Tom Piper

I recently pulled out a back issue of Corvette Fever Magazine where it details the tools available and how to use them when replacing the mid-year rear wheel bearings.
It showed all the tools available from Corvette parts vendors.

However, I think the D-I-Y Corvette community would be better served by these publications also showing the alternatives to buying these, somewhat expensive, tools.

For the do-it-yourselfer here is my experience:
1) The setup tool is a good investment -- if you had an old spindle, you could use emery cloth on the bearing journals to make the bearings a slip-fit like the setup tool. It really doesn't take that long to take a thousandth of an inch of the diameter of these journals.
2) The bearing puller for the outer spindle bearing is a good investment -- for the home tinkerer, it would be difficult to duplicate.
3) The spindle press (I won't even mention the worthless spindle knockers) is for cars with disc brakes only. It would probably work in most cases, however I had one that took 6 tons to move -- I don't think it would have worked on this one. Since I have a '64 with drum brakes, it wouldnt' work anyway. My suggestion: don't buy it -- take the bearing support to someone with a hydraulic press.
4) The spindle installer tool -- I went to Lowe's and bought a 1-1/4" to 1" pipe adapter/bushing. The inside diameter of the bushing I bought was kind of rough, so I had to clean it up with a rotory file in a drill. This took a couple of minutes. After that, I could put the spindle and bearings in the spindle support with my pipe bushing on top of the inside bearing and pull the spindle in easily. The installer tool is about $100, my bushing is about $1.50. And, I bet it is just as easy to use.


Tom Piper


[Modified by Tom Piper, 9:38 AM 11/27/2003]

62fuelie

I built a spindle press several years ago. Used some 1" stock that I had laying around. 1/2" would probably have been sufficient. Other than being a lot heavier than necessary, it works like a champ. You're right. Those special tools are pretty expensive for what is probably a "one time use", or maybe two or three if you trade cars on a regular basis.

64BB

add my vote to teh abover. i also have a 64 drum brake car. the only tools i had to borrow were a 2 handed slide hammer to get the spindle off. it took 34 whacks. i also borrowed a bearing separator, although i have since purchased one. the bearing replacement has worked well for 4 years; no noise etc., so i figure i did it correctly. i know now that if i have to replace one again that this is a very do-able job without speical expensive tools. i was quoted $250 to replace the one rear bearing. i did the job for the cost of bearings and seals, i think around $50.

SMI-FST

Is there a good write up on line on how to do this job? Best left to a pro shop? I need this done to my 65 and winter is a good time for maint. Can I do it at home? I do have access to a press.

Thanks

Tom Piper

I've removed spindles in the past with a slide hammer.
This time the slide hammer, even making the trailing arm solid with a chain and come-along, wouldn't budge it.
Being hard-headed, after I removed the spindle support from the car, I destroyed a new universal puller that had bolts through the spindle support mounting holes -- I bent the, very sturdy, screw.
Common sense told me not to do it, but I did it anyway.
When I look back, even the ones I removed with a slide hammer, it wasn't worth the aggravation. It only took me an hour to remove and strip the entire spindle support to take to the shop with a hydraulic press. And, on thes one, after fiddling around, it took me a day to accomplish nothing.


Tom Piper

62fuelie

My experience here has been that if there is nothing wrong with the bearings, they usually come out pretty easily. HOWEVER, I have also run across the type that were not going to be pressed out PERIOD. When I last chenged the bearings in my 67, the side that was making noise was a real problem. First I broke the caliper mount trying to pull it the conventional way. Next, I took the TA off and attempted to press it out. No dice. Finally, and reluctantly, had to torch it out. All ended well and the new bearings have lasted for about 8 years so far. I expect them to last many more without attention. :auto:

00fxd

Tom, what is the purpose of the spindle installer? Am I wrong when I read that the spindle is pulled into place using the recomended torque of 100lbs at the spindle nut? I was thinking of buying the spindle puller. '62, is there any way you could send me a pic of your press?


[Modified by 00fxd, 10:45 PM 11/29/2003]

Tom Piper

Because the bearings are an interference fit on the spindle, the spindle is too short to pull the bearings into place with the spindle flange and nut. The "spindle installer" simply screws onto the threads where the spindle nut normally goes. This installer has threads on it for the nut. This extends the spindle far enough to pull it into place with the nut. When the spindle is pulled into place, the installer is removed and the nut is now able to be put on the spindle threads to finish the job.

The pipe adapter/bushing that is used is short enough to allow using the nut, without the spindle flange, on the end of the spindle threads to pull the spindle part way in. After the spindle is in part of the way, the bushing is removed and the spindle flange is put in place to pull it the rest of the way in.

The difference is: instead of extending the length of the spindle, with the installer, to allow getting the nut on the threads of the installer, I am using the bushing, which is shorter than the spindle flange, to allow the nut to be put on the spindle threads.

Tom Piper

62fuelie

I'll see if I can dig it out tomorrow and send you a jpeg. Damn thing weighs a ton. May need a crane to get it out of the box. :D As stated earlier, a piece of 1/2" plate would be sufficient for the main body. :auto:

00fxd

I'll look foreward to it '62 thanks.

00fxd

Tom, went to a hardware store today. Pipe bushings are available both in 1 1/4 od male with a 1" female id -or- 1 1/4 female to 1" female step down pipe thread bushings. Which one am I after?
Thanks, Frank.

Tom Piper

It's 1-1/4" male pipe thread od with a 1" female pipe thread id.
Mine is 1-1/4" long.
The inside diameter of mine was rough, and had burrs, and needed to be "honed" slightly with a rotary file in my drill. This really only took about 3 minutes to do.
Also, I needed a heavy washer to put between the hex end of the bushing and the nut. The washer that came on the commercial "setup tool" was just what I needed.
Before you start, make sure the inside diameter of the bushing will go over the spindle at least all the way over the inner bearing journal area. Also, make sure you have selected the correct shim for pre-load.

Here is the way I did it.
First, with the outer and inner bearing races in the housing and after putting wheel bearing grease on everything including in the spindle housing, put the outer bearing and outer seal in place in the housing. Make sure the outer seal is all the way in.
Then, put the spindle through the outer seal and outer bearing inside the housing. Except for the seals, at no time should you need a hammer -- do this by hand.
Next, put the spacer and shim in place from the inside making sure the spacer is in the right direction.
Then, put the inner bearing on the spindle from the inside.
Then, put the bushing on the spindle with the hex end toward the center of the car and the other end up against the inner bearing inner race.
Then, put the washer against the hex end of the bushing with the nut on top of that. You should have plenty of room to catch the threads on the spindle.
Next, tighten the nut until you have pulled the spindle in far enough to get the spindle flange in place instead of the bushing and still be able to get the nut on the spindle threads.
After that, you should be able to pull the spindle all the way home with the spindle flange.
You will have to remove the spindle flange and install the inner seal and dust deflector. Then, put the spindle flange back in place and tighten the nut to 100 lb-ft.

Another trick I learned from searching the archives on the C3 Forum.
I wanted my bearing clearance to be .001" to .002". The shim set comes with .006" between shims. So, I took an old mirror to have a flat surface and put emery cloth on it so I could use my hand to "file" the shim to the correct width. I started with coarse emery cloth and finished up with fine. Doing it this way, keeps the shim nice and flat. It only takes about 4 minutes to take .003" off the thickness of the shim. You probably should use a 0" to 1" micrometer to measure this.

Tom Piper


[Modified by Tom Piper, 7:59 PM 11/30/2003]

00fxd

Thanks again Tom, That sounds easy enough. I was reading too much into it.
Frank.


[Modified by 00fxd, 10:04 PM 11/30/2003]

fredricphelps

I have to replace both bearings in my 63. I see on the web there is a tool to remove the spindle. It looks like a piece of pipe. I saw it at Volunteer Vette in TN. It does not look like the "knocker". Would I need that?
Like your ideas !!!

JohnZ

That sounds like the deflector install tool.

You're responding to an 8-year-old thread - you might want to start a new one.

fredricphelps

I know it is old thread, but it is exactly what I need to do and I have never done it before and need all the info I can get before I attempt it.

The picture you have is nothing like the tool I saw.

JohnZ

If you haven't done this before and don't have ALL the special tools required (including a press), this isn't a do-it-yourself job. You also need to know when your car was built, as the spindle design and machining was changed in mid-November, 1962 due to field failures; cars built prior to that date had slip-fits for the inner and outer bearings on the spindle, and after that date the outer bearing was a press fit and the inner was a light press fit on the spindle. The spindle nut torque also doubled with the second design.

wombvette

All that special stuff isn't really needed. Some day I need to do a video.

fredricphelps

So if I buy new spindles and bearings everything then will be ok as long as I can find a press for the outer bearing and the races and use the tool to draw the spindle in like Tom has mentioned earlier. Right?

6T5RUSH

fredricphelps,

Realize this thread is about "doing it yourself" but I gotta tell ya', money wise, after buying all the special tools and buying new spindle supports and correct bearings it's pretty tough to beat just replacing the whole trailing arm which comes with new bearings, rotor, backing plate, bushings, stainless parking brake hardware AND peace of mind knowing you've got a warranty as well.

Here's Paragon's site on the spindle support:

https://www.paragoncorvette.com/sear...PINDLE+SUPPORT

Just completed doing this for a 1975 Corvette. Purchased these complete arms from Ikerds.

Here's their link: http://www.ikerds.com/miva/merchant....t_Code=200-560

Purchased this along with new rotors for a total cost of $325.00 a side...add $200 a side for core charge which is refunded when you return your trailing arms (minus rotors). So, for $650.00 + freight both ways (figure $110.00 total or so) your total cost WITH peace of mind is approx. $760.00. This is a bolt on and go. Whoops, forgot about the shock mounts...add another $60.00.

Just another approach to this task.

Here's a pic of Ikerds' assembled arms as received:



Jim
In God We Trust!