Who has the fastest C3??
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Who has the fastest C3??
OK...I have been doing quite a bit of mods to the ole 76......I am hoping to run in the mid 12's this spring---(383/440hp, 4-speed, 3:36 rear, 3000lbs) Just curious what 0-60 or 1/4 mile time everyone is running???? Post your time/speed and motor/trns/rearend/weight setup!!!
#2
Senior Member since 1492
1. Big632, I think he runs 7's
2. 427Hotrod runs 9's
3. 69 N.O.X.Ratt...to be determined, proably in the 8's
above for the 1/4 mile.
2. 427Hotrod runs 9's
3. 69 N.O.X.Ratt...to be determined, proably in the 8's
above for the 1/4 mile.
#3
Melting Slicks
My best Sea-Level corrected ET (Using NHRA factors) is 11.37 @ 121mph. Full street trim, 245/45/17" radials (no DR's), 3530lbs. Not the fastest, but quick enough to enjoy, I drove 700 miles last week.
#5
Team Owner
I'm having some serious issues with my setup right now, but when everything is worked out, I should be able to consistently run 10's.. I might add a 150 shot of NO2 and would like to get into 9's on spray...
Well, first I've got to get my setup to run right before I can think in adding spray...
Well, first I've got to get my setup to run right before I can think in adding spray...
#6
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Maymyvetteliveforevr
How did you drop all that weight oregonsharkman ? Just curious.
Here's why my car was so light:
1) Wheels & tires: Stock wheels& tires weight 55 lbs each = 220 lbs in wheels and tires: My rear street slicks and Convo Pro wheels weight 40 lbs each and my front skinnies+wheels weight 20 lbs each = 120 lbs..
Total weight savings for wheels and tires: 100 lbs (worth more than that because its rotating mass)
2) spare tire carrier and spare tire removed: 60 - 65 lbs weight saving
3) composite rear spring (30+ lbs saving)
4) Heater assembly removed (15 lbs)
5) Lightweight seats: (80's style fiberglass seats instead of heavy '68 original seats). Now I actually have a even lighter race seat..
Total weight saving for seats was over 30 lbs
6) No popup headlights. Headlights on my car are in a lightweight assembly in the grille (10 lbs saving)
7) Hood pins instead of hood hardware 3 - 4 lbs saving
8) Carbon fiber driveshaft and halfshafts (on my old setup) This was only a few lbs saving, but rotating mass is worth more than the actual weight saving...
On my old 2950 lbs setup, I even had iron heads... With aluminum heads, I would've saved another 50 lbs and would've weighted 2900 lbs...
Haven't weighted my new setup, but I assume that the car gained about 50 lbs or so... 6-point rollbar installed, heavy duty rear end, half shaft and axle kit, automatic tranny instead of manual tranny etc.etc...
#7
Mine isn't the fastest but it doesn't do to bad for reliable daily driver. It runs mid 11's @ > 125 MPH in street trim with stock rims and crappy BFG radial T/As (2 sec 60'). It should be in the tens with slicks or maybe drag radials but I feel like I need to beef up the axials and rear before I launch with sticky tires.
#8
Team Owner
Originally Posted by ZL1powr
Mine isn't the fastest but it doesn't do to bad for reliable daily driver. It runs mid 11's @ > 125 MPH in street trim with stock rims and crappy BFG radial T/As (2 sec 60'). It should be in the tens with slicks or maybe drag radials but I feel like I need to beef up the axials and rear before I launch with sticky tires.
#10
Team Owner
Originally Posted by 71coupe
2000A4 (or whatever his user name is) has a pretty quick SB that runs deep in the 10's
#11
Team Owner
Why did you build your motor with such low HP? Just kidding. You'll have a good time with a 383
#12
Racer
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Little Italy MI
Posts: 300
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I actually have a video of his car running in the mid 9's... (9.58 I believe)
2004's set up how he is able to run mid 9's. I have been folllowing
both of ur threads on the 1428 or 1354 (hope i have the kit #'s right)and am interested in doing the same to mine. Are u running offset
T Arms and what kind and size tires. Also do u have stock carrier or the modified 12 from Toms differentials. I'D appreciate some feedback.
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Maymyvetteliveforevr
How did you drop all that weight oregonsharkman ? Just curious.
No A/c, no pwr window/ door locks/ or any other pwr option (except pwr brakes and pwr steering),manual 4-speed.
Changes:
pwrmaster xs starter weighs only 9 lbs
aluminum radiator w/dual 11" spals
383/ with edel rpm aluminum heads
aluminum intake and carb
stripped hood insulation, extra carpet insulation and other weighty crap
lost the rear spare
lost the radio---(that thing weighs about 10lbs with speaker!!)---replaced it with switch panel.
other various stripping that I can't think of right now.
#15
Team Owner
Originally Posted by 77TSi-meez
GrandSport could u share ur rear suspension assembly in detail and or
2004's set up how he is able to run mid 9's. I have been folllowing
both of ur threads on the 1428 or 1354 (hope i have the kit #'s right)and am interested in doing the same to mine. Are u running offset
T Arms and what kind and size tires. Also do u have stock carrier or the modified 12 from Toms differentials. I'D appreciate some feedback.
2004's set up how he is able to run mid 9's. I have been folllowing
both of ur threads on the 1428 or 1354 (hope i have the kit #'s right)and am interested in doing the same to mine. Are u running offset
T Arms and what kind and size tires. Also do u have stock carrier or the modified 12 from Toms differentials. I'D appreciate some feedback.
I'm using 12-bolt internals in my modified stock differential case. The half shafts are huge and use 1480 series u-joints (many times stronger than the stock 1350 series). The axles are 32 spline axles (Tom's axle kit) and should be good to over 1200 HP... My rear spring is a narrowed 550 lbs/inch composite spring to reduce excessive sqatting (which could cause damage).. My driveshaft is a chromoly shaft from PST (Precision Shaft Technology) with 1350 series u-joints.. Tranny and differential yoke are of course 1350 series too... The entire rear setup should be good for over 1000 HP..
Forgot to mention.. The trailing arms are Offset Trailing arms and I'm running 28 x 13.5 - 15 ET Street Slicks
In order to fit the big tires without sticking out, I had to remove the rear sway bar, install a narrowed spring and had some minor curring on the frame done (where it comes down to the trailing arm mount..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; 04-10-2005 at 12:03 PM.
#17
Senior Member since 1492
Originally Posted by PRNDL
it's a 67 ("C2")
Ok, you tell him he can't post here.
#18
Safety Car
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Don't know what he did.. but here's what I did.. Don't know what my car weights right now after changing my entire setup, but my old setup weighted 2950 lbs...
Here's why my car was so light:
1) Wheels & tires: Stock wheels& tires weight 55 lbs each = 220 lbs in wheels and tires: My rear street slicks and Convo Pro wheels weight 40 lbs each and my front skinnies+wheels weight 20 lbs each = 120 lbs..
Total weight savings for wheels and tires: 100 lbs (worth more than that because its rotating mass)
2) spare tire carrier and spare tire removed: 60 - 65 lbs weight saving
3) composite rear spring (30+ lbs saving)
4) Heater assembly removed (15 lbs)
5) Lightweight seats: (80's style fiberglass seats instead of heavy '68 original seats). Now I actually have a even lighter race seat..
Total weight saving for seats was over 30 lbs
6) No popup headlights. Headlights on my car are in a lightweight assembly in the grille (10 lbs saving)
7) Hood pins instead of hood hardware 3 - 4 lbs saving
8) Carbon fiber driveshaft and halfshafts (on my old setup) This was only a few lbs saving, but rotating mass is worth more than the actual weight saving...
On my old 2950 lbs setup, I even had iron heads... With aluminum heads, I would've saved another 50 lbs and would've weighted 2900 lbs...
Haven't weighted my new setup, but I assume that the car gained about 50 lbs or so... 6-point rollbar installed, heavy duty rear end, half shaft and axle kit, automatic tranny instead of manual tranny etc.etc...
Here's why my car was so light:
1) Wheels & tires: Stock wheels& tires weight 55 lbs each = 220 lbs in wheels and tires: My rear street slicks and Convo Pro wheels weight 40 lbs each and my front skinnies+wheels weight 20 lbs each = 120 lbs..
Total weight savings for wheels and tires: 100 lbs (worth more than that because its rotating mass)
2) spare tire carrier and spare tire removed: 60 - 65 lbs weight saving
3) composite rear spring (30+ lbs saving)
4) Heater assembly removed (15 lbs)
5) Lightweight seats: (80's style fiberglass seats instead of heavy '68 original seats). Now I actually have a even lighter race seat..
Total weight saving for seats was over 30 lbs
6) No popup headlights. Headlights on my car are in a lightweight assembly in the grille (10 lbs saving)
7) Hood pins instead of hood hardware 3 - 4 lbs saving
8) Carbon fiber driveshaft and halfshafts (on my old setup) This was only a few lbs saving, but rotating mass is worth more than the actual weight saving...
On my old 2950 lbs setup, I even had iron heads... With aluminum heads, I would've saved another 50 lbs and would've weighted 2900 lbs...
Haven't weighted my new setup, but I assume that the car gained about 50 lbs or so... 6-point rollbar installed, heavy duty rear end, half shaft and axle kit, automatic tranny instead of manual tranny etc.etc...