LT1 cam with 3844461 intake and 2818 holley
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
LT1 cam with 3844461 intake and 2818 holley
I was all set to build an L79 clone and you guys are talking me out of it with all of the LT1 cam praise.
My block is a '67 passenger car block code HC - 250 or 275 HP 10.5:1 compression. I have no idea what's actually insise it. It's currently set up as a 327/300 with the cast iron intake, Carter AFB, and dual snorkle air cleaner.
Here are my questions:
1. Will it be hard to tune the engine with the 350 365 HP carb and intake?
2. Do I need to upgrade the valve springs?
3. Is the added maintanence of lifter adjustment worth the increase over the L79 camshaft?
4. Will the Lt1 camshaft work with a mystery balancer? (probably passenger car)
anything else? I've never changed a cam before, or removed a distributor, or removed an intake, or removed a fuel pump so this is going to be a big project for me!
Thanks,
brian
My block is a '67 passenger car block code HC - 250 or 275 HP 10.5:1 compression. I have no idea what's actually insise it. It's currently set up as a 327/300 with the cast iron intake, Carter AFB, and dual snorkle air cleaner.
Here are my questions:
1. Will it be hard to tune the engine with the 350 365 HP carb and intake?
2. Do I need to upgrade the valve springs?
3. Is the added maintanence of lifter adjustment worth the increase over the L79 camshaft?
4. Will the Lt1 camshaft work with a mystery balancer? (probably passenger car)
anything else? I've never changed a cam before, or removed a distributor, or removed an intake, or removed a fuel pump so this is going to be a big project for me!
Thanks,
brian
#2
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Re: LT1 cam with 3844461 intake and 2818 holley (Allcoupedup)
Whether the L79 cam or the LT1 cam is better depends on your goals and intended use. If you're not shy about using the upper rpm ranges, the LT1 cam gives a noticeable power increase over the L79 cam. Otherwise, the L79 may be a better choice.
There are some must do's before removing the distributor in order to get it back in right so that initial startup and cam breakin goes well. There are also some potential problems in sealing the intake manifold and in getting the fuel pump rod to stay put during reinstallation. When you're ready to get your hands dirty, let us know and we'll guide you through.
Here are my questions:
"1. Will it be hard to tune the engine with the 350 365 HP carb and intake?"
If the carb is in good condition and properly adjusted, shouldn't be any problem.
"2. Do I need to upgrade the valve springs?"
Not if the stock springs are in good condition but, unless you know that they're still at stock specs, I'd change them. Either cam will work with stock spec springs but springs don't stay at spec forever.
"3. Is the added maintanence of lifter adjustment worth the increase over the L79 camshaft?"
Unless you drive your midyear a lot more than most, valve adjustments are no big deal and simple to do.
"4. Will the Lt1 camshaft work with a mystery balancer? (probably passenger car)"
The only factor involved that has to do with the balancer is the higher rpm. The factory did use different balancers on high rpm engines but lots of guys have increased rpm capability without changing balancers and without problems.
"Anything else? I've never changed a cam before, or removed a distributor, or removed an intake, or removed a fuel pump so this is going to be a big project for me!
Thanks,
brian
"1. Will it be hard to tune the engine with the 350 365 HP carb and intake?"
If the carb is in good condition and properly adjusted, shouldn't be any problem.
"2. Do I need to upgrade the valve springs?"
Not if the stock springs are in good condition but, unless you know that they're still at stock specs, I'd change them. Either cam will work with stock spec springs but springs don't stay at spec forever.
"3. Is the added maintanence of lifter adjustment worth the increase over the L79 camshaft?"
Unless you drive your midyear a lot more than most, valve adjustments are no big deal and simple to do.
"4. Will the Lt1 camshaft work with a mystery balancer? (probably passenger car)"
The only factor involved that has to do with the balancer is the higher rpm. The factory did use different balancers on high rpm engines but lots of guys have increased rpm capability without changing balancers and without problems.
"Anything else? I've never changed a cam before, or removed a distributor, or removed an intake, or removed a fuel pump so this is going to be a big project for me!
Thanks,
brian
#3
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Re: LT1 cam with 3844461 intake and 2818 holley (Vetterodder)
Agree with Vetterodder. All SHP cams have "soft action" and used the same valve springs as other SBs including 2-barrel 283s. They do get tired after 150K or more miles, but if you don't have any indications now of weak valve springs now they're probably okay.
If you do decide to pull the heads, pocket port and port match them to the manifold. That's good for about 8 percent more top end power with no effect on the low end.
Valve adjustments are easy. Once you know the drill it takes no more than an hour. Isn't that what older cars are all about - an occasional tuneup.
If you go with the LT-1 cam e-mail me and I'll send you the file that tells you how to properly adjust them with the engine cold and not running - piece 'o cake! With the valves properly adjusted many may not even know it has mechanical lifters.
Duke
If you do decide to pull the heads, pocket port and port match them to the manifold. That's good for about 8 percent more top end power with no effect on the low end.
Valve adjustments are easy. Once you know the drill it takes no more than an hour. Isn't that what older cars are all about - an occasional tuneup.
If you go with the LT-1 cam e-mail me and I'll send you the file that tells you how to properly adjust them with the engine cold and not running - piece 'o cake! With the valves properly adjusted many may not even know it has mechanical lifters.
Duke