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Steel Fuel Line Routing - '65

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Old 01-10-2003, 10:07 AM
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Allcoupedup
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Default Steel Fuel Line Routing - '65

I'm about to reverse a bubba job on my '65. Someone has installed a rubber hose fuel line from the tank to the pump. It was spliced with steel line in 3 or 4 places. The rubber is cracked and the splices are seeping gas. Time to go!

I bought a one pice replacement and I know that it is imposible to replace it as one piece with the body on. Several of you here and over at NCRS board have advised that is is possible with one splice - right at the kick up and near where the trailing arm attaches.

My question: How does the steel line get routed as it exits the kickup (inside the frame) and runs along the rail? Also - (stuppid question) what can you use (besided your hands) to unbend the pre-bends?

here's a pic of my bubba line


Please share ANY information or advice you can. I'm not looking forward this job.

Thanks,
Allcoupedup


[Modified by Allcoupedup, 3:42 PM 1/10/2003]


[Modified by Allcoupedup, 6:55 AM 1/19/2003]


[Modified by Allcoupedup, 6:56 AM 1/19/2003]
Old 01-10-2003, 10:29 AM
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gary6696
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Default Re: Steel Fuel Line Routing - '65 (Allcoupedup)

Since I have my body off, I can send you a pic later today.

..........

You have mail.


[Modified by gary6696, 6:02 PM 1/10/2003]
Old 01-10-2003, 02:38 PM
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Allcoupedup
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Default Re: Steel Fuel Line Routing - '65 (Allcoupedup)

Look what I found by accident....


Now tell me how the heck I'm supposed to get the line in there with only one splice!! :confused:


p.s. Thanks to Gary 6696 for the offline help


[Modified by Allcoupedup, 6:58 AM 1/19/2003]
Old 01-12-2003, 06:21 PM
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magicv8
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Default Re: Steel Fuel Line Routing - '65 (Allcoupedup)

I still have the original line in my 66 so I can't speak from experience - but :skep:
I have read posts on the NCRS board that state a fuel line can be worked in to the original position if a cut is made where it will be hidden in the frame at the rear - then the cut is spliced with a piece of hose and two clamps before clamping the line down.

If my fuel line dies, I will probably try lifting the body enough to get a new one in the original position, but the one splice sounds good. Maybe you have to loosen the LH body mount bolts and remove the RH mount bolts to get clearance. I have also read NCRS posts claiming that method would work.
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Old 01-19-2003, 02:36 AM
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Allcoupedup
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Default Re: Steel Fuel Line Routing - '65 (Allcoupedup)

BuBBa was here:




Well it looks like my body has been off the frame and BuBBa decided to use plastic clips and a rubber hose for a fuel line. These clips we pinned between the body and the fame. It took me 3 hours to get the old line out.

Now the fun REALLY begins. I plan on straightning as much as possible here:

and making a cut right above the loom here:



The bolts supplied int eh kit won't even fit between the body and the frame. I think I'll gring off 3/16" and see if I can get it in along the rails.

Can anyone offer any suggestions??
Old 01-19-2003, 02:32 PM
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Mike Smith
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Default Re: Steel Fuel Line Routing - '65 (Allcoupedup)

Two years ago on the NCRS discussion board, Patrick Tighe reported on his experience with this:

"I finally finished installing a new gas line in my midyear......rough job to do so that it looks like it was installed with the body off. I had to cut the preformed, one piece line at the top and the bottom of the area along the rear frame jump up. I've heard you can install it in just 2 pieces, but don't see how that is physically possible. The cut at the top of the jump up is just after the curve in the line where it goes into the frame. Cut it so about 1" of line sticks into the frame. The bottom cut is about 8" forward of the rear edge of the door, midway between the cross members, so you can see it from under the car. The short piece of line which has the spiral armor, now can be fit into the forward space under the body, with a 3" piece of preclamped rubber fuel line, (it will fit) then swung around and the top part pushed in between the upper frame and body, then pushed into the small hole in the frame. You can't preclamp the fuel line on the top section into the frame, there is just not enough room. Then I took out the inner taillight assembly, which gives you a clear shot at the hole in the back of the frame, to feed in the long straight piece of rear line. It takes a lot of maneuvering to get this piece in, though. In the frame, just ahead of the gas tank, there is a bulkhead of some sort which you have to jump the line over. There is no way you are going to feed a preformed curved gas line through the frame, NO way. Once the pieces of line met up in the frame, there is a 2"x4" opening under the frame, where I took a 3" piece of fuel line and spliced the line together with 2 stainless screw clamps on each side of the cut. This is NOT easy to do; I had to take out the trailing arm to get to it. Once that's done, just feed the remaining straight forward piece under the body in the engine compartment and you can see it from under the car. Feed it in until it meets up with the rubber fuel line that was preclamped. It should slip right in. That's the way I did it; I don't see how you can do anyway else with the body on, but it worked for me. The best way to go about this is with plenty of patience and be prepared to do everything above several times before you succeed. Fun job, glad it's over. Patrick"

Good luck with the project. Please post the results of your experience - I'm sure there are several of us who will face this job.
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