Thank you Tim!
Good stuff!
Ive learned a lot from following these threads you post..
I learned about Boeshield from you and use it regularly on my cars.
I admire your mechanical skills!

 

More discoveries (and thus progress) on the F.I. unit. The choke housing on the air meter side was filled with dry chem..........shocking. It was also discovered the #1 injector nozzle was pretty plugged.


Then this cracked nut was discovered on the #7 cylinder



Things are progressing though. The unit is just about complete, I should have the transmission back this week, and it sounds like the engine will be on the dyno this week as well!

 

Thanks for the update .
Looking forward to your next post .

 

May I suggest that you NOT rest the unit directly on a flat surface? Doing so risks damaging the brass cups attached to the nozzle blocks. On your unit, those cups extend below the mounting surface of the unit and can end up supporting the weight of the unit..... a definite no-no!

Consider using some bolts and nuts to support the FI as shown in the picture below. I use 3/8x3" bolts for this purpose:

 

Also, given the amount of mystery gunk you found inside the Cold Enrichment housing, a bleed hole, critical to proper operation, may be clogged. I suggest you use a .015" drill bit to unclog it or to ensure it wasn't clogged in the first place.

 

You point is well taken with the nozzles. The towel is double folded, but certainly understand your point Jim

I had gotten that open, so that the enrichment diaphragm was getting a vacuum signal. The inside of the choke cavity has been vapor honed, and the bleed hole is getting thoroughly cleaned. Again, I appreciate you taking the time to chime in and offer up on your observations.

Tim

 

Things keep moving along quite nicely. I was informed the engine will be on the dyno tomorrow. It will just get the cam broke in, seat the rings, and make a few pulls (shop carb, intake, and dyno headers) to validate that everything is good to go. Not going to try to chase the combination for peak power numbers. Assuming there are no issues that pop up, they will recheck valve lash, check everything else, and install the F.I. intake.

The transmission is finished. I got these photos (along with the bill) for the transmission today. That should arrive tomorrow. Then I can mock up the shifter and adjust as necessary.





Both the trans builder along with the engine builder have commented how easy the original owner was on the car. The flywheel (still retaining the original clutch) required hardly any material removal. Tom (the trans builder) was shocked how nice the trans was. Despite the asphalt / sludge inside the trans, the gears were in excellent condition, as were the shafts. No runout, no twist. The trans got synchro's, a small parts kit, bearings, and gaskets.

The F.I. unit is moving along as well. The high pressure pump is getting a new shaft along with a fresh seal. The gears looked really good. That will get confirmed with the wide band in road / load testing before I get it back from Brian.

 

The engine came off of the dyno and is ready for me to go pick it up. All went well with the project. The heads really didn't require any work to the deck surface (as pictured) and the original paint on the engine appears to have held up well. Once I get it back here, I'll determine if I am going to leave it as is, or touch it up a little.



The engine was dyno'd with a shop intake and 750 Braswell carb. I don't have specifics, but Steve mentioned he thought it peaked around 340hp. Given the carb, intake, and dyno headers......that is about what I would expect. Again, we were not chasing numbers, but it shows it's a good combination. The valve lash was set at .012 int and .018 exh cold and did not move after testing.. Should be a nice little engine for the 60.


The transmission came in, so I got the shifter installed and adjusted. Considering the mileage of the car, it's a nice shifter (or at least as nice as one of these are going to get).


The last of the parts I needed for the starter came in, so that got assembled as well.


Next week I'll chase after the engine, and pick up a car I have a large amount of history with

 

[QUOTE]
[QUOTE=jim lockwood;1609559434
]May I suggest that you NOT rest the unit directly on a flat surface? Doing so risks damaging the brass cups attached to the nozzle blocks. On your unit, those cups extend below the mounting surface of the unit and can end up supporting the weight of the unit..... a definite no-no!

Consider using some bolts and nuts to support the FI as shown in the picture below. I use 3/8x3" bolts for this purpose:

[QUOTE]

I totally agree! It is a very good idea to NOT set the unit on a surface with the nozzles/cups protruding. Do not set the unit (with nozzles installed) on a flat surface like this.



When I was doing sheetmetal and structural repairs on B52s at Tinker AFB, I made a fixture for holding and working on FI units.
I can run the hi-press pump to observe for leaks and check nozzle discharge. Then I can drain and collect gas from the pan.















The fixture has an "arm" on each end which allows me to hold the fuel meter and air meter securely to work on them.

 

This past Sunday, I ran down to AMS to pick up the engine.
https://www.amsracingengines.com/

First of all, I cannot say enough for the way Steve at AMS treats me. He mentioned this build was "fun" for him, as nobody had even been in this engine before (especially considering it's age). He went on to say they found all of the inspection / labeling marks to be interesting, and how they survived the cleaning process. While some of the pics I am loading up here are redundant, this is the best time to document it for someone who is restoring a Flint built engine in this era.






The inside of the engine cleaned up nicely. A before and after pic



I elected not to dust any paint in on the engine. My vision for the car is a preservation and mechanical refresh. I stripped the fresher paint off of the oil pan and clutch inspection cover, just to play the part of everything else. I'll be the first to point out some people my question my decision, but once you start painting....where do you stop? In my opinion, this is playing the part of the car. One of the items I purchased for the car was a 493 water pump. I had to knock that back in order to mimic some unrestored example I have seen. While it's not undetectable, once in the car and all of the accessories are installed, it should blend in.


I was kind of chomping at the bit to get it installed. As I have mentioned in other projects, this is the part of the process I really enjoy. A few hours later, the engine, clutch, and transmission are all installed. Like many clutch install's, I found it necessary to utilize an adjustable clutch for ball to optimize the clutch fork geometry. It makes a noticeable improvement in pedal pressure. I keep one of these in stock, as I would hate to wait around for something so insignificant, yet so inaccessible. The clutch fork angle is text book with the adjustable ball.




Here is the dyno sheet. Once again, this engine is most all stock. The only real deviation are to connecting rods with are from Eagle. That was a choice strictly for durability. The KB pistons yield a compression ratio of 10.5:1. Stock Duntov 097 cam with Crower Coolface lifters. No port work, no hidden tricks. As I have touched on before, we were not chasing numbers here, just validating the package. Steve spun the engine to 5500 for testing, and it is still building power. No real sense going any further, as the combination is decidedly different than as installed. I will add that I am happy with how flat the torque curve is


I'll keep hanging parts today, and just about finished. Brian has the F.I. unit completed, and is going through the distributor as of last night.

 

Very nice work , and well thought out .

 

This is just a reality check type of post. This is not always fun and gratifying. Case in point.........start filling the cooling system, to only have it leak from the backing plate

For those who are not familiar with C1's, the engine mount is integrated with the water pump mounting.

Worse yet, I really did not see a smoking gun. I'll know tomorrow if I solved it. On the bright side, I didn't go and hang everything else on the engine!

 

I have a lot of respect and admiration for the effort to which you are going to preserve the authenticity of that engine!!!

Well done!!!!!!

 

I echo this as well! Tremendous. Thanks for continuing to share!

 

The water pump is sealed up and the cooling system if filled, so I can keep moving forward. I neglected to post up some pics of the distributor. As one can imagine, the inside of that was just as dirty as the engine.


So......everything is disassembled, cleaned, and checked


The bushings were in really good shape, as was the main shaft


That is all reassembled with a single wire pick up from M&H. The unit should be on the mule car later this week.

On a different note, my Dad came across an NOS set of side cove spears. Some of the chrome items on the car has aged more than I'd like to see.


These should clean up nicely. Obviously, there is an extra


Rest easy, no mouse was harmed or displaced as a result of this project. The wrappers were a bunch of confetti


Last but not least, I am looking for a nicer outside rear view mirror. If any of you have a really nice used (better than this) or NOS unit, I'd be interested


Getting closer...........

 

Thanks guys!

 

It occurred to me yesterday, I never detailed the fact there was one defined incorrect part I sourced for the car, and one of the more expensive pieces nonetheless. Through the car's ownership history, it passed through one of the large Corvette dealers, and it "lost" the right side fuel injection specific exhaust manifold. While the manifold that was substituted was correct by casting number, it was not an original F.I. manifold. It was just welded up (the choke heat tube) Being the idiot I am, I get blinded by some of these details, and lose all sense of financial responsibility.




Ironically, I did find a perfectly dated manifold (February 12th), cleaned it, and installed it.

 

Thanks for continuing to share. The condition that you see in the chrome and such is much like my 1960...the spears were just about identical, but my mirror is in much better shape. My Dad bought a bunch of NOS parts in the early 80s that I have stashed away which include the spears, cove moldings and trunk and hood emblems. One day they will get installed. I look forward to seeing the progress that you are making!

 

I am patiently waiting to get the fuel unit and distributor back. It is waiting for it's turn on the mule car for wide band tuning and overall drivability. I must say once again, I am very lucky to have the partners I work with in projects like this, because the turnaround times are short in duration. Everything is back together, reconnected, tested (as much as one can without a running car).

I tested the speedometer / odometer this morning and that checked out (remember I did not have the opportunity to drive this). Everything electrically has checked out, and Tracey stopped by to help me install the hood. All the fluids are filled, including a fresh load of fuel.




So I embarked on cleaning the original "107" ignition coil. These are unique to fuel injection cars as I understand it. It had an amount of surface corrosion, so some repeated navel jelly application and discreet wiping has left me with this. I'd say it measures up to the rest of the car

 

Is the top tank rad a De Witt ?