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Battery disconnect switch question

 
Old 04-13-2019, 02:16 PM
  #21  
Panama 58
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I have placed the spring connector on there as firm as possible without forcing it and this is what I have. From those of you using the same set up, how does this compare and any reasons for concern about quality of connection? Obviously not mounted on battery.

Last edited by Panama 58; 04-13-2019 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:19 PM
  #22  
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If you can't scootch that connector side-to-side with a couple of fingers then I'd quit worrying about it...
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Panama 58 View Post





I have placed the spring connector on there as firm as possible without forcing it and this is what I have. From those of you using the same set up, how does this compare and any reasons for concern about quality of connection? Obviously not mounted on battery.
"Unspring" the battery cable a scooch.. and push it down a bit.. No worries.
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff View Post
"Unspring" the battery cable a scooch.. and push it down a bit.. No worries.
Congrats on being a 20 year member Chuck!
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Old 04-13-2019, 03:02 PM
  #25  
Chuck Gongloff
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
Congrats on being a 20 year member Chuck!
Wow, 20 years.

I don't have 20 years of experience. I have ONE year of experience..... repeated 20 times.

Here I am today, with my buddy John, at a car show close to home.

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Old 04-13-2019, 04:05 PM
  #26  
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I know many favor the blade switch, but I can't see putting something reminiscent of a 1920s railroad signal tower in a relatively modern automobile like a Corvette. Save the blades for the pre-war cars and use a Hella or Cole Hersee in the Corvette.
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Old 04-13-2019, 04:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ejboyd5 View Post
I know many favor the blade switch, but I can't see putting something reminiscent of a 1920s railroad signal tower in a relatively modern automobile like a Corvette. Save the blades for the pre-war cars and use a Hella or Cole Hersee in the Corvette.

unlike the green **** the blade switch canít fail.
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Old 04-13-2019, 05:02 PM
  #28  
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The knife switch is simple, nearly foolproof and on my 63 its tucked up under the fender so far its not very visible at all...
I have no problem with it whatsoever..
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:10 PM
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Here's a picture of a Hella switch installed in he passenger's side footwell of a 19

61.
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:55 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
The knife switch is simple, nearly foolproof and on my 63 its tucked up under the fender so far its not very visible at all...
I have no problem with it whatsoever..
I've used the knife switch on my old cars for years and years and never had any problems at all.
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Old 04-13-2019, 09:02 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ejboyd5 View Post
Here's a picture of a Hella switch installed in he passenger's side footwell of a 19

61.
Looks like it belongs in a boat
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:33 AM
  #32  
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It does come from Hella's marine line. Easy to reach from the driver's seat and handle is removable for some small degree of added security.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:52 AM
  #33  
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Here is the deal with the "knife vs ****" story IMO....

The knife switch has a constant pressure to make the connection provided by the spring-style clip that the blade drops into...never changes and is constant. My experience with the green **** devices is that the pressure to make the connection varies, I tend to crank down on the **** pretty hard to make sure starter current can flow through it. Eventually, this requires more and more effort and, between corrosion and the distortion of the constantly, increasing tightening force - the switch fails...

Its that simple to me...

Besides - throwing the knife switch is just plain cool:


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Old 04-14-2019, 10:08 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
You've been lucky - I've been through about three of them (not the cheap ones) and each one eventually resulted in a non-start condition..
Before I went with the blade connector I had the green one... Had to take it apart a few times and clean all the corrosion in order to have a decent contact. Blade is much better with no issues. $.02
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:11 PM
  #35  
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What is your primary purpose to have this installed??? Battery Drain???

The REAL Professionals love the silent cars without LOUD theft sirens/horns. They own Tow Trucks and (enclosed) Tow Truck Trailers for a fast get away.
Only the amateurs might get fooled....only for a while.
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:21 PM
  #36  
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For me not theft or battery drain so much as fire 🔥 when not around burning the car and/or house to the ground if Iím not there. Not an uncommon occurrence with these cars
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:28 PM
  #37  
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If you have a mechanical dash clock, disconnecting the battery when the car will sit idle for a while extends the life dramatically...
If you have a clock refurbished by Clock Works they include a tag stating that in their maintenance instructions...

If your car is anywhere close to decently maintained, fire should not be a major concern...

Some forget people actually drove and PARKED these cars for days at a time in their garages 60 years ago... I can't remember ever seeing a battery disconnect on them back in my used car dealer days...

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-14-2019 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:30 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Vette5311 View Post
For me not theft or battery drain so much as fire 🔥 when not around burning the car and/or house to the ground if Iím not there. Not an uncommon occurrence with these cars
This is why I use a battery disconnect.
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Old 04-15-2019, 12:08 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
You've been lucky - I've been through about three of them (not the cheap ones) and each one eventually resulted in a non-start condition..
Guess Iíve been lucky also. Have one in my 59 for 6 years now and the 65 came with one thatís at least 1.5 yrs. old, no problems with either. Donít have a problem with changing them out, just donít see the need to.
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Old 04-15-2019, 01:21 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Vette5311 View Post
For me not theft or battery drain so much as fire 🔥 when not around burning the car and/or house to the ground if Iím not there. Not an uncommon occurrence with these cars
That's it right there, #1 concern and reason for disconnecting the battery when I'm not around the car is an electrical fire.

Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
If you have a mechanical dash clock, disconnecting the battery when the car will sit idle for a while extends the life dramatically...
If you have a clock refurbished by Clock Works they include a tag stating that in their maintenance instructions...

If your car is anywhere close to decently maintained, fire should not be a major concern...

Some forget people actually drove and PARKED these cars for days at a time in their garages 60 years ago... I can't remember ever seeing a battery disconnect on them back in my used car dealer days...
Frankie a major point is, when my cars were new 60 years ago, fire wasn't a concern then because the wiring harness was new or at least a lot newer than now. Both my '66's still have their original wiring harnesses and so as a prudent move, I disconnect the battery. I have other early 60's cars with new wiring harnesses and I still disconnect the battery when I'm gone.

I've mentioned it before, a buddy who is a retired fireman said they'd get called out about once a week for an electrical fire involving a car. Because of that, he faithfully disconnects the batteries on all his older cars when he isn't around. I understand your point on a "decently maintained car" but, well.... s**t still happens and it's so easy to prevent it that I just disconnect. You spends your money and takes your chances.

Completely agree that making your clock last longer is a happy bonus. Cheers.

Respectfully, Thomas
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