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If your car has the original pan, order the gasket with the smaller radius. Many pans changed this dimension in the 1970's, so if your car has a later replacement pan, then order the one with the larger radius. I only remember this for small blocks, but big blocks may also be the same way.
It is best to check pan first if any question. My friend bought the wrong one from local NAPA, and they exchanged it for him when he brought it back. Something to consider..........buying locally if in doubt.
When you get the pan off, make sure the bolt holes are not dimpled from over tightening. If they are, pein them flat and true. Make sure all the bolts are correct length so you don't have any oversize and bottom out. This will create a leak for sure. Torque for the pan bolts is 12 ft lbs. Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; 04-15-2019 at 11:36 AM.
Just a comment, I like Fel Pro items, but the bright blue shows up, and paint doesn't really stick well to these rubber/silicone gaskets. Mr Gasket has the equivalent, in a black/dark gray color, with compression stops in the gasket and all.
Not trying to sway your choice, but just to let you know there are options. I just bought the BBC Mr Gasket from Summit, part number MRG-6663G, and the price was $38.41
Last edited by playzwithcars; 04-15-2019 at 12:35 PM.
Reason: adds
When you get the pan off, make sure the bolt holes are not dimpled from over tightening. If they are, pein them flat and true. Make sure all the bolts are correct length so you don't have any oversize and bottom out. This will create a leak for sure. Torque for the pan bolts is 12 ft lbs. Dennis
Actually the spec from Felpro is 8 ft lbs for the small bolts, and 18 ft lbs for the large (corner) bolts.
As you'll see in this thread, mine held oil for 4 years...then developed a small leak.
Re-torquing the bolts stopped the leak.
Since we're discussing oil pan gaskets, I've got a dumb question to ask the experts. I'm in the process of changing my oil pan out from a 4qt. to 5qt. I have the Fel-Pro one pc. gasket. The instructions say to put the gasket on the block using those plastic studs to hold it up. Seems to me it would be easier to lay the gasket down in the pan and raise it up and bolt it in. Otherwise I could see part of the gasket hanging down while your trying to line up the pan. The service manual tells you to lay the gasket on the block first also. Is there a reason to do it that way. I'm thinking that they assume that you have the engine in a stand up side down, which in that case makes sense to do it that way. Mabey I'm missing something here.
Since we're discussing oil pan gaskets, I've got a dumb question to ask the experts. I'm in the process of changing my oil pan out from a 4qt. to 5qt. I have the Fel-Pro one pc. gasket. The instructions say to put the gasket on the block using those plastic studs to hold it up. Seems to me it would be easier to lay the gasket down in the pan and raise it up and bolt it in. Otherwise I could see part of the gasket hanging down while your trying to line up the pan. The service manual tells you to lay the gasket on the block first also. Is there a reason to do it that way. I'm thinking that they assume that you have the engine in a stand up side down, which in that case makes sense to do it that way. Mabey I'm missing something here.
I believe they say to seal around the front and rear curved areas of the block with some silicone. That may be one reason. And the pins they supply seem to hold this area secure. I remember helping my friend do this job and we also made up about 6 metal studs that we also screwed into the block temporarily to better help alignment during assembly. Used nuts on these when first pan installed until we got the regular pans bolts in on the remaining holes (finger tight). Then removed these temporary studs one by one and replaced with the correct bolts. Then tightened everything up to spec.
I believe they say to seal around the front and rear curved areas of the block with some silicone. That may be one reason. And the pins they supply seem to hold this area secure. I remember helping my friend do this job and we also made up about 6 metal studs that we also screwed into the block temporarily to better help alignment during assembly. Used nuts on these when first pan installed until we got the regular pans bolts in on the remaining holes (finger tight). Then removed these temporary studs one by one and replaced with the correct bolts. Then tightened everything up to spec.
Larry
Thanks Powershift. I was thinking about making some extra studs out of some cut-off bolts for this that reason. Just want to do this job once so I'll try to do it right.
Since we're discussing oil pan gaskets, I've got a dumb question to ask the experts. I'm in the process of changing my oil pan out from a 4qt. to 5qt. I have the Fel-Pro one pc. gasket. The instructions say to put the gasket on the block using those plastic studs to hold it up. Seems to me it would be easier to lay the gasket down in the pan and raise it up and bolt it in. Otherwise I could see part of the gasket hanging down while your trying to line up the pan. The service manual tells you to lay the gasket on the block first also. Is there a reason to do it that way. I'm thinking that they assume that you have the engine in a stand up side down, which in that case makes sense to do it that way. Mabey I'm missing something here.
The gasket is stiff enough to allow the plastic studs to hold it up. This is a SBC but a BBC should be the same. Here is a pic of the studs and the gasket. The studs will also support the pan, just push it over the studs, and then you can install the screws.
SO, the suggestion on SB (327) pans is that we use the one-piece gasket instead of the three-piece and use silicone sealer? Where exactly does the sealer go? I understand the front corners where the timing cover gasket and the pan gasket meet and the rear corner areas. Do you use the sealer on the actual gasket length as well?
Any other minor tips on this other than what is in this thread for a first-time person doing this?
The one piece obviously makes this easier, but I want to be sure everyone is on the same page here as, like everyone else, I only want to do this once if I can and make it last a few years.
Did these pans leak from the factory after a few years? I would assume they used cork gaskets and some type of rope or rubber at the ends? Just wondering.
My very first car work was replacing the rear main seal on a '55 312 Ford engine in the '55 Ford that was my first car in 1963. It wasn't that hard...I was young and lying on the cement all day was not an issue back then!
SO, the suggestion on SB (327) pans is that we use the one-piece gasket instead of the three-piece and use silicone sealer? Where exactly does the sealer go? I understand the front corners where the timing cover gasket and the pan gasket meet and the rear corner areas. Do you use the sealer on the actual gasket length as well?
Any other minor tips on this other than what is in this thread for a first-time person doing this?
The one piece obviously makes this easier, but I want to be sure everyone is on the same page here as, like everyone else, I only want to do this once if I can and make it last a few years.
Did these pans leak from the factory after a few years? I would assume they used cork gaskets and some type of rope or rubber at the ends? Just wondering.
My very first car work was replacing the rear main seal on a '55 312 Ford engine in the '55 Ford that was my first car in 1963. It wasn't that hard...I was young and lying on the cement all day was not an issue back then!
Cheers,
Richard
Here are a couple of previous threads on the subject that will answer most of your questions and provide some useful guidance. In the first link, post # 34, I described my problem which I attribute to variation in original timing chain covers and oil pans. The Fel-Pro recommendation (pic below) is to install the gasket dry except for RTV in the four corners. I found I needed RTV on both sides of the timing chain cover to oil pan surface.
The original four-piece gaskets (cork and rubber) didn't normally leak but did tend to seep after a few years. You will find access to a lift will make this job much easier.
Here are a couple of previous threads on the subject that will answer most of your questions and provide some useful guidance. In the first link, post # 34, I described my problem which I attribute to variation in original timing chain covers and oil pans. The Fel-Pro recommendation (pic below) is to install the gasket dry except for RTV in the four corners. I found I needed RTV on both sides of the timing chain cover to oil pan surface.
The original four-piece gaskets (cork and rubber) didn't normally leak but did tend to seep after a few years. You will find access to a lift will make this job much easier.
Thank-you! Valuable information as usual on this forum. Also going to change out the PG gasket while I am under there...
The gasket is stiff enough to allow the plastic studs to hold it up. This is a SBC but a BBC should be the same. Here is a pic of the studs and the gasket. The studs will also support the pan, just push it over the studs, and then you can install the screws.
Thanks Mike,
It's a done deal. I had a mechanic install the new gasket. No more leaks from the oil pan gasket. And luckily the rear main seal is OK.
So, getting ready to do this and was told the engine had to be raised in the car to get the pan out. I realize most do this when the engine is out of the car, but do you have to raise the engine to get the pan out to do this work? I am not removing the engine from the car anytime soon--I HOPE, anyway!
So, getting ready to do this and was told the engine had to be raised in the car to get the pan out. I realize most do this when the engine is out of the car, but do you have to raise the engine to get the pan out to do this work? I am not removing the engine from the car anytime soon--I HOPE, anyway!
1966 Conv 327/300 w/A/C.
Cheers,
Richard
No............but I believe you need to drop the steering link to remove the pan, to clear the oil pump pickup. Indexing crankshaft also helps, but I can't remember what position is best, It is discussed in the archives. The idea is to essentially move all the crank counterweights up into the engine cavity. You should be able to see this position and rotate crank as required. Just be aware that it exists.
04-15-2019, 10:23 AM
Question About Oil Pan Gasket
Wayne
Dennis
