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Love the progress Mark, put our best man on it and results come quickly! Looking forward to the progress. How did you like the way it drove when it arrived?
Noooooo! The Frankie the Fink method works well. I just need to ensure my touch up paint is close enough to the color.
So, where would one find some specifics about this "Frankie the Fink method" ?
Judging by your rate of progress on BaTmobile, I'm thinking maybe you were getting a bit bored having left Fatboy in Texas.
Nice work. Enjoy following along with your projects.
Love the progress Mark, put our best man on it and results come quickly! Looking forward to the progress. How did you like the way it drove when it arrived?
Thanks, Mark. It drives better than most C2 Corvettes I’ve driven. It’s very fast, but what really struck me was how tight the steering box and shifter are. It looks like a stock Muncie, buts it’s so tight and notchy. The clutch was my biggest issue. Literally off-on catching immediately right at the top of the pedal. I stalled it the first time, then left a satisfying squeal. That was the first thing I addressed, moving the engagement to the 3/4 point which made it much more manageable. I was also surprised it has a posi and when I looked, it’s a big block diff from a 72 (I am assuming bbc given the caps on the stub axles). I really can’t wait until I get it back on the road. The steering box is making me rethink my decision to add Borgeson ps.
Originally Posted by TAlvarez
So, where would one find some specifics about this "Frankie the Fink method" ?
Judging by your rate of progress on BaTmobile, I'm thinking maybe you were getting a bit bored having left Fatboy in Texas.
Nice work. Enjoy following along with your projects.
I think the Borgeson PS would be most helpful in parking lots and close quarters maneuvers. On the road the factory steering can be very precise. I was thinking of adding a Borgeson unit also.
Thanks, Mark. It drives better than most C2 Corvettes I’ve driven. It’s very fast, but what really struck me was how tight the steering box and shifter are. It looks like a stock Muncie, buts it’s so tight and notchy. The clutch was my biggest issue. Literally off-on catching immediately right at the top of the pedal. I stalled it the first time, then left a satisfying squeal. That was the first thing I addressed, moving the engagement to the 3/4 point which made it much more manageable. I was also surprised it has a posi and when I looked, it’s a big block diff from a 72 (I am assuming bbc given the caps on the stub axles). I really can’t wait until I get it back on the road. The steering box is making me rethink my decision to add Borgeson ps.
I took a couple days off to help my friend Eric build his FFR Cobra. I have to say, the quality of their kits has gotten much better since I built my coupe over 20 years ago.
We got the front and rear suspension installed. Eric bought this inflatable booth from Amazon for $800. I was surprised at the high quality! He used it to coat the aluminum panel with Raptorliner and sound deadener, but you could easily paint an entire car in here. He is considering doing that once he starts working on the body. I prepped the nose for painting. I was going to fill and smooth the edges where I bonded the side pieces in place, but decided to leave them unfinished for a number of I think good reasons. My touch up spray is slightly darker than the silver blue (this picture makes it look much darker but that’s just the shadow). I’m going to need to find a local paint supplier to custom mix some touch up paint. I had this issue with my old 911 and it proved challenging here in San Antonio. I installed rivnuts to hold the lexan and hung these temporarily. They are not adjusted or bolted in, just hanging by the bolts with no nuts. One thing I hadn’t considered, but others should. This aftermarket nose is not dimensionally identical to oem. The FIA buckets are designed for oem. To get the top that you see aligned, the bottom extends about 1/8-1/4” below the nose opening. With the grill it will be hard to see, but I will know!
Mark,
Terrific work, as always!! Give English Color and Supply a call there in SA...they have two locations. I've always had great service with their outlets here in the DFW area
Well, well. Last night I started troubleshooting the lack of tail and brake lights. The turn signals work, so I started with the fuses. Both fuses were good, but there was no power to the brake light switch (from bottom fuse) or to the taillight pin on the headlight switch (from second fuse from the bottom). I also noticed that the dome light didn’t work and the PO reported that the temp gauge didn’t work, so he replaced it with an Autometer under the dash (ugly and it hits my leg). Long story short, the fuses and fuse box contacts were corroded. I cleaned up the contacts and replaced the fuses. Suddenly, everything works, but I still need to find the original wire and test the temp gauge. Sometimes it’s the easiest things causing the biggest problems.
I wrapped up today by adding spats in the ppf color I’m using for the mustache and stripes and trial fit the grill surround.
It looks so much darker in the garage, but has a very similar metallic finish as the silver blue paint. If you look close you can see some of the existing stone chips through the ppf but this should prevent most in the future. The grill surround fit pretty well. I will need to reshape the corners but I need the grill and it is currently on back order.
