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Anyone have a recommendation (specific part number) for a McLeod clutch kit for my recently rebuilt/balanced 427/425 L-72? 10 spline? McLeod 75009 or 75221, both available from Summit..Any comments on experience would be welcome also.
You missed a whole thread about their RST twin disk clutches last week. Unless you have a real M22 trans, the clutch is 10 spline. The street level kit should be enough for a reasonably stock L72.
You need an 11 inch x 1 /8 10 spline disk, their kit no. 75024.
The 75009 is a 10.5 inch/fine spine clutch and you should have an 11 inch clutch. Can you confirm that Tom? The 75221 uses a fine spline disc also which you don't have. I'll see if I can find what I used.
I was running the organic disc for years which our local speed shop recommended. When I installed my M22W transmission I called McLeod tech line and they insisted that I use the dual face disc because of my built up motor. Both have worked fine for me. The latest one with the dual face disc seems to release/engage with a little shorter pedal stroke but isn't abrupt. I have plenty of room for adjustment in the car.
The dual disc clutch is nice but, especially if you want lower pedal pressure - but it's pricey.
Thanks guys, exactly the kind of information I was looking for.Yes, I have read several threads on clutch issues including the one posted by LARS. There were so many different opinions on clutches and technical tuning that I couldn't come to any conclusions.
Guess I could have called Summit and asked them, but I especially value the opinions of this forum and I haven't been steered wrong yet in this exhausting restoration of a basket case car. Thanks to Dan especially for being so patient with me.
Last edited by Tcheairs38655; 03-18-2019 at 10:12 PM.
Thanks again guys. Ordered the 75224. Should have some feedback in about a week. Now, on to the next gremlin. Parking brake cable is frozen, won't budge, and I have no idea what's inside the hub yet.
FWIW, it is possible to remove and replace all the parking brake guts without pulling the spindle out of the bearing support. If you have factory rivets holding the rotors to the spindles and want to keep it factory, you will need to pull the rotor/spindle assemblies for access to the guts. If the rivets are already drilled out, missing or you don't care, just pull the brake caliper and rotor for access. Disassembly is easy. Putting the shoe retaining spring "caps" on through the access holes in the spindle flange is a gigantic PITA. Did it once and hope to die before doing it again.
FWIW, it is possible to remove and replace all the parking brake guts without pulling the spindle out of the bearing support. If you have factory rivets holding the rotors to the spindles and want to keep it factory, you will need to pull the rotor/spindle assemblies for access to the guts. If the rivets are already drilled out, missing or you don't care, just pull the brake caliper and rotor for access. Disassembly is easy. Putting the shoe retaining spring "caps" on through the access holes in the spindle flange is a gigantic PITA. Did it once and hope to die before doing it again.
That job cost me big $$$$$ in dental bills after I got mad, was grinding my teeth, and broke a tooth cap. Needed about 4 replacement caps to get proper color match. But I learned from the experience, and can now do it without a big hassle. But the first time is not a job for the faint hearted.
Gary R has a nice touch on the trailing arms he rebuilds. Rather than riveting the rotors back as standard, he drills and countersinks the rotors and taps the spindles to accept flat head tapered machine screws where the rivets should normally be. Looks great, holds the rotor steady under all conditions, and is removable if you ever need to remove the rotor again. I went with Bairs at the time and got new rivets as part of the job, but Gary R method (and his TA rebuild) is probably better. Somewhere in the CF archives are how he does this work including pics.
Try this link and scroll down to Post #3. This is not Gary's pic video that I mentioned earlier, but does show the same technique and final product. It really is the way to go for folks that work on their cars and still want a high quality look.
Had my mechanic install a new McLeod Super Street Pro MCL 75224 clutch kit. Came complete with throwout bearing. Inspection of the flywheel indicated that it had been resurfaced with the rebuild of the engine just a few months ago and looked good to the naked eye although it was not checked on any kind of machine. My mechanic charged me $600 labor for the install and the clutch kit cost $300. Everything is back together and I still have the shudder when I ride the clutch to maneuver the car. It may even be a little worse now. So, with all of this done is it fair for me to assume that it is a problem with the flywheel?Thanks,
There seems to be quite a few issues with clutch chatter lately , and it seems to me that the folks doing the work are missing a step or two, to the naked eye is not good enough, flywheel should have been checked for flatness, I take a steel ruler and lay it across the flywheel on edge, it will be very apparent if the FW is not flat. And there are those who have the FW and PP balanced as a unit, I personally have never done that but it seems given the quality of manufacture lately it would be wise to have it done. have you driven the car out of first gear? where is the clutch catching high or low pedal .
It could be a flywheel issue Tom. However, you have made a couple references to "riding the clutch" that could also be contributing. I know there has to be some of that once in awhile maneuvering a car and on a hill. With a new clutch I think I would find a back road and do some normal starts with it and then a few with a bit more rpms and a little more abrupt clutch release to let the clutch grab a little harder. Not talking about a burnout or anything - just bring the revs up and let the clutch out quickly and go. If it's still shuddering/chattering after a good break in then I would be suspicious of the flywheel or clutch disc splines catching on input shaft or something.
Were any pictures taken of the flywheel surface when the old clutch was removed? Do you have the old clutch - if so, take a picture of the plate surface and post it.
Here are 2 photos of the flywheel when we took it out. I'm going to go get the (new) former Rhino clutch which was removed and take some pictures of it and post them too.
Last edited by Tcheairs38655; 04-04-2019 at 11:01 AM.
Just posted a response on your other thread. I don't have any experience with the specific McLeod clutch you installed, but all the other clutches I've used that don't have full organic faced disks chatter to some extent or another. Some of em are just plain unusable on the street - older Spec Stage 2+ to name one - because of the chatter, and that's with every dimension checked and double checked.
Just a follow-up on flywheels, does anybody have a minimum thickness spec on flywheels? I know that it has a direct effect on clutch pedal throw as it gets thinner, but I have never found a minimum service thickness on FW itself.
Just a follow-up on flywheels, does anybody have a minimum thickness spec on flywheels? I know that it has a direct effect on clutch pedal throw as it gets thinner, but I have never found a minimum service thickness on FW itself.
I believe NCRS Discussion Board addressed this a few months back. Joe Lucia was one of the guys providing info.
03-18-2019, 05:54 PM
Which McLeod Clutch Kit 66 427/425
That job cost me big $$$$$ in dental bills after I got mad, was grinding my teeth, and broke a tooth cap. Needed about 4 replacement caps to get proper color match. 
