alone and look elsewhere for your problems.. The adjustments can be touchy and take some finesse....
What, precisely, are the problems you're having ?
However, if you do the checks specified and the regulator output is within specs, I'd leave it alone and look elsewhere for your problems.. The adjustments can be touchy and take some finesse....
What, precisely, are the problems you're having ?
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-14-2019 at 07:46 AM.
03-14-2019, 04:44 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
The issue is one I had mentioned a while back about gauges reading funny...i.e. Temp reads 180 at idle and 220 when the generator RPMs up and Fuel reads high at idle and low at cruise. All grounds checked and good and temps checked with a temp gun and its good. The only thing I have really changed is the Regulator. My first look at the Regulator seemed that the Air Gap was around .030 instead of .075 per the factory specs. I'll fiddle with it more when I get batteries for my DMM
Last edited by ByByeAmericanPie; 03-14-2019 at 04:45 PM.
03-14-2019, 05:02 PM
#6
Team Owner
Just be careful of the warnings in your article. E.g. holding down the contact points for a prolonged period with the battery connected and such..
Its a bit off topic but first generation Mustangs actually had a voltage regulator in the dash that kinda sorta kept power to the gauges around 5V - same deal, a set of contact points. When it malfunctioned you would get the similar symptoms, but -- no such thing in our Corvettes.
Just for your info - the ammeter gauge is the main power take off for interior components (e.g. gauges). Power comes off the ammeter and goes to your ignition switch so when the key is turned on power is then sent to the temp and fuel gauges..
It would be interesting to hook a voltmeter up to the black wire at the ammeter and ground and rev the engine and watch for large voltage fluctuations... If you haven't already done it, it would be a super idea to put a 30 amp fuse in that black ammeter wire before you start dinking around with things...
Its a shame that the elderly gent that came up with the C1 solid-state voltage regulator passed on. They were rock solid and I had two and sold them.
There is an alternative solid state device but it is ugly and expensive, did I mention it was ugly ?
Its a bit off topic but first generation Mustangs actually had a voltage regulator in the dash that kinda sorta kept power to the gauges around 5V - same deal, a set of contact points. When it malfunctioned you would get the similar symptoms, but -- no such thing in our Corvettes.
Just for your info - the ammeter gauge is the main power take off for interior components (e.g. gauges). Power comes off the ammeter and goes to your ignition switch so when the key is turned on power is then sent to the temp and fuel gauges..
It would be interesting to hook a voltmeter up to the black wire at the ammeter and ground and rev the engine and watch for large voltage fluctuations... If you haven't already done it, it would be a super idea to put a 30 amp fuse in that black ammeter wire before you start dinking around with things...
Its a shame that the elderly gent that came up with the C1 solid-state voltage regulator passed on. They were rock solid and I had two and sold them.
There is an alternative solid state device but it is ugly and expensive, did I mention it was ugly ?
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-14-2019 at 05:17 PM.
07-27-2020, 10:06 AM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just be careful of the warnings in your article. E.g. holding down the contact points for a prolonged period with the battery connected and such..
Its a bit off topic but first generation Mustangs actually had a voltage regulator in the dash that kinda sorta kept power to the gauges around 5V - same deal, a set of contact points. When it malfunctioned you would get the similar symptoms, but -- no such thing in our Corvettes.
Just for your info - the ammeter gauge is the main power take off for interior components (e.g. gauges). Power comes off the ammeter and goes to your ignition switch so when the key is turned on power is then sent to the temp and fuel gauges..
It would be interesting to hook a voltmeter up to the black wire at the ammeter and ground and rev the engine and watch for large voltage fluctuations... If you haven't already done it, it would be a super idea to put a 30 amp fuse in that black ammeter wire before you start dinking around with things...
Its a shame that the elderly gent that came up with the C1 solid-state voltage regulator passed on. They were rock solid and I had two and sold them.
There is an alternative solid state device but it is ugly and expensive, did I mention it was ugly ?
Its a bit off topic but first generation Mustangs actually had a voltage regulator in the dash that kinda sorta kept power to the gauges around 5V - same deal, a set of contact points. When it malfunctioned you would get the similar symptoms, but -- no such thing in our Corvettes.
Just for your info - the ammeter gauge is the main power take off for interior components (e.g. gauges). Power comes off the ammeter and goes to your ignition switch so when the key is turned on power is then sent to the temp and fuel gauges..
It would be interesting to hook a voltmeter up to the black wire at the ammeter and ground and rev the engine and watch for large voltage fluctuations... If you haven't already done it, it would be a super idea to put a 30 amp fuse in that black ammeter wire before you start dinking around with things...
Its a shame that the elderly gent that came up with the C1 solid-state voltage regulator passed on. They were rock solid and I had two and sold them.
There is an alternative solid state device but it is ugly and expensive, did I mention it was ugly ?
07-27-2020, 10:14 AM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Oh, one additional thing... Looking in the old GM parts catalogs, it lists the proper Regulator to be 1119261, 30 Amp. No problems there. But, the catalog listing says this is paired with a "low cut in generator" Part number 1105947. I thought the proper generator P/N was 1102043?
