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FI distributor in non FI engine?

 
Old 03-14-2019, 07:32 AM
  #1  
jv04
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Default FI distributor in non FI engine?

Will an FI distributor fit and work in a non-FI engine?

I want to start tuning my FI distributor for my 300 hp engine. To that end, if I can install the FI distributor in my engine with the cast iron intake and carb, that would make life so much easier.

So, will my 1111063 FI distributor physically fit, and correctly operate, in my 300 hp cast iron intake manifold.

I will connect the oiling lines to the FI distributor.

Also, my 1111063 distributor has the following parts (that I can identify):

CAM - 724 CCW
Vacuum Advance Canister - MS 236 16 (1116236 part number) - correct for a 1964 FI engine

A 64 300hp engine would have (I believe) the following

CAM - (part number 1966686) 524 CCW
Vacuum Advance Canister - 1116163 - MS 163 16

One suggestion for a CAM is 1935632 730 CCW. This part is supposedly a correct application for 1964-1965 Corvette FI engines (ex. TI).

Assuming I can use the FI distributor, I plan to start with it as is, and go from there.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:16 AM
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jim lockwood
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Originally Posted by jv04 View Post
Will an FI distributor fit and work in a non-FI engine?
Yep. Drops right in.
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:49 AM
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SWCDuke
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The best spark advance map for a 327/300 is the '66-67 version, other than installing lighter springs to bring the centrifugal in earlier. Didn't I state this in one of your other threads? You need a 730 CCW cam assembly and a 15" B22 current replacement VAC. The ...163 VAC is a poorly thought out replacement. It may take as much as 19" to fully deploy, so it doesn't even pass the Two-Inch Rule for a 300 HP engine with an OE equivalent camshaft.

The '63 FI cam assembly is 724 CCW and I believe this carried over to '64-'65, but had lighter springs to bring all the advance in at 2350 rather than 4600. The 730 CCW cam assembly with the light springs will probably yield 30 @ 3000, and as long as the CR is no to too high should tolerate 8-10 initial without detonation.

The last two digits in the cam assembly ID is the maximum advance.

Duke
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jv04 View Post
Will an FI distributor fit and work in a non-FI engine?

I want to start tuning my FI distributor for my 300 hp engine. To that end, if I can install the FI distributor in my engine with the cast iron intake and carb, that would make life so much easier.

So, will my 1111063 FI distributor physically fit, and correctly operate, in my 300 hp cast iron intake manifold.

I will connect the oiling lines to the FI distributor.

Also, my 1111063 distributor has the following parts (that I can identify):

CAM - 724 CCW
Vacuum Advance Canister - MS 236 16 (1116236 part number) - correct for a 1964 FI engine

A 64 300hp engine would have (I believe) the following

CAM - (part number 1966686) 524 CCW
Vacuum Advance Canister - 1116163 - MS 163 16

One suggestion for a CAM is 1935632 730 CCW. This part is supposedly a correct application for 1964-1965 Corvette FI engines (ex. TI).

Assuming I can use the FI distributor, I plan to start with it as is, and go from there.
Just for information, ALLLLLLLLLLLLLL small block and big block (NOT W-motor) distributors are interchangeable. The differences are in the internals (springs, weights, football, vac adv, etc).
Oh ya, and for the person that is going to jump in here with an exception, the Tall Deck BB (truck) distributors are different.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:14 PM
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Chuck Gongloff
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Ed, wouldn't it be a lot easier on you to find someone with a Sun distributor machine?
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff View Post
Ed, wouldn't it be a lot easier on you to find someone with a Sun distributor machine?
Everyone I know is looking for those. I used to see them alongside engine analyzers at swaps. Should have grabbed one. But yes, that would be the best way I'd think.

Dan
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin View Post
Everyone I know is looking for those. I used to see them alongside engine analyzers at swaps. Should have grabbed one. But yes, that would be the best way I'd think.

Dan
There is a guy in mustang, OK that has both in his garage.



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Old 03-14-2019, 01:29 PM
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Chuck Gongloff
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Originally Posted by dplotkin View Post
Everyone I know is looking for those. I used to see them alongside engine analyzers at swaps. Should have grabbed one. But yes, that would be the best way I'd think.

Dan
e

i must be lucky. I had several friends back in Maryland who had them. I have two friends/neighbors here in Florida who have them.

One lives about 1/4 mile away, the other about 1.5 miles away.

“Seek and ye shall find”. 😀. Someone in your neck of the woods has one.
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:42 PM
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I don't know of anyone that has one of these machines.

I thought about send the distributor off to someone that has one and get it tuned, but then I thought "tuned to what?"

That is why I figure my 300 hp engine is the best tuning machine available, assuming the distributor will not cause any damage.
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:20 PM
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Now would also be a good time to see if the cam gear on the distributor shaft is oriented correctly to you engine. It may need to be be changed, depending on how your tach/fuel pump cables align. Ligning the rotor The factory alignment may be wrong if your engine has had a cam change.

Also a good time to adjust The window in the distribbutor cap to adjust the points. If the window winds up right behind the plenum, facing staight ahead, it's tough to get and adjustment too in the cap.

Last edited by MikeM; 03-14-2019 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jv04 View Post

I thought about send the distributor off to someone that has one and get it tuned, but then I thought "tuned to what?"

That is why I figure my 300 hp engine is the best tuning machine available, assuming the distributor will not cause any damage.
Tuned to 300HP specs.
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:48 PM
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Do not remember his name but there is a guy on ebay from Florida that rebuilds dist and has a sun machine. Maybe Florida guys would know of him.
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Old 03-15-2019, 11:40 AM
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The one area I an still not sure about is the football on the distributor main shaft. I am not sure if the football of an 063 distributor would be an "issue" when used on a 300 hp engine. The cam, advance weights, and advance springs will be changed as appropriate, but I do not want to make any "permanent" modifications to this distributor.

I have not yet compared the football in the 063 with the football in the original 1111024 distributor currently installed in my engine.

Any thoughts on this football issue?
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Old 03-15-2019, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff View Post
Tuned to 300HP specs.
The 300 HP spark advance map is far from optimum for all years and there are four different versions - '62-'63, '64, '65, and '66-67. The last is best but still needs a little work.

Centrifugal: start @ 700, 30 @ 5100
12" VAC: 0 @ 6", 16 @ 12"

A 730 CCW cam assembly should provide the full 30 degrees, but use the silver or gold springs from the Mr. Gasket 928G spring kit to bring it all in at 3000-3500. The 12" VAC was used to accommodate the lower idling in Drive manifold vacuum with Powerglide. For a manual trans use a 15" B22.

It's that simple, and this spark advance map is proven for both stock 300 HP engines and the "Special 300 HP" config. with the McCagh Special camshaft. Search for threads started by me and read the "Tale of Two Camshafts" article for more details and test results.

Compression ratio with the 300 HP cam should be limited to 10:1 with 93 PON fuel and reduce 0.1 point for each point reduction from 93 PON for the readily available premium fuel. The McCagh Special will tolerate 10.25 on 93 and reduce as above for lower available PON.

Duke
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jv04 View Post


Any thoughts on this football issue?
Don't worry about the football. It has an effect on the rate of centrifugal advance, but that's not a big deal. There are many footballs, which are why there are so many shaft numbers, and the only way to see the effect is procure all and test, which would be expensive and take many hours to accomplish.

Install a 730 CCW cam assembly and follow my prior advice on springs and VAC, and you'll be in the ballpark. Set total WOT advance as high in the 36-40 range as the engine will tolerate without detonation. You'll figure that out once the engine is in the car and you can do real world road testing.

Duke
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SWCDuke View Post
Don't worry about the football. It has an effect on the rate of centrifugal advance, but that's not a big deal. There are many footballs, which are why there are so many shaft numbers, and the only way to see the effect is procure all and test, which would be expensive and take many hours to accomplish.

Install a 730 CCW cam assembly and follow my prior advice on springs and VAC, and you'll be in the ballpark. Set total WOT advance as high in the 36-40 range as the engine will tolerate without detonation. You'll figure that out once the engine is in the car and you can do real world road testing.

Duke
Many thanks Duke.

FYI: My car is a 300hp, 4 speed car with a 3.55 rear end. It has power steering, power brakes, and Vintage Air A/C installed as well.

Not sure if any of this is pertinent, but just wanted to make sure all of the info was specified.

Last edited by jv04; 03-15-2019 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 03-15-2019, 12:33 PM
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300hp should have 54 stamped on top of football.
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Old 03-15-2019, 11:36 PM
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This isn't a moon shot.
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:14 AM
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Don Baker in Ill. Is the man to see for FI Dist. restoration
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM View Post
This isn't a moon shot.
Good thing, since we are aiming for Mars.
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