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Old Aug 25, 2019 | 04:36 PM
  #21  
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On my 427 SB, I told the builder I wanted it to stay together at 8000 RPM. Not that I ever had any intention of running it that high as it starts laying down over 6K with teh restrictive exhaust and intake, but missed shifts, etc.... you never know.
I missed a shift in my 308 once and watch the tach climb to almost 11K before the motor started winding back down. Seemed like an eternity...
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Originally Posted by Westlotorn
I was in a machine shop talking with the owner, he just had a customer come in with a very odd request. He wanted a small block Chevy that he could rev to 8,000 RPM for his hot rod.
When the shop started to ask for details, the guys answer was, I don't care, I just want it to be able to rev to 8,000 RPM.
The guy did not specify what horsepower level, what torque he just wanted 8,000 RPM.
The customer is always right, you give them what they ask for.
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Old Aug 25, 2019 | 06:41 PM
  #22  
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That must be one solid 427 SB Doug. Nice to have such a solid short block to run with.
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Old Aug 25, 2019 | 06:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
On my 427 SB, I told the builder I wanted it to stay together at 8000 RPM. Not that I ever had any intention of running it that high as it starts laying down over 6K with teh restrictive exhaust and intake, but missed shifts, etc.... you never know.
I missed a shift in my 308 once and watch the tach climb to almost 11K before the motor started winding back down. Seemed like an eternity...
Doug
Not to hijack the thread, but is your 427 based on a Dart block? I would not expect a stock 400 block to hold up to 8000 rpm with a 4.0" stroke.
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Old Aug 25, 2019 | 09:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GearheadJoe
Also, could you post a photo of the casting date, which is located on the passenger side bellhousing flange? That will tell us when the block was cast, and whether it was cast in Saginaw or Tonawanda.
I have the engine tucked back where it was now, but when I had it out the other day, I took note that the casting date is B 14 7. Has the pipe plug above the water pump, so definitely a Flint block. I looked at the pad to see if I could find any faint impressions. but could not. The pad looked pretty smooth- no broach marks were evident.
Backstory: The 302 idea, always in the back of my mind since getting this car, only recently got serious. I had found a '57 283/245 2x4 complete engine for my car shortly after starting the restoration. Had it rebuilt by the engine builder I deal with. Ever since the car has been 95% done and running, (going on the 3rd summer) I have had nothing but oil leaks and a vibration in the engine (and no power). Finally got fed up and pulled it out (last thing I wanted to do) and brought it back to him. Bought a running 350 for $1000 and installed it. At least now I can finally drive the car. I contemplated building the 302 at that point until I realized that I really had a 350. You guys are probably all correct, that it would be a better idea to build it as a 350 or a 383, but there's just something about a 302.... I had a '71 LT-1 for 13 years, so I am very familiar with those. Honestly though, I think the old '57 would have taken the '71 2 out of 3 side by side. But that isn't everything. I will have to wait and see what the engine builder comes up with when he gets it on the dyno this week, and go from there. I have a lot of money tied up in buying the engine and intake setup, and having everything rebuilt, so I hope it's something he can get straightened out and I can just put it back in the car. Then I can figure what to do with the 350.

Thanks- Rich
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Old Aug 25, 2019 | 10:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MidShark
I have the engine tucked back where it was now, but when I had it out the other day, I took note that the casting date is B 14 7. Has the pipe plug above the water pump, so definitely a Flint block. I looked at the pad to see if I could find any faint impressions. but could not. The pad looked pretty smooth- no broach marks were evident.
Backstory: The 302 idea, always in the back of my mind since getting this car, only recently got serious. I had found a '57 283/245 2x4 complete engine for my car shortly after starting the restoration. Had it rebuilt by the engine builder I deal with. Ever since the car has been 95% done and running, (going on the 3rd summer) I have had nothing but oil leaks and a vibration in the engine (and no power). Finally got fed up and pulled it out (last thing I wanted to do) and brought it back to him. Bought a running 350 for $1000 and installed it. At least now I can finally drive the car. I contemplated building the 302 at that point until I realized that I really had a 350. You guys are probably all correct, that it would be a better idea to build it as a 350 or a 383, but there's just something about a 302.... I had a '71 LT-1 for 13 years, so I am very familiar with those. Honestly though, I think the old '57 would have taken the '71 2 out of 3 side by side. But that isn't everything. I will have to wait and see what the engine builder comes up with when he gets it on the dyno this week, and go from there. I have a lot of money tied up in buying the engine and intake setup, and having everything rebuilt, so I hope it's something he can get straightened out and I can just put it back in the car. Then I can figure what to do with the 350.

Thanks- Rich
I seriously doubt that. I know the 70 LT1 would run side by side with a 69 427/435 car in the 1/4 both cars being stock with same rear end gears.
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Old Aug 25, 2019 | 11:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MidShark
I have the engine tucked back where it was now, but when I had it out the other day, I took note that the casting date is B 14 7. Has the pipe plug above the water pump, so definitely a Flint block. I looked at the pad to see if I could find any faint impressions. but could not. The pad looked pretty smooth- no broach marks were evident.
Backstory: The 302 idea, always in the back of my mind since getting this car, only recently got serious. I had found a '57 283/245 2x4 complete engine for my car shortly after starting the restoration. Had it rebuilt by the engine builder I deal with. Ever since the car has been 95% done and running, (going on the 3rd summer) I have had nothing but oil leaks and a vibration in the engine (and no power). Finally got fed up and pulled it out (last thing I wanted to do) and brought it back to him. Bought a running 350 for $1000 and installed it. At least now I can finally drive the car. I contemplated building the 302 at that point until I realized that I really had a 350. You guys are probably all correct, that it would be a better idea to build it as a 350 or a 383, but there's just something about a 302.... I had a '71 LT-1 for 13 years, so I am very familiar with those. Honestly though, I think the old '57 would have taken the '71 2 out of 3 side by side. But that isn't everything. I will have to wait and see what the engine builder comes up with when he gets it on the dyno this week, and go from there. I have a lot of money tied up in buying the engine and intake setup, and having everything rebuilt, so I hope it's something he can get straightened out and I can just put it back in the car. Then I can figure what to do with the 350.

Thanks- Rich

Okay, so your info shows this is a Flint block that was cast on February 14, 1967. The casting date makes it a candidate for restoration of a Corvette or Camaro that was assembled during the second half of the 1967 production year.

If the pad has been decked, the only market-value difference between this block and any other '657 block cast around the same time is that this block has been machined for large journal mains. However, if this block has the original factory broach marks on the pad (as would be expected if it was purchased as a bare block), it would have considerable value.

A good, high resolution photo of the bare pad will usually reveal whether it has original straight broach marks or the curved cutting marks from a typical machine shop rebuild. Note that original broach marks extend over the entire deck surface, so with the head off the broach marks can be seen extending onto the head gasket surface. An example of this is shown below

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