nitram

Silver,
Will the corvette shifter work with this transmission? How about the corvette tailhousing?

5speed,
Do you know if the 2wd and 4wd truck transmissions have the same output shaft? Could I bolt a 2wd corvette tailhousing onto a 4wd truck trans?

Thanks in advance, Byron

silverslashstreak

Nitram, I am using the hurst shifter that I was using on my muncie. I had to make a new mounting plate, and I was able to use the hurst 1-2 and 3-4 linkage rods from the hurst. The reverse shift arm is more forward than the muncie so I used one of the rods from the overdrive trans and put a small bend in it so it would clear the speedo cable drive. I did not have to bend the other rods, which is important as not to weaken them.

As far as the tailhousing , it wont bolt up to the trans, but there is no reason to do that because it is the same length as the muncie and the rear mount is in the same place.

I put a lower milage trans in tonight but it is raining so I will have to wait to drive it till the weather clears up. It seemed to shift ok up on the rack. SSS

6Split3

Any more info on this install? How did you get the speedo hooked up?

Do ya think it'll hold a 400hp 355 in the long run?

Thanks

Plasticman

I also would be interested in how this is working for you. Also, if you have any pictures of the shifter mounting plate and reverse gear rod, I would be very interested.

I picked up one of these transmissions off Ebay this past week. I took off the side cover for inspection (it looked terrific inside), and had just a "little" problem getting the cover back on (no where as simple as on a Muncie!). One shift yoke cannot be removed from the housing "with" the side cover (comes out separately after the cover is off), and therefore the side cover cannot be preassembled with that shift fork. Have to fit the side cover part way on, feed the yoke shaft into the side cover , retract the interlocks, etc. Real fun, since it has additional interlocks for reverse as well.

This trans does have more weight than a Muncie, and is deeper (extends lower) by an inch, so my "H" pipe will need to either go, or be modified.

The speedo issue (on a C1) is not a problem, since the speedo's is driver's side on both the original and this new MY6. As for adjusting the speedo gears, looks like standard Turbo 400 gears work (including the gear adapter).

Note that for those who asked about the extention housing, it is unique to this trans (nothing like a Muncie). And it does not come off like a Muncie - trans has to be disassembled internally (cluster shaft / gears removed) for the extension housing to be removed!

Thanks,
Plasticman

Cruz59

What ever happend to this conversion ?

I'm still interested in any results?

Thanks

aworks

We just put one of theses trans. in a 78 vette. It works great. The overdrive is just right. I wish I saved it for one of my cars. We sold the 78 on wed. and the guy that bought it loved the trans. If I find another one I will buy it and use it in one of my own cars.

MassVette

I would be more worried about the severe tire-width limitations of the Mid-Year with 600lbs/ft of torque to transfer to the street..........

Plasticman

I tried E-mailing Silverslash, but have not received an answer. I am still putting the pieces together for my install, and with the move to FL, might be awhile before I get to it (priorities!).

Plasticman

1COOL60

Did the bellhousing need to be machined to a larger diameter hole for the bearing retainer? I have a scattershield in my '60, and would like to retain it rather than use an aluminum bell. Thanks.

Plasticman

The front bearing on this trans is the 5-1/8" diameter used on Chevy trucks. So any bellhousing from them should work. But your scattershield has the "standard" pass. car Muncie / B-W center hole which is around 4.7" in diameter, and that will not work.

I picked up an early truck bellhousing off of E-Bay (open bottom, cast iron, bellhousing mounted starter version), but it did not have the clutch linkage boss on the side. I have not seen any early truck bell housings with the clutch linkage boss - if anybody know where one is, send me an E-Mail). I ended up making an attachment for this linkage using 2 of the bellhousing to engine block bolt locations, plus the ball stud mounting point on the later engine blocks (that is along side the oil filter).

Otherwise, it is a bolt in (HA). To be continued.

Plasticman

vetteman64

Try Gary's Gearbox, recently advertising Muncie 4 spds, with 4th gear less than 1 to 1 ratio (overdrive). I did not have any luck finding his latest website URL, he regularly posts on the Bob Ford List for 55-57 Chevrolets.

Plasticman

The Muncie OD gearbox that I have seen has a narrow gear spread that (to me) does not make any sense! It has a 2.199 1st, 1.506 2nd, 3rd is 1:1, and 4th is .859 OD. That is only a 2.34 to 1 spread (1 - .859 = .141, then .141 + 2.199 = 2.34). A standard M20 wide ratio has a 2.52 or 2.56 to 1 spread (depending on year). It would be easier to just change the rear gear for that kind of difference, unless you need a new trans anyway. See Ebay list below:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=34208

The MY6 (A-833 OD) trans has a great spread that is almost identical to the 700R4 automatic trans in my 87 Vette. With the 3.09 1st gear and the .73 OD top, as long as your engine has a decent torque band, it has the best of both worlds (low 1st gear for instant oomph, and a high OD gear for cruising on the freeways at 70+)!

Still have not heard from Silverslashstreak.

Plasticman

Cruz59

Had my '59 out for this years first longer cruise (250 miles).
My mileage was around 11-12 MPG with a close ratio T10 and a 4.11 rear.
I'm definetely looking into doing this MY6 conversion for obvious reasons.

Regading the bell housing, can't you just remachine the pass. car housing to accept the larger bearing?

Cruz59

00fxd

Couldn't a guy aquire the 4th, o.d. gear from that ebay trans or would you need the cluster too?
Cruz, I suppose you could machine you b/housing for the truck bearing support but I'm finding truck b/housings are plentiful and cheap. Plus you can run an 11" clutch. The car bell housings that will take an 11" clutch are getting kinda pricey, so you happen to have that one I sure wouldn't modify it.

SWCDuke

No, no, no! You have to work in RATIOS. The total spread is 2.119/0.859 = 2.56.

If fourth was 1:1 it would be equivalent to 1-3 gearing of 2.56, 1.75, 1.16, and 1:1. The intergear ratios would be 1.46, 1.50, and 1.16. Not bad, but I would prefer a slightly wider 3-4 in trade for a slightly tigher 2-3.

The ideal gearing for a four speed would be about 2.64, 1.75, 1.28, 1.0:1 coupled to a 3.08 or 3.36 axle. The intergear ratios are 1.50, 1.37, and 1.28. This would provide a good "street" starting ratio with progressively tighter spacing as you work up through the gears and a good freeway cruise gear.

The starting ratio would be about the same as a WR Muncie/T-10, but you trade the big 3-4 gap for a bigger 1-2 gap (which would be less noticeable than the big 3-4 gap) and get a tight 3-4 gap.

Most manual tranmissions are set up with gearing that is progressively tighter as you work up through the gears, which is the way it should be.

Duke

Plasticman

Duke,

Your obviously correct, but a 2.56 spread is still the same as a wide ratio box. Bottom line is I want the wider spread of the MY6 box. I find myself going from 1st to 3rd or 2nd to 4th way too often (with the WR M20 Muncie & 3.55 rear gear)!

00fxd,

Yes you would need the cluster gear as well, so that gets expensive!

As for the bell housings, yes you can machine a pass. car housing, but as 00fxd stated, the truck bell housings are plentiful and cheap (got mine for $25 via Ebay). Only hiccup is the lack of the clutch linkage boss, but there are options there as well.

Plasticman

Cruz59

You wouldn't happend to have a picture of this special bracket you made?



I really don't know if I have that or not.
My idea was to simply remove the old gearbox and bolt in the new one, and keep the old parts to put back on the car when I have to sell it.... I didn't say that did I.....

Thanks alot!


Cruz59

Plasticman

You wouldn't happend to have a picture of this special bracket you made?


I have not "finished" the bracket yet (awaiting the new stud bracket from CC that is backordered until next week - naturally!). What I am doing is using the existing rear engine ball stud bolt boss as one location and an added bracket to the bell housing for the standard rear most bracket bolt. The rear engine ball stud bolt boss is above the bracket by about 3/4" and inward by 3/8", so I just made a flat plate with a 1/2" hole in it to weld to the top of the standard stud bracket (when it arrives), and then a 3/8" spacer to go behind the flat plate to space the plate away. I will post a picture once I weld it together.

If your engine has the 2 ball stud bosses (both front and rear 1/2" coarse threads), then you could just make a flat 1/4" thick bracket off of those 2 points with 3/8" spacers at the bosses and weld it to the existing stud bracket (the C1 ball stud location is between the 2 engine ball stud bosses). If I was going to do it again, that is the approach I would use (the bell housing mounted bracket I made is too elaborate).

Plasticman

Plasticman

Here are the photos of my brackets (minus the stud ball bracket that I am waiting for.

The first 3 photos are of the bell housing bracket. It does not have the threaded hole for the 3/8" bolt yet. I will wait until I get the stud ball bracket, mount the bell housing to a spare engine, and get it all aligned before drilling and tapping the hole.







The last 2 photos are of the bracket that will get welded to the top edge of the stud ball bracket. It also includes the 3/8" spacer that goes between this bracket and the engine stud boss.





I will post additional photos of the completed bracket, once the stud ball bracket arrives and is welded.

Hope this helps,
Plasticman

Cruz59

How much is it???? , please.......

Maybe I can persuade you to make me a similar bracket for a reasonable amout of money
Need a gift from Europe???

Then I just got to find myself a cheap truck bell housing.......
And pay $50+ for shipping to Europe... ...