It's official: NOTHING is ever easy (seats)
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
It's official: NOTHING is ever easy (seats)
So, I notice back a while that my seat tracks had some rust and a
small hole in the front of one side. Remove seat, flip over, wirebrush ...
cut some steel to weld under the front 'feet'. Then I realize that I
better remove the tracks to prevent a fire. Easy enough. Then I
remember that a lower seat back adjuster was loose. To get in there, I
need to remove the seat back. Two screws ... one actually came out.
Then I drive to Wallymart to buy a new B+D corded drill to 'remove'
the stuck pivot screw. Done. Then, unhook and remove lower seat
cover/foam. I notice the seat frame is distorted. After removing all the springs
and beating with a hammer, it was ready to clean up and fix the seat
adjuster. Well, actually both were rusted good. So, I fabbed up some
nice pieces from stainless stock, drilled and welded a nut in place, then
welded these into the space where I removed the rotted steel.
Now, I notice the side hinge bars are loose on the seat back and the
seat release strap (goes to the button) is broken. So, remove the
release button/strap assembly, remove the upper molding, take off
the cover/foam. Now, I see the lower frame of the back is starting to
crack. I fabbed up some stainless strips and add these across the
bottom for extra strength - tying into the weld nuts for the top
adjuster bolt - done. Then I removed all the springs in the back to bend
them back to 'springy' instead of 'saggy'.
I'll tell you one thing, I now know the ins and outs of the seats.
However, I wish I hadn't disassembled EVERY piece of this seat.
It started out welding a piece onto the tracks.
So now, where to go ? At this point, I feel I can take it all apart
again in 15 minutes - while sleeping. However, it seems opportune
to take this time to 'get it done'. I'm thinking new foam, leather-like
covers, new hinge hardware, and all new adjuster hardware.
Even on the cheap, the 2 seats are gonna run me $300.
I'm not buying a release strap. I will try to weld that one back together.
Anyone know where to get the hardware (pivot bolts/bushings and adjusters) cheap ?
The adjusters at Zip are nearly $45 for the 2 seats. Yes, they all need replacing.
PS - I STILL haven't drilled and welded the track pieces that I originally
set out to do.
small hole in the front of one side. Remove seat, flip over, wirebrush ...
cut some steel to weld under the front 'feet'. Then I realize that I
better remove the tracks to prevent a fire. Easy enough. Then I
remember that a lower seat back adjuster was loose. To get in there, I
need to remove the seat back. Two screws ... one actually came out.
Then I drive to Wallymart to buy a new B+D corded drill to 'remove'
the stuck pivot screw. Done. Then, unhook and remove lower seat
cover/foam. I notice the seat frame is distorted. After removing all the springs
and beating with a hammer, it was ready to clean up and fix the seat
adjuster. Well, actually both were rusted good. So, I fabbed up some
nice pieces from stainless stock, drilled and welded a nut in place, then
welded these into the space where I removed the rotted steel.
Now, I notice the side hinge bars are loose on the seat back and the
seat release strap (goes to the button) is broken. So, remove the
release button/strap assembly, remove the upper molding, take off
the cover/foam. Now, I see the lower frame of the back is starting to
crack. I fabbed up some stainless strips and add these across the
bottom for extra strength - tying into the weld nuts for the top
adjuster bolt - done. Then I removed all the springs in the back to bend
them back to 'springy' instead of 'saggy'.
I'll tell you one thing, I now know the ins and outs of the seats.
However, I wish I hadn't disassembled EVERY piece of this seat.
It started out welding a piece onto the tracks.
So now, where to go ? At this point, I feel I can take it all apart
again in 15 minutes - while sleeping. However, it seems opportune
to take this time to 'get it done'. I'm thinking new foam, leather-like
covers, new hinge hardware, and all new adjuster hardware.
Even on the cheap, the 2 seats are gonna run me $300.
I'm not buying a release strap. I will try to weld that one back together.
Anyone know where to get the hardware (pivot bolts/bushings and adjusters) cheap ?
The adjusters at Zip are nearly $45 for the 2 seats. Yes, they all need replacing.
PS - I STILL haven't drilled and welded the track pieces that I originally
set out to do.
Last edited by NHvette; 07-12-2005 at 04:33 PM.
#2
Race Director
Seems like I got my seat back adjusters off of ebay and they were around $20 or so. Let me see if I can dig the seller up.
#3
Race Director
Upper Seat Back Adjusters
This was all I could find that he currently has on EBay, but I got the upper and lower from him and they work perfectly. Shoot him an email.
This was all I could find that he currently has on EBay, but I got the upper and lower from him and they work perfectly. Shoot him an email.
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the offer, Ed.
I like the way you think.
Since you don't really see the uppers, the furniture parts might work fine.
Still, I think I will buy new ones, since I'm dishing out the cash
for all the other stuff.
I like the way you think.
Since you don't really see the uppers, the furniture parts might work fine.
Still, I think I will buy new ones, since I'm dishing out the cash
for all the other stuff.
#6
I got lucky...seat backs were good..but drivers side bottom had to be repaired...also added small gussets to prevent bottom spring sag and added gussets to rear at adjusters..some years back,my drivers (slide) broke in half while autocrossing....welded it back then...still holding...
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I took Ed's advice and started looking through the old furniture here at work.
I found a nice set of solid steel desk adjusters that will clean
up nicely.
Here is one that I chucked up in the drill, cleaned it up with
some 80 grit paper, and clear-coated. It's got a few deep
scratches I didn't get out, but I think it will work great.
... a little ad for work, too: www.terason.com
I found a nice set of solid steel desk adjusters that will clean
up nicely.
Here is one that I chucked up in the drill, cleaned it up with
some 80 grit paper, and clear-coated. It's got a few deep
scratches I didn't get out, but I think it will work great.
... a little ad for work, too: www.terason.com
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Well, I'm an NCRS member - but my vette ain't.
These babies are more solid than the originals that
bent and twisted when I removed them.
Plus, I think these look better than the originals.
Bubba rules !!
Next time your up my way Ed ... I'll pick up the tab.
These babies are more solid than the originals that
bent and twisted when I removed them.
Plus, I think these look better than the originals.
Bubba rules !!
Next time your up my way Ed ... I'll pick up the tab.
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2001
Location: May help you? You can sure as hell try!
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Originally Posted by Ed T
I am wondering how many other folks are turning their office furniture upside down after reading this.