newbe60

Here is what worked for me... I also put an electric fan..195 on..175 off..and had the same problem.. then I put back on the original fan and shroud..directly behind the electric..yes it will fit.. the electric being on one side of the sway bar and the 5 blade being on the other(closer to the engine).. I drive mine in stop and go traffic everyday here in Long Island NY.. While it may not be 100 degrees the Long Island Expressway drives as if you are testing a car for overheating.. the regular fan always going .. so the electric hardly goes on..and if so not for long.. are you running a generator or did you switch to alternator.. a lot of the high speed electric fans use sometimes as much as 22 amps..which I can tell you from experience will be too much amps.. make sure you fan is no more then 11 amps my is pulling 1900 cfm's( not sure if amps is the right term but 11 is right) E-mail me if you have any other questions I've been chasing this in my 60 for 2 years now ( engine is 327 bored .060)

bottom line put back on the shroud and the 5 blade..keep the electric also on for stop and go and hills

newbe60

Not sure if you are new to forum..but to e-mail anyone just click on their name on the left and follow the directions.. With both the electric and the regular fans both pulling at the same time..it's like a wind tunnell under there

dale3in98

I'm running an HEI distributor with vacuum advance off the carb. As for the timing setup, I don't have that information currently.

I'm running a 100 amp alternator so the dual fan amp issue shouldn't be a problem. Sounds like I need to put the fan and shroud back on the car...wish I hadn't sold the shroud last week. Anyone have one for sale?

Thanks to everyone for chiming in and trying offer some help and suggestions.

JohnZ

There are usually several nipples on the carb for vacuum - one or more is full manifold vacuum, and one or more is "ported" vacuum (which provides no vacuum at idle). Put a vacuum gauge on the one you're using now for vacuum advance and see if it shows full manifold vacuum at idle - that's what you want.

SWCDuke

This forum is full of threads over the past several years with stories of guys spending hundreds of dollars on fans, water pumps, thermostats, additives - you name it, and the solution was often just a ten dollar vacuum advance can.

Buy or borrow a dial back timing light and Mighty Vac or equivalent vacuum pump and gage and characterize the ignition map. The vacuum advance map is critical and just any vacuum can won't work on any engine.

The vacuum can should provide a maximum of about 16 degrees of crank advance at 2" LESS than manifold vacuum with 25 degrees total idle timing, which is the sum of initial and full vacuum advance. Also, the vacuum can must be connected to a source of full time manifold vacuum for vacuum advance to be active at idle.

If an engine has no vacuum advance or ported vacuum advance, determine idle manifold vacuum by temporily setting the initial timing to 25 degrees, then set idle speed and mixture and measure manifold vacuum. If it is 14", you want a can that provides 16*@12", The readily available cans from NAPA/Echin provide 16* at 8, 12, and 16 inches, which will cover every application from mild to wild! Idle manifold vacuum is determined primarily by valve overlap. A big cam like the 30-30 (and many aftermarket cams) will only pull about 10" @ 900. The mild 300 HP cam will pull about 18" @ 500. Insufficient or no vacuum advance at idle just about guarantees that it will run hot or overheat, especially at idle and low speed driving.

With the full 16* of vacuum advance at idle plus 10* initial the TOTAL IDLE TIMING will be 26 degrees. Depending on the cam you want in the range of about 22-32 with bigger cams (lower idle vacuum) needing more than mild cams.

Duke

Coves4me

Dale,

While cruising another thread on 62 2-1/2-inch exhaust sytems in this forum I ran across your reply and it made me think of another thing you might look into to help solve your overheating problem. Although I think your problem will be cured by re-installing the fan shroud, sealing it against the radiator and using a stock 4 or 5 blade fan, have you checked the exhaust riser and its operation on the passenger side exhaust of your car? Over time, these risers become corroded and gunked-up and seal partially shut which restricts exhaust flow. They were originally intended to help the exhaust manifold heat up quickly to help the choke open sooner. A bi-metallic spring and counteweight on the outside allowed the internal blade to be open during normal hot engine operation. When the engine cooled down, the spring would contract closing the blade. Fuel injected cars, and some other Chevys of the period, had a spacer that looked like a riser, but it had no blade installed. You can still buy it from Danchuk and other suppliers. If your riser is original and difficult to move, you might want to look into getting one of the dummy risers. Good luck!!

dale3in98

Wish I would've know about the "dummy" riser a couple of months ago. I used an original riser and cut the pin and flap out of it. My plans are to start with the timing/advance and move on to the shroud and 5 blade fan if the car doesn't cool down in traffic.

Thanks to all for the info and suggestions.

dale3in98

Ok, I checked the vacuum connection and the nipple(Holley 600-below front fuel bowl) has vacuum at idle, which is the one I had the advance connected to.

However, I was told by a friend that at idle the car shouldn't be advancing and should be connected to a non vacuum nipple at idle. Which one is correct vacuum at idle or no vacuum at idle?

plaidside

SWCDuke's statement says it all.
"The vacuum can should provide a maximum of about 16 degrees of crank advance at 2" LESS than manifold vacuum with 25 degrees total idle timing, which is the sum of initial and full vacuum advance. Also, the vacuum can must be connected to a source of full time manifold vacuum for vacuum advance to be active at idle."
On my 61 I removed the dual point distributor with no vacuum advance and installed a single point distributor with a vacuum advance.
I have a copper/brass radiator, I have a real early 61, and sealed up the lower area where there is a large gap between the radiator and the support. I have the stock 5 blade fan and clutch and the original shroud.
The car idles great and I had it in NYC in stop and go traffic in 95 degree temps with no problem what so ever.

JohnZ

Your friend is one of the many who have no clue about what vacuum advance is all about, what it does, how it works on pre-emission engines, or why it's there. You want full manifold vacuum on the distributor at idle. "Ported" vacuum was a crude emissions strategy to make the air injection system more efficient at idle in the days before catalytic converter technology arrived.

gsc

I've had the same problem with my 59. I added a bottle of the Water Wetter solution today. Will let you know, but I really don't expect it to work enough to make a differene.

gsc

I've had the same problem with my 59. I added a bottle of the Water Wetter solution today. Will let you know, but I really don't expect it to work enough to make a difference.

JohnZ

"Water-Wetter" is simply a concentrated surfactant, designed to be used in straight water as coolant in race cars, where sanctioning organizations prohibit the use of anti-freeze. Any brand-name anti-freeze ALREADY has surfactants in it, and doesn't need any more. Nobody reads the labels.

gsc

I did read the label, it advertises that it will lower tempatures. Not that I believe it, but worth a try!

Nowhere Man

You want beach front house is Wyoming too? I got some for cheap. Fix your problem at the root cause. Not snake oil

JohnZ

To quote a famous article, "Fixes for cooling problems come in boxes, not in bottles."

mickatbp