nfran

After driving and working on this car for 10+ years, Strangest thing happened while driving my 65 BB Corvette yesterday. After taking off normally from a stop light, going about 150 yards, my 65 just quit, no power to engine or the key switch. Within a few seconds, the car restarted, drove another 100 yards, it did it again, no gas pedal response or ignition key response, absolutely nothing when turning the key. Pulled over, waited a few minutes this time and car restarted. It drove the next 40 minutes without incident. My car is equipped with an electric fuel pump which hummed as usual With key on And checked carb, plenty of gas so I ruled out fuel problem. Strange part is the ignition key did nothing at all therefore leading me to believe there’s an electrical issue. Haven’t checked out the car but asking if anyone could shed light on the subject.

Nowhere Man

Do a search on the red wire

begee22

Check the firewall connectors..............make sure they are not loose. begee22

rnixon

I had a similar issue with my 67 BB a/c car , battery on the drivers side with the cable routed on the firewall and down to the starter . When I put the ignition shield back on after some dist. work, the bottom edge came to rest on top of the positive cable . I use a double 0 gauge cable [ 3/4" dia.] probably why it happened . Took about 2 weeks to cut through the insulation ,and exactly what happened to you happened to me
Moral of the story ,Look for something simple first

DSR

I had a '74 AMX that did the same thing. It was a dirty loose /connection at the firewall plug.

Factoid

If you don’t fix it and it happens again try the horn, but frankly there are not many things it can be other than the red power wire in the bulkhead connector or a loose battery cable. That said, you have an electric fuel pump meaning you have wiring modifications meaning it will be difficult for us to help without knowing how modified your wiring is.

mrg

In addition to checking the firewall bulkhead connector the red wire that goes to the back of the ignition switch might be coming loose. My car had this issue. The red wire length in the wiring harness was a bit short going into the ignition switch. The wire would slip away enough at the terminal to break connection intermittently from time to time.

Also, though many years later the ignition switch was replaced because of of an an/off ignition miss.

John

ah53

Though unlikely, I had a bad ballast resistor that did the same thing to me a short while ago. FWIW

nfran

Well, I finally got around to start checking out my 65 Corvette today. After disconnecting the battery, I started with the bulk head connectors (which are only 4 years old because I replaced every wiring harness in my car) they looked very clean and no distorted pins. I then checked the horn relay connections. I recently installed an electric cooling fan and made the connection here at the horn relay so thought I could have a loose connection. All the connections were tight and secure. I then jacked the car up and checked the all the starter connections, although not really loose, they turned easily with a socket. I first loosened them slightly and then I retighten them up with a socket wrench. I also checked the ground straps and battery cables for any looser corroded connections, all seemed good, tight and clean. The only thing I haven't checked yet is the red wire into the key switch, that'll be the next area to look at. I then let the car warm up and drove it in the neighborhood for about 20 minutes and it drove just fine, no issues. The saga continues!!!!!

nfran

Factoid, My electric fuel pump is wired directly to the fuse block (hot wire key on) and grounded. I replaced my coil thinking there was a short after hot running. Took the car out today and did the same thing, coughed, sputtered, died. Hit the key switch, nothing. Horn blew ok, checked 12vdc at coil, at first zero, then moved the key in ignition switch and it started right up. Thinking now I have a bad ignition switch. Any ideas?

65GGvert

Important information: Did your interior lights, radio, fan, windshield wipers, clock, gauges (except battery gauge) also stop working? IF any of those continued to work, it's not a red wire issue. It could be in your ignition switch, but if it was the interior lights, glove box light, brake lights, headlight rollover, power antenna and clock would continue to work. If the car dies and the starter doesn't make any sound when you turn the key, but the radio, fan, etc keep working your problem will be at the starter solenoid. The fact that you could still turn the starter connection with a socket could be an indication of burned posts on the solenoid that caused a loose connection. That is IF the whole post moved when you tightened and not just the nuts. Find out what else works and doesn't work when it happens and post it back.

nfran

65GGvert, when the car did die, horn worked ok. I didn't try the radio, clock, lights etc because this time is cranked but wouldn't start. I had a voltmeter with me and checked the 12vdc terminal on a new coil and there was zero volts. I turned the key to off then on and car started, 12vdc at the primary coil side. Got all the way home without incident. Pulled my dash completely out and I'll replace the ignition switch. I had previously checked all the wires in the engine compartment, from the battery cables, horn relay connections, starter solenoid wires, terminal plugs into the firewall, all checked out ok. Strange gremlins at work.

65GGvert

So, that's two different situations if I'm understanding. One time, no response to key. Next time cranked, but did not start?

I'd check the connector on the ignition switch to be sure all the wires are seated completely. After that, I'd probably try the switch. I'm still suspicious of the connections on the solenoid and the internal contact on the solenoid that feeds the 12v to the coil during crank. It seems like you must have more than one issue with similar, but different symptoms.

C2nut

Try jiggling the key in the ignition when it won't start. I have had to replace many a switch over the years because of this. It's the simple stuff that kills you trying to find it.

65GGvert

If you can get it to the situation where it cranks but won't start, I'd connect a jumper from the positive battery terminal to positive connection on the coil and try again.