Is the pin stable (no wiggle) when pressed back into position? If so, probably a dab of red loctite or epoxy in the hole before the pin is inserted would secure it.

 

Dan, spoke with both Holley and Daytona Carburetor. (recommended by Holley)

Each recommended against using Loctite or similar thread lock. Unfortunately they recommend a replacement bowl (neither had one) or in the case of Daytona, they are able to repair, however they have a 5 week lead time.

Guess will continue to search for either a bowl or a shorter turnaround time for repair.

Thanks anyway for the advice

 

I’m not sure what there is to lose in trying to epoxy it but that’s just me. You might check with these guys for a bowl (Allstate). I bought a spare set of Holley 3247 fuel bowls from them.

https://allcarbs.com/

 

Dan
Both were concerned with epoxy/adhesive failure immersed in gas, resulting in a nightmarish failure.

Will contact Allstate

Many thanks

 

The pin is just a tapered pin that drives in. Put the bowl on a wooden surface and tap / drive the pin back in. Then try to pull it out with your fingers or lightly with pliers. It will likely stay in. If not, inspect the boss in the bowl to make sure it is not cracked. If it is, then you must resort to an epoxy or red Lok-Tite. Red Lok-Tite is used on the nut that holds the piston to the rod in hydraulic cylinders, and that nut is submersed in hydraulic fluid for the life of the cylinder. I have to heat the nut with and oxy-acetalene torch to break the bond. It will work in my opinion based on this experience in using red Lok-Tite and the fact that the hydraulic oil and gasoline are both petroleum produces, the oil is just thicker. Make sure you let it cure for the recommended time (24 hours I think) before it sees fuel.
Also, if your floats are brass, you can shake them and hear gas if they develop a pin hole in the solder to hold the two pieces together. You can test it by submersing the float in water and watch for bubbles just like finding a leak in a tire, except you may have to watch it for a minute or two. You can repair them by opening the vent hole in the side of the float the is soldered closed, then solder the leak location, and then resolder the vent hole. Quicker than running to town when you live in the sticks. If you have phenolic plastic floats, you have to buy a new one or wait for years for it to dry out.
Put a little Vaseline on the o-rings or Dow Corning O-ring lubricant to make the fuel tube easier to install without pinching the o-ring. I keep a few extra.

For what it is worth, maybe $.02
Ron

 

Ron,
Thank you for your input.
You have encouraged me to attempt a repair given that here seem to be few 2818-1 fuel bowls available.

Upon inspection I see no crack in the boss of the bowl. I will attempt seating the pin.
In the event I require an adhesive, what are your thoughts about ‘Seal All’ which is resistant to gas?

Thanks again for your advice

 

Good comments Ron. You went in to more detail than I did which helps. I’ve used epoxy (JB Weld) for a seal in a fuel environment before and it’s holding up fine after a couple of years. Seal All should be fine to use on the pin.

 

I have no experience with Seal-All, so I cannot provide a recommendation. In my opinion, 3M is the leader in sealants and make the best products for most applications if you research the 3M web site for application and intended use.
The pin sees little pressure and vibration. When you think of the GM rocker arm studs, they too are press fit and last forever with the stock springs.

Bottom line is what do you have to lose? Not having unlimited resources, I attempt everything before throwing money at it. We built our 68RS as well as other cars doing everything except the machine work of the block and heads. I am not a trained mechanic, just a redneck. You may fail the first time and even the second, but you learn every time. Doing it yourself is half the pride of driving a classic.

 

Reading this with interest as i have a generic 1850 Holley on my 65 and have been thinking of getting a 2818. There are a couple on ebay for $400 or so that haven't been run in years and would require at minimum, a rebuild. My car runs fine but it's one of those wish list items.

 

RESOLUTION-NEW BOWL

Allstate Carburetor in Islip, NY has a new bowl available. I have decided this will be the best course of action in terms of a safe repair.

Interestingly, both Allstate and 3M argued against using any sort of adhesive to secure the pin in the bowl.

3M in fact said they do not have any adhesive that would stand up in that environment,
that whatever they have would start to break down in as little as 30 days. After hearing this my decision to buy a new bowl was a no brainer.

A huge ‘thank you’ to all who offered their advice and assistance, with a special nod to
DansYellow66 for turning me on to Allstate.
Jim there was extremely helpful and understanding.

Enjoy the weekend . I will be showing up to my Corvette Club in my Camry ☹️