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I made them specifically for my 1964, but they are just 1”wide 90 degree tabs. I’m not sure how the 65-67 grills attach, but if they use fiberglass tabs molded into the nose then these would work.
The front end on my 65 does not have them, so I was wondering if the one piece 65-67 grilles did not use them?
I have a different view of the Edelbrock/Carter carbs. I have found them to be very reliable and hold a tune really well. The only downside I have seen is at the Dyno. The Holley would almost always give you about 5 extra HP compared to the Edelbrock or Carter. For racers the Holley is a hands down winner. For street driving I like the Carter design. Personal choice I know. I got to know them back in the early 1990's and I am still a fan.
My buddy has a 1971 Challenger with a 340 4 speed, it is pristine. I went to the Dyno test with him. The Dyno operator told him after the test that he had never seen a carburetor put out such a perfect fuel curve. He had a Carter on it. It was not a month later he told me he was switching to a Demon Carb??? When I asked why he said he thinks he will make more power. I mentioned the perfect fuel curve on the Dyno? It fell on deaf ears, he thought it would make more power with a Holley. After that he switched to Fast Fuel Injection. Some just like to tinker but also what you are comfortable tuning.
I, too, am a fan of the AFB. I've rebuilt dozens of them, and each has performed flawlessly for years thereafter. IMHO, it's an example of brilliant engineering. Among its many virtues is that I've never seen one leak fuel externally. For me, that alone is worth a little more than 5 HP.
I have a different view of the Edelbrock/Carter carbs. I have found them to be very reliable and hold a tune really well. The only downside I have seen is at the Dyno. The Holley would almost always give you about 5 extra HP compared to the Edelbrock or Carter. For racers the Holley is a hands down winner. For street driving I like the Carter design. Personal choice I know. I got to know them back in the early 1990's and I am still a fan.
My buddy has a 1971 Challenger with a 340 4 speed, it is pristine. I went to the Dyno test with him. The Dyno operator told him after the test that he had never seen a carburetor put out such a perfect fuel curve. He had a Carter on it. It was not a month later he told me he was switching to a Demon Carb??? When I asked why he said he thinks he will make more power. I mentioned the perfect fuel curve on the Dyno? It fell on deaf ears, he thought it would make more power with a Holley. After that he switched to Fast Fuel Injection. Some just like to tinker but also what you are comfortable tuning.
Originally Posted by keith ragan
Hey Mark, Are you planning on installing a front bumper?
Originally Posted by SJW
I, too, am a fan of the AFB. I've rebuilt dozens of them, and each has performed flawlessly for years thereafter. IMHO, it's an example of brilliant engineering. Among its many virtues is that I've never seen one leak fuel externally. For me, that alone is worth a little more than 5 HP.
Live well,
SJW
I believe my bias is simply based on familiarity. On this car, when I pulled the air cleaner the carb was dirty and my bias said replace it with a Holley clone. Even GM didn’t use AFB style carbs on their high performance models. That said, my engine is closer to an L79 than an L88! The carb runs a bit rich, but I’ll keep it at least for awhile and take a shot at tuning it better. I also have another concern that there is no vacuum advance which is part of the issue.
Keith, I’m not planning on installing a front bumper.
Cool, I think it will look better without the bumper, most times I like the front bumper on the car but would look out of place on your car IMHO. Once again you are doing that car justice and making it as good as it can be!
I believe my bias is simply based on familiarity. On this car, when I pulled the air cleaner the carb was dirty and my bias said replace it with a Holley clone. Even GM didn’t use AFB style carbs on their high performance models.
Your bias understandable Mark, as we all have them. I'm sure I have a bias toward the AFBs and various Rochesters due to familiarity. I have far less experience with, or knowledge of Holleys.
You might be interested to know that GM used the AFB on plenty of high performance models, including the 340 HP Corvettes, 396 Chevelles, 409 Chevys, 427 Z11 Chevys, 389 GTOs, Buick Wildcats and Rivieras, etc.
It was crazy fun! Like most of my cars, someone made me an offer I couldn’t refuse.
I had a bit of time today so I replaced the scary glass fuel filter and rubber fuel lines with hard line and an oem fuel filter. So I now have hard line from the fuel pump to the carb.
I do have a question for you AFB guys. The PCV valve is connected to the front of the carb. I noticed there is also a plug on the rear of the carb. Can I cap the hose nipple on the front and replace the plug on the back with a 3/8 hose nipple for the PCV? I assume the plug in the back is normally for power brakes. It would certainly clean up my hoses.
Please recall this mess. Replaced with this set up. Still need to connect up the PCV valve.
I do have a question for you AFB guys. The PCV valve is connected to the front of the carb. I noticed there is also a plug on the rear of the carb. Can I cap the hose nipple on the front and replace the plug on the back with a 3/8 hose nipple for the PCV? I assume the plug in the back is normally for power brakes. It would certainly clean up my hoses.
Easy enough to confirm with a vacuum gauge or a fingertip, but I'd be surprised if it wouldn't work. It's where the PCV valve on the '63 340 HP cars is hard-mounted via a R/A fitting. Here's a pic of mine:
Mark that front runner set up on the front of the engine is a small fortune and does have a non period correct vibe to it. Are you planning on any appearance changes to the engine as far as the valve covers and air cleaner go? Not a suggestion just asking for your thoughts.
Mark that front runner set up on the front of the engine is a small fortune and does have a non period correct vibe to it. Are you planning on any appearance changes to the engine as far as the valve covers and air cleaner go? Not a suggestion just asking for your thoughts.
You're not kidding on the expense! I bought the matching PS bracket with pump and picked it up here in San Antonio for my Borgeson install later this year. It was almost $800. It’s also one of the only serpentine setups that doesn’t require drilled heads to install.
As for other changes, I’m open for any suggestions engine bay wise.
I just realized the PCV valve on this car is in the passenger VC. I’ve always used the driver side VC (not that it matters). That simplifies the whole issue.
The VCs are not baffled and the engine is a quart low. Both correlate and I’ll fix this today.
Today is the day I cut Lexan. I’ll post the outcome of that adventure later this afternoon.
Turns out the hardest part of this whole ordeal was trying to get the protective covering off the Lexan. I tried heat, hot water, and a small goo gone sample on a scrap piece (horrible, don’t use it, crazes the plastic). I took me almost 3 hours to get 90% off of the passenger side and I haven’t started on the driver side, yet. I think it is old and the heat used to shape the covers baked it on. So, pay no attention to the remaining stubborn pieces you will see in the pictures! I’m going to soak it overnight and try to get the rest off when I wet sand the edges in the morning.
I set it in place and used the tape to mark my cut lines with about 1/16” to spare. The cut kerf needs to be in the orange tape, so I used the green masking tape to establish that line. The jig worked great using a plexiglass blade in my saber saw it was like cutting butter. Once cut, I’m 1/16-1/8” off, so perfect! When the left side is aligned the right side hangs out a bit. And vice versa on the right side alignment which tells me I can sand to finish. I used the orange tape to mark my sand to lines. I used 60 grit in my palm sander with a very light touch to get close. Almost there. Then 120 grit to hit the lines. Looks pretty good from underneath, but this is where I pushed all the misalignment. It’s still a snug fit, but I was able to mark and drill the mounting holes. And final trial install. I’m going to soak it overnight to try and remove the last bit of liner and wet sand all the edges in the morning, then a few pieces of ppf to finish it off and I then get to start all over again!
Mark,
At first glance, I thought a seagull had deposited its' load on your headlight cover...best of luck getting that off. The entire front end looks SOOOOO much better
Well, well. Last night I started troubleshooting the lack of tail and brake lights. The turn signals work, so I started with the fuses. Both fuses were good, but there was no power to the brake light switch (from bottom fuse) or to the taillight pin on the headlight switch (from second fuse from the bottom). I also noticed that the dome light didn’t work and the PO reported that the temp gauge didn’t work, so he replaced it with an Autometer under the dash (ugly and it hits my leg). Long story short, the fuses and fuse box contacts were corroded. I cleaned up the contacts and replaced the fuses. Suddenly, everything works, but I still need to find the original wire and test the temp gauge. Sometimes it’s the easiest things causing the biggest problems.
I wrapped up today by adding spats in the ppf color I’m using for the mustache and stripes and trial fit the grill surround.
It looks so much darker in the garage, but has a very similar metallic finish as the silver blue paint. If you look close you can see some of the existing stone chips through the ppf but this should prevent most in the future. The grill surround fit pretty well. I will need to reshape the corners but I need the grill and it is currently on back order.
No doubt about it …. You have some serious skills. Looking great!
