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Good afternoon,
It appears from reading and watching I should be able to remove the transmission, bellhousing, pp, clutch while leaving the engine in place. Is this correct?
I have searched a few threads but haven't seen anyone post details. Is there a thread created for this project? If so could someone send my way. I search all sorts of ways but can't find anything thanks
All the bolts appear to be accessible. Any tips tricks to share? Does the pilot bearing need a special pull tool? I have my car raised up securely on 4 jack stands and will be able to support the engine once the tranny mount is removed.
As always thanks for the help.
That is correct. I replaced two clutches in my life. One in a 1991 Z/28 and one in my 1966 Corvette. Both were done on jacks stands while laying on my back on the floor. Just dropped the transmission and removed the bell housing. I'm not looking forward to ever doing that again.
good morning gents,
Tranny is up in the tunnel, looks like I have good clearance. I went to torque down pressure plate and the disc is different than original. The pressure plate looks exact. The new disc is 10", old disc is 10.5" Old disc still has plenty of meat on it. The new disc has an additional width to the input that goes on the shaft. On the flywheel side of the old disc there is an additional 3/8 metal shaft extension than on the new disc photo below. Question , would it be ok to use my existing disc seeing there is still life left and has it has this extra shaft input 3/8?
Photo of the old disc left to new disc right, lots of material still left on the old disc.
photo of the extra 3/8' on the old disc flywheel side, new disc below doesn't have this.
Wow - that's a can of worms. I don't believe I've heard of a true 10" clutch in a Corvette - at least a V8 one. Can you post the model number of the clutch you purchased and confirm the manufacturer. I agree old disc has lots of meat on it but it may be contaminated or glazed and although glaze can be broken up with some 120 sandpaper - using it with a the new pressure plate may not work considering the center and different diameter. Are the pressure plate diameters the same on the old and new clutch?
Wow - that's a can of worms. I don't believe I've heard of a true 10" clutch in a Corvette - at least a V8 one. Can you post the model number of the clutch you purchased and confirm the manufacturer. I agree old disc has lots of meat on it but it may be contaminated or glazed and although glaze can be broken up with some 120 sandpaper - using it with a the new pressure plate may not work considering the center and different diameter. Are the pressure plate diameters the same on the old and new clutch?
Hi Dan, The pressure plate is exact as to what came out of the car. It's a Sachs clutch. I bought clutch kit from Rock Auto. I notice on the box it says ZF Aftermarket, www.zf.com , the part # K1675-04. Thanks
Well, I guess it shows what I don't know but seems Corvettes up through 64 used a 10" clutch. I would use the disc that came with it. The shorter hub on the disc shouldn't be an issue as it can have a little wobble. It's the flatness of the flywheel and pressure plate faces and the uniform movement of the pressure plate disc as the clutch is released that are mostly responsible for smooth operation. At least as long as the disc is flat.
Strange the pressure plate you took out of it seems to be the same as the new one but it had a larger disc with it.
Very strange - you might want to consider buying a 10.4" disc but the cost of the new disc will probably be nearly as much as the entire kit was. But for fuel injected motor I would prefer the greater friction area.
I have to say if it were my car I would return that and buy a McLeod or RAM clutch or even a LUX. I saw that SACH kit for sale as low as $110 in a Google search. Sometimes you really do get what you pay for.
Wow - that's a can of worms. I don't believe I've heard of a true 10" clutch in a Corvette - at least a V8 one. Can you post the model number of the clutch you purchased and confirm the manufacturer. I agree old disc has lots of meat on it but it may be contaminated or glazed and although glaze can be broken up with some 120 sandpaper - using it with a the new pressure plate may not work considering the center and different diameter. Are the pressure plate diameters the same on the old and new clutch?
Originally Posted by DansYellow66
Very strange - you might want to consider buying a 10.4" disc but the cost of the new disc will probably be nearly as much as the entire kit was. But for fuel injected motor I would prefer the greater friction area.
I have to say if it were my car I would return that and buy a McLeod or RAM clutch or even a LUX. I saw that SACH kit for sale as low as $110 in a Google search. Sometimes you really do get what you pay for.
Thanks Dan, I have the return ready for Rock Auto. I was trying to replace the clutch with the brand that was already in the car. Price wasn't the issue. Just seems Sachs isn't the correct option at this point and not available form other distributors. I have used Sachs in 911's and worked well. I am going to seach out Luk or Ram and give it a try.
Do you have a dial indicator and magnetic base? I would check it for runout once it's bolted back on the crank. If you don't have them they can be bought pretty economically at Harbor Freight. It is also useful in checking your bell housing to make sure runout of the bearing retainer register based on the crank is within .006".
Hi Mike, tried to send you a PM but says you have full mail box. Would like some photos of the side hardware you used on the engine pull. Also how is the clutch linkage Z bar removed? All the other disconnects are straight forward, hoses, electrical, airbox, fuel line, mounts, exhaust. etc. I am not yet ready to move the engine but prepare to do so if needed. should know this evening if this is going together smoothly. Thanks. I can send you my email if needed.
Hi Mike, Can you forward pictures of how you attached the chains to side of the exhaust.
Thanks
Good morning,
Someone commented they have an original transmission spline I could borrow but I cannot find that post. If you have one I could borrow I would return once I have this completed. Thanks
Hi Mike, Can you forward pictures of how you attached the chains to side of the exhaust.
Thanks
[img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Mike%20Mckown/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/1963%20Corvette/Corvette%20engine%20change%20001.jpg[/img][img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Mike%20Mckown/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/1963%20Corvette/Corvette%20engine%20change%20001.jpg[/img][img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Mike%20Mckown/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/1963%20Corvette/Corvette%20engine%20change%20001.jpg[/img]I just tried to download some pictures to this forum. Won't work on this computer. It downloads to 90% then stops. I have no idea why. I'm just a button pusher.
Hi Mike, Can you forward pictures of how you attached the chains to side of the exhaust.
Thanks
If you can see the pictures, notice the longer manifold bolt that's holding a very short sleeve that let's the engine rotate up/down with force applied from a thumb and index finger. Very easy. Good way to make an engine change easy.
If you can't see the pictures, I don't have any more buttons here I can push.
If you can see the pictures, notice the longer manifold bolt that's holding a very short sleeve that let's the engine rotate up/down with force applied from a thumb and index finger. Very easy. Good way to make an engine change easy.
If you can't see the pictures, I don't have any more buttons here I can push.
07-01-2019, 07:19 AM
