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[C2] adjustable strut rod recommendations

 
Old 07-04-2019, 08:00 AM
  #21  
alexandervdr
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have not tried the R-joints, but looked at the video explaining how they work. If on a quality scale of 10 the original rods are 5, then the Global West I mounted are 9.5 (I take off 0.5 from max just as a principle not cause i found something wrong). So even if the RideTechs add something, there is little to add in my opinion.
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Old 07-04-2019, 09:25 AM
  #22  
woodsdesign
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30 View Post
This video explains it better than I ever could:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yh1xoG4cYDE

The C3 bracket effectively does the same thing as this block from Global West that lowers the C2 bracket mounting points. The thing is, with under car exhaust, the Global West block doesn't fit, while replacing the factory C2 bracket with the factory C3 bracket does fit.
I have under car exhaust so I do not want to buy the kit. Just the adj strut rods and a C-3 bracket, correct? As this kit, as it comes from GW, won't work on my car because of under chassis exhaust. Or, just order the adj strut rods and not use a bracket.
Does anyone have a pic of the GW set up with the C3 bracket?
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Old 07-04-2019, 10:42 AM
  #23  
FLYNAVY30
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign View Post
I have under car exhaust so I do not want to buy the kit. Just the adj strut rods and a C-3 bracket, correct? As this kit, as it comes from GW, won't work on my car because of under chassis exhaust. Or, just order the adj strut rods and not use a bracket.
Does anyone have a pic of the GW set up with the C3 bracket?

Correct. Just order the GW rods part number TBC-7....I ordered from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gls-tbc-7/overview/

Heres a C3 bracket on ebay for 50 bucks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1974-C...UAAOSw2NhcW1TD
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Old 07-04-2019, 01:04 PM
  #24  
Tom Austin
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Greg,

I already have HD heim joint strut rods on my '66 with the stock C2 bracket. I just watched the GW video and would be interested in the "spacer block" . . .but, I don't see a way to buy just the spacer block on their website? And the link to summit racing you posted is for their strut rods ONLY! I sent Dog @ GW an email asking how I can buy just the spacer block!

Tom
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:34 AM
  #25  
FLYNAVY30
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Originally Posted by Tom Austin View Post
Greg,

I already have HD heim joint strut rods on my '66 with the stock C2 bracket. I just watched the GW video and would be interested in the "spacer block" . . .but, I don't see a way to buy just the spacer block on their website? And the link to summit racing you posted is for their strut rods ONLY! I sent Dog @ GW an email asking how I can buy just the spacer block!

Tom

Tom, PM or email me your shipping address. Ill send you the block. When I ordered my parts, I ordered the rods with the block....which is how I know the block won't work with under car exhaust, and I have no intention of going to side pipes, so you're welcome to it.
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Old 07-05-2019, 10:13 AM
  #26  
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Greg, back in the early 90's I bought a system from Dick Guldstrand that he referred to as Smart Struts for my '73 that I was autocrossing at the time. It was essentially cut out of a piece of rectangular tubing. However it lowered the pickup points so that the strut rods were essentially parallel to the half-shafts. The system included the Heim jointed strut rods as well. It basically accomplished what GW does by using the spacer.

I don't know what happened to Dicks products when he passed or who may have picked them up, but it provided enough clearance for the exhaust pipes to clear the bracket when installed on the C3. I don't know how it might work on the C2, but I do know some folks used the C3 bracket on the C2's (which lower the pickup points) to reduce camber change and improve handling, especially with radial tires.





Good luck... GUSTO
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Old 07-05-2019, 11:54 AM
  #27  
65silververt
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I have the Vette Brake products units with Heim joints on two cars. Donít use the ones with poly bushings! The bushings will turn to dust eventually.
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Old 07-05-2019, 05:13 PM
  #28  
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I used the C3 bracket with the GW rods on my ‘64. For clearance, I loosened up the exhaust and was able to rotate and reposition it for enough clearance. I also have a composite rear spring which helped.

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Old 07-12-2019, 09:51 AM
  #29  
richopp
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Speaking to the shop that examined my car after an alignment by a competent shop kind of failed, I learned that ALL the suspension on my car is factory, so 53 years old. Lucky me!

He told me he uses ALL Moog rubber EXCEPT that the adjustable strut rods, which cost a bunch more, came with poly bushings and that this was a good thing in HIS experience rebuilding C-2 suspensions. (He had ALL the parts in stock for a complete front and rear rebuild except for a few very specific differential parts, so I think he does a lot of these based on what I saw actually going on at his shop when I was there.)

One of his main issues to me was that rear alignment would be easier with the adjustables...no shims, etc. He did not mention geometry differences, so I will ask about that when I go down there again.

Not sure what I will do when the time comes--$$ shortage as the estimate was 5700.00--so no work will be done soon, but when I am ready I am still not sure what I want to use there. Stock is kind of what I am doing, but not married to it as this will not be a judged car as long as I own it. Good news is that I have a long time to think about it!

Cheers,

Richard
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:28 AM
  #30  
jim lockwood
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Originally Posted by richopp View Post

He told me he uses ALL Moog rubber EXCEPT that the adjustable strut rods, which cost a bunch more, came with poly bushings and that this was a good thing in HIS experience rebuilding C-2 suspensions.

One of his main issues to me was that rear alignment would be easier with the adjustables...no shims, etc.



Richard
You are getting bad advice from this guy. Poly bushings in either the strut rods or the trailing arms is a bad idea because they can't endure the twisting forces.

And I don't know what he means by no shims. The use of adjustable strut rods has no bearing on trailing arm shims, if that's what he's trying to get you to believe.
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:05 PM
  #31  
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Richard, someone is telling you some whoppers. You need to find a real mechanic.
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:12 AM
  #32  
richopp
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Originally Posted by Factoid View Post
Richard, someone is telling you some whoppers. You need to find a real mechanic.
Thank-you.

I am taking a lot of time with this, and will probably do most of it myself as I have zero $$ for it. However, I am going to accumulate parts slowly over the next period and see what I can get done first. I have done front-ends many times on A-Body cars, so I am not too worried there. The back end is new to me, so I have a lot of work to do to learn that area as you point out.

My inclination is to keep things stock as much as possible, so that the is philosophy I am going in with. I have pretty good confidence that the car was designed to work a certain way and that I don't have the credentials to re-engineer it. This is especially true since it is a 327/300 that will be driven for fun, not raced or "judged" or any of that. Time to enjoy, not "get crazy", as Bon Qui Qui reminds us...

Even if I had the $$ available, I would do this pretty much the same way. First, it is a HOBBY, and I enjoy (mostly!) the wrenching parts. Second, this is a new brand for me, so I am starting from zero in my knowledge base and intend to know as much as possible before picking up a tool and starting the work on critical components like the suspension.

Cheers,

Richard
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:03 AM
  #33  
FLYNAVY30
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Originally Posted by richopp View Post
I have done front-ends many times on A-Body cars, so I am not too worried there.
Before tearing into the front, do some research on pulling these cars apart, especially with regard to removing and reinstalling the factory front springs.....they're HUGE, and its a massive pain in the rear to do safely. If you take a look through my build thread, I cover it in painful detail, and how I went about getting it done. Certainly doable, but not nearly as simply as an A-body!

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-64-coupe.html
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Old 07-13-2019, 06:15 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30 View Post
Before tearing into the front, do some research on pulling these cars apart, especially with regard to removing and reinstalling the factory front springs.....they're HUGE, and its a massive pain in the rear to do safely. If you take a look through my build thread, I cover it in painful detail, and how I went about getting it done. Certainly doable, but not nearly as simply as an A-body!

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-64-coupe.html
Super!

Thank-you very much for this inside data. I realize much of this is the same, but clearly the front end is different here. A arms and springs are pretty much the same, but the rest of it is a puzzle. I will get back to you with questions when we are ready to go in a few months or so.

Cheers,

Richard
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