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Clutch linkage question...

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Old 01-11-2003, 02:22 PM
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franko64
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Default Clutch linkage question...

There was a thread a while back about trying to get clutch travel right. It was getting kind of long, so I thought I'd start another one since I had two pretty direct questions, I'm just a newbie to the forum so I'm not sure if I should have just posted to the other thread.

I'm trying to make sure that I do have the correct / stock clutch linkage components in my car. Should there be some sort of identifying stampings on some of the parts, in particular I'm talking about clutch fork and the bell crank to fork rod? If not, how would I recognize if I have the correct fork? How do I determine I have the correct clutch fork to bell crank rod? I have a 64 with the 327. I looked at the paragon parts catalog and saw that there are different part numbers for the fork to bell crank rod for small block vs. big block cars, so I suppose there is a difference. If at all possible, can someone help me out by measuring the length of their fork to bell crank rod for me if you have a small block car? As for the fork, I didn't see any identifying markings on mine. Should there be some? Any help is greatly appreciated.


[Modified by franko64, 7:35 PM 1/11/2003]
Old 01-11-2003, 03:12 PM
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Kid_Again
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Default Re: Clutch linkage question... (franko64)

...the sb rod is about 10", center-to-center on the forward bend to the trailing hole and i don't think the forks are marked


[Modified by Kid_Again, 3:13 PM 1/11/2003]
Old 01-11-2003, 03:47 PM
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TheOman
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Default Re: Clutch linkage question... (franko64)

FrankO64

Post a "Calling MagicV8" and a "Calling Master Dave". One of them, Dave it think, has all the skinny on 64 rods. Both I believe rods are unique to 64. I also think that one of the 64 pieces is not avaliable. Magic or Master Dave had to put BOTH rods from a 66 or 67 into the car to keep the geometry right.
Old 01-11-2003, 03:58 PM
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franko64
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Default Re: Clutch linkage question... (Kid_Again)

Thanks Kid_Again. Just checked my rod, looks like the right one. I guess I'll replace it anyway being that it's got wear. Now I was wondering if anyone has a fork out of their car that they can measure from the center of the rod hole to the throw out bearing end. I suppose this wouldn't take into account the bend in the fork, but it'd give me a ball park idea if my current fork is the right one. Thanks.
Old 01-11-2003, 04:43 PM
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franko64
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Default Re: Clutch linkage question... (TheOman)

Both I believe rods are unique to 64. I also think that one of the 64 pieces is not avaliable. Magic or Master Dave had to put BOTH rods from a 66 or 67 into the car to keep the geometry right.
Oman,
Just found the post. Turns out it was Master Dave with the problem. Thanks.


[Modified by franko64, 9:59 PM 1/11/2003]
Old 01-12-2003, 01:09 PM
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magicv8
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Default Re: Clutch linkage question... (franko64)

GM parts manual (1973):
fork assy., clutch release 64-73 3887177 (1) $4.92
stud (pivot)___________ 55-65 3729000 (1) $0.82
rod, SB clutch fork rlse. 64-66 3844209 (1) $1.08 (10 9/16" O.L)

I have the same fork in my 66. Need a measurement? :thumbs:
Old 01-13-2003, 11:22 PM
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franko64
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Default Re: Clutch linkage question... (magicv8)

Macicv8, yes if you can easily measure the fork I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Old 01-17-2003, 10:02 AM
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MasterDave
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Default Re: Clutch linkage question... (franko64)

Franko64, I completed my clutch linkage assy last night and here's an update for you. Remember I had a problem getting the upper clutch rod due to it being unique to 64? The old linkage was at the very end of adjustment also so I was kind of stuck. The vette shop (Pacific Corvette) suggested I use the later year rod which was a couple inches longer with the corresponding shorter lower rod. According to them the bell crank and clutch pedal plate were the same. Well the install went great and the clutch actuates fine. There is still a good 1.5" of threads left on the upper rod also. Don't actually know why GM made the rod length change in later mid-years. The only thing that comes to mind is the fulcrum point change, could be it makes pedal pressure a little less harsh. Just thought you'd like to know.....


:cheers:

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