65RDSTR

I bought a brake booster and a master cylinder for my 65. The booster has a rod with threads to connect to the pedal clevis but there is no rod or pin at the other end between the master cylinder and booster. Is that a part I need to buy or do I have somthing wrong?

JohnZ

LICS has them - also the rubber seal, if you don't have that either.

TJefferson2020

Where did you buy it from? Seems like it should come with the assembly...

65RDSTR

I bought them seperatly on ebay. Both are rebuilt. Is the rod supposed to come with the master cylinder. I wonder if they gave me a manual brake cylinder.

JohnZ

Normally, you use the pushrod from your old booster when you have one rebuilt; what does the master cylinder look like? Should be a fat (wide) iron casting with two separate caps and two outlet ports for the front and rear lines.

TJefferson2020

A manual mc will have a deep hole in it. A power will have a shallow indent.

vark_wso

Is your '65 equipped with disc brakes, or is it one of the very few with drums?

The difference between manual & power brake m/cyls for a disc brake '65 would be at least $5-600 in selling price. The pb cylinders are quite rare. They look identical to the '66, but have smaller outlet ports for the smaller diameter brake line used in '65.

Delco Moraine casting # 5467084 has two chambers with plastic/nylon caps. The manual brake m/cyl for '65 is much more common & can still be bought new for a little over $100. They use Bendix casting # 2225032. They are single cylindrical reservoir with round stamped metal lid.

Allcoupedup

correct '65 PB masterr cylinder. Notice the adaptors on the brake lines.

Brian

65RDSTR

I have 4 wheel disk brakes and I know the car came with power brakes because the firewall has the original mount plate for the 2 bolts at the top of the booster. The master cylinder I bought is actually for a 67 ( one big steel cap) because there is about a $950.00 difference in price from 65 to 67. I was told that 65 cylinders were discontinued and 67 cylinders were sold as replacements for the 65. It was listed as a M/C for a 67 W/ Power brakes. What is the difference between the 67 W/ power and without power brakes. I wonder if I got the wrong one.

packrat

The power brake master cylinder pictured is a 1966 version with 1/4 inch tapped holes. That's why the adapters are needed. A correct 1965 power brake master cylinder has 3/16 inch tapped holes for the lines and they would screw in without the adapters. The correct 1965's are very hard to find and demand a premium price. The 1966's are also hard to find but there were more of them as they were the replacements for the 1965's when you could buy them.
Hope this helps
Page Campbell

Allcoupedup

Packrat,
I thought the '65 MC had the adapters and the '66 didn't - I'll check the Adams book this evening.

Brian

JohnZ

'67 was the only year where the same master cylinder was used for both manual and power brakes; 5455509 casting, stamped "DC" at the front, deep-hole rear piston. Functionally, the '67 master cylinder will work fine, but you'll need a "long" booster-to-master pushrod instead of the usual "short" pushrod.

Allcoupedup

Per the Noland Adams book:
Adapters were required on the outlet lines of the 1965 J50 master cylinder. 1966 lines were attached directly to the master cylinder.

Brian

John 65

Rob, I will be looking for a 65 power brake MC this Fri in Carlisle but I know the $$$$$$$ will be out of reach for my budget . How do you plan to run the new line to the rear brakes, if your body is off it makes life a lot eaiser, but those days are long gone for me. Hope to do my conversion next month.

johnfharding

All, I'm not up on the hole original parts thing but I did just put Power brakes on my 67 coupe and the booster came with two 2 different rods to put between the booster and the master cylinder,, in my case the short one is the one that seemed to work properly,,,, according to the instructions. I bought my booster for 349 from Ecklers,,, So yes the booster should have come with the rods. Thats all I know you guys can take it from here. I still have the long rod somewhere in the garage.. Not sure if it would work,, I suppose it would depend on what master cylinder you have and which one I have and so forth.

johnfharding

I did research on the question about master cylinders and I think the only difference was there was a J56 option on some big block 67's that was some heavy duty braking thing,,, I don't really know but my car was manual brakes and I used the same master cylinder that you say you have and it worked out great,, I did have to retrofit some extensions on the brake lines because my car never had power brakes and I had to add the brace you are speaking of. I hope this helps,,

65RDSTR

John with the 65: Im going to stick with the 67 master I have for now because I have alot of other things to spend money on. My car is a project and needs alot of other things more than a $900 master cylinder. As for the lines I dont have to worry about it because my car originaly had bower brakes and the lines are there.

John with the 67: interesting that your Booster came with rods. Were they just simple rods that could be reproduced or is there something fancy about them. Is there any play between the piston in the boster and piston in the master or does the rod between them fit tight when there bolted together. Ill call Ecklers to see if I can learn more. thanks.

johnfharding

Well honestly I am not sure about the play. Here is exactly what the instructions say,, " Correct push rod length is essential to reliable braking ,,,if too long it causes the compensating ports in the MC to be closed off. eventually resulting in brake drag, if too short there will be excessive brake pedal travel and possibly a groaning noise from the brake booster. Use the procedure below to check the push rod adjustment.. (note they say adjustment,, some are adjustable however mine were solid steel nothing special. Please note that at this stage they are assuming power booster has been installed ,, MC installed and properly bled, and lines snugged up additionally the vacuum line attatched. MC Push Rod Adjustment procedure "Step 1. Remove MC reservoir cap. 2. Have assistant slightly depress the brake pedal watch for fluid to erupt in the reservoir when the pedal is depressed 3/8 to 1/2 inch. This indicates correct push rod length. On dual system master cylinder, Fluid may spurt only from front reservoir,,,,,(note: I saw the fluid squirting up in both of mine with short rod, I saw absolutely nothing with the long rod). 3. if pedal travels 1/2 inch before master cylinder erupts , the rod is toos hort,,, or if nothing happens no matter how far the pedal is pushed rod is too long. 4. Talks about adjusting an adjustable style push rod... which I did not have.. Obviously depending on your situation you could adjust either way and if need to shorten but out of adjustment they mention using . Also directly from 67 build manual the reservoir should be filled to a 1/4 inch from top measured at rear edge. Thats how I did mine, and the first time I hit brakes my wife and I almost made face indentions invarious parts of the dash,,, HUGE DIFFERENCE,, YOU WILL DEFINITELY LIKE

johnfharding

If you are interested in the long rod let me know,, maybe I could mail it to you,, and you could go from there,,, say if you need a heater box, blower , console vents defrost vent etc. I removed mine to install A/C,, I will be selling them,,, not sure that you would need or want since 66 maybe different,,, I'm not sure what I would want for them. They are not perfect but I'm going to clean them up and see what condition I think they are in.

65RDSTR

I am interested in the rod and I might be interested in the heater. Ill send you a private Message.